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Old 04-18-2019, 06:13 PM #1
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Toyota JBL Amplifier Kit from infotainment.com

I want to upgrade speakers, but everything I have been reading has been mixed reviews. It looks like its not really worth it if you're not going to install an amplifier. I want some good base, but I don't need blow your doors off base. I mainly listen to Rock on SiriusXm. Classic Rewind, classic vinyl, Ozzy's boneyard, and some HipHop/Rap i.e. LLCoolJ Rock the Bells.

That being said has anyone installed this amplifier kit from infotainment.com
I havent seen much on it, but its supposed to be plug and play.

Toyota JBL Amplifier Kit – Infotainment.com

I also would like recommendations on 6 1/2 coax speakers that will drop into my rear doors and rear hatch that will fit with little to no modifications. I don't want to pay for Focals or Toyota specific speakers. I'm interested in the mainstream audio vendors, Kick, JL, JBL, Fosgate, etc...

I've read about the subaru kicker upgrade for the dash speakers and I'm not interested in $100 set of tweeters even if they are plug and play. I was planning to upgrade the dash speakers to 3 1/2 put 6x9 coax in the front doors and possibly 6 1/2 coax in the rear doors and lift gate if I can find some that will fit.

It would be great to see some installations especially 6 1/2 in the rear doors and lift gate if anyone has done this.

Thanks

Last edited by pk4Runner; 04-18-2019 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:02 PM #2
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I replaced all of the OEM speakers with Kicker CS series. There was a big difference! The CS Series Kickers are inexpensive (around $230ish dollars from Crutchfield for all 4 sets), but make a huge improvement.

Sizes I bought:
Dash 3.5"
Front Doors 6"x9"
2nd Row 6.5"
Rear Hatch 6.5"

All fit great. No issues. I bought adapters for the door and rear hatch speakers. Crutchfield includes these if you order from them, along with the wiring harness adapters. It really is an easy swap. Highly recommended.
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Old 04-19-2019, 12:20 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite130 View Post
I replaced all of the OEM speakers with Kicker CS series. There was a big difference! The CS Series Kickers are inexpensive (around $230ish dollars from Crutchfield for all 4 sets), but make a huge improvement.

Sizes I bought:
Dash 3.5"
Front Doors 6"x9"
2nd Row 6.5"
Rear Hatch 6.5"

All fit great. No issues. I bought adapters for the door and rear hatch speakers. Crutchfield includes these if you order from them, along with the wiring harness adapters. It really is an easy swap. Highly recommended.
So no amplifier, just speakers? I listen to Sirius metal stations too. Stock isn't terrible but a better sound would be good, nothing major though.

Also, Crutchfield has 5-1/4" speakers that says fits in rear. 6.5" says it fits front door.

Kicker 46CSC6934 6"x9" $99.99 Fits front door

Kicker 46CSC654 6.5" $69.99 x 2 (back doors and hatch) Says front door not rear

Kicker 46CSC354 3.5" $39.99 Does not fit

Total $280
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:59 PM #4
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It's a more expensive