04-14-2019, 11:42 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: St. Louis MO
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Carpet removal and MLV install help request
I ordered 8 sheets of Luxury Liner Pro (mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam) and after searching the forum, reading several posts, and watching a few Youtube videos I'm putting in a final call for install tips, tricks, and resource recommendations on:
- Pulling the carpet (order of operations, watch outs etc)
- Removing the center console trim (where to start, watch outs, etc)
- Installing the MLV (How close to go to the edge, fitment, direction of layout, things to avoid, etc)
My plan is to install MLV/CCF in all the doors and on the floor, leveraging Velcro to attach, allowing removal as needed in the future. *note, I've already installed sound skins CDL in the doors and will apply to the floor before putting the the LLP.
While I can pull a door panel in about 6 minutes now, I haven't pulled any other panels in the truck or the carpet and I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to make the job easier. From other posts, including one by LiquidMantis, I basically understand pulling the carpet as: disconnect the battery, pull the seats, console, sill trim, and kick panels. The carpet is held in with some velcro against the firewall and plastic stretchers that clip into retaining clips in the sills. Thoughts on additional steps or watch outs would be great as well.
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04-15-2019, 07:29 AM
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#2
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I've got nothing helpful to add, but I'm following along...
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04-15-2019, 10:46 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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I remember following a few youtube videos and pictures on here when removing the rear carpet to add CDL tiles, but I can't point you to exactly what I used as I don't actually remember.
Just some general tips:
1. Unhook the battery before removing the seats or any other electronic plugs
2. Bag and Tag everything you can within reason.
3. Take reference pictures of stuff with your phone for re-installation (Or making a DIY post here )
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04-15-2019, 11:27 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Denver
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Real Name: Nick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamsOfDirt
I ordered 8 sheets of Luxury Liner Pro (mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam) and after searching the forum, reading several posts, and watching a few Youtube videos I'm putting in a final call for install tips, tricks, and resource recommendations on:
- Pulling the carpet (order of operations, watch outs etc)
- Removing the center console trim (where to start, watch outs, etc)
- Installing the MLV (How close to go to the edge, fitment, direction of layout, things to avoid, etc)
My plan is to install MLV/CCF in all the doors and on the floor, leveraging Velcro to attach, allowing removal as needed in the future. *note, I've already installed sound skins CDL in the doors and will apply to the floor before putting the the LLP.
While I can pull a door panel in about 6 minutes now, I haven't pulled any other panels in the truck or the carpet and I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to make the job easier. From other posts, including one by LiquidMantis, I basically understand pulling the carpet as: disconnect the battery, pull the seats, console, sill trim, and kick panels. The carpet is held in with some velcro against the firewall and plastic stretchers that clip into retaining clips in the sills. Thoughts on additional steps or watch outs would be great as well.
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Be careful with the thickness of Luxury Liner Pro in the door panels. I ordered enough CDL tiles and Luxury Liner Pro to do all my doors and stopped after one door to think this through a bit more. A couple thoughts after my install... LLP is very thick and you will definitely run into problems with getting the door panel to fit back on there. That DOESN'T mean it won't work because believe me - I made it work. You'll have to cut more away than you'd like, surprisingly so in the middle of the panel where your vapor barrier is. I had to cut a hole (in my LLP) in the middle of the vapor barrier area because I didn't think it was going to push anything too far back into where the window stores when rolled down and I was wrong and put a nice scratch into the window. Get additional clips for the re-installation. As you're test fitting (and even just generally over time) the clips lose their 'bite' and it helps greatly to have some fresh clips, especially given the size of LLP. This is a lot of random advice but feel free to PM with any questions as I just used this product to do the same thing very recently. I want to do my floors as well so I am excited to see your progress and any tips with that aspect of this project I can gleam any info about!
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04-15-2019, 01:36 PM
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#5
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How much of an overall noise difference did just the doors make?
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04-15-2019, 06:25 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: St. Louis MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llDemonll
How much of an overall noise difference did just the doors make?
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Applying the SoundSkins CDL to the doors reduced the rattle in the speakers, improved the sound, and gave the doors a nice solid sound/feel. There was no noise reduction -- that's where the MLV / Luxury Liner comes in. I'll keep you posted.
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04-15-2019, 08:28 PM
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#7
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It may be too thick for the floors. I use CCF and Radiant Barrier and couldn't put back any of the covers for the seat bolts.
For the doors, I found that if you lay it it the door panel and cut to fit for that, it is much easier that trying to cut to fit on the actual door itself.
You will want to stay within the boundaries of the panel clips. Going around them may not allow the door panel to go back on.
Take care when removing the rear quarter panels near the back seats. The areas where the reclining mechanism and seat belts are is hard to work around. You may have issues getting those panels back on if you do the wheel wells. I found that it pushed the panels out a bit and made putting in the rear floor pan panels a challenge.
Remove the foam blocks on the back side of the front door panels. You may need to add some padding to those spots, but you will never get the panel back on if you leave them on.
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04-15-2019, 10:00 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: St. Louis MO
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigger
It may be too thick for the floors. I use CCF and Radiant Barrier and couldn't put back any of the covers for the seat bolts.
For the doors, I found that if you lay it it the door panel and cut to fit for that, it is much easier that trying to cut to fit on the actual door itself.
You will want to stay within the boundaries of the panel clips. Going around them may not allow the door panel to go back on.
Take care when removing the rear quarter panels near the back seats. The areas where the reclining mechanism and seat belts are is hard to work around. You may have issues getting those panels back on if you do the wheel wells. I found that it pushed the panels out a bit and made putting in the rear floor pan panels a challenge.
Remove the foam blocks on the back side of the front door panels. You may need to add some padding to those spots, but you will never get the panel back on if you leave them on.
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Tigger thank you for the specific tips! These are great. I have to admit I had your build thread up last night reading through things.
Thanks again!
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04-22-2020, 09:27 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 75
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This is my COVID-19 project while I work from home. Mostly weekends, but a little here and there during the day, when work is light.
I started with the doors and hatch. CLD (Dynamat Xtreme) at 25% coverage, CCF and MLV. I will need to upgrade my hatch struts, but not a huge deal.
I then removed the entire interior panels, floor, carpet, center console, seats, and finally the headliner.
I did CLD (again 25% coverage) and 1" hydrophobic melamine foam on the roof and put the headliner back on.
Floors have CLD (again 25% coverage).
Right now, I'm working on the floors starting from the driver side with CCF and MLV.
I can post some pics later if people are interested.
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04-22-2020, 03:19 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: LA
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoRunnuh
This is my COVID-19 project while I work from home. Mostly weekends, but a little here and there during the day, when work is light.
I started with the doors and hatch. CLD (Dynamat Xtreme) at 25% coverage, CCF and MLV. I will need to upgrade my hatch struts, but not a huge deal.
I then removed the entire interior panels, floor, carpet, center console, seats, and finally the headliner.
I did CLD (again 25% coverage) and 1" hydrophobic melamine foam on the roof and put the headliner back on.
Floors have CLD (again 25% coverage).
Right now, I'm working on the floors starting from the driver side with CCF and MLV.
I can post some pics later if people are interested.
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That would be great if you could. Any issues you ran into?
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04-22-2020, 03:32 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wauconda, IL
Posts: 98
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If you run into a couple bolts that look like these in back area would you let me know where they belong? They seem like they were maybe important.
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04-22-2020, 03:48 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbermann
If you run into a couple bolts that look like these in back area would you let me know where they belong? They seem like they were maybe important.
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Think those go behind the cargo net holders
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04-22-2020, 04:50 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
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CDL 25% coverage since it doesn’t necessarily block sound. Can also be added strategically to door panels to give it a more substantial premium feeling. MLV to block sound. Good luck
Another cool product to keep weight down and future repairs accessible is 3M thinsulate ( 3M™ Thinsulate™ Acoustic Insulation SM600L | 3M United States). It’s used in a lot of vehicles to reduce NVH while maintaining weight reduction/mpg goals. I’ve seen it either glued or sonic bonded to almost any panel.
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04-22-2020, 04:58 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wauconda, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXTRDPRO
Think those go behind the cargo net holders
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You mean here?
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04-22-2020, 08:07 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbermann
You mean here?
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No the upper ones. That the mesh cargo net go around. They pop out then behind them I want to say there are screws like that.
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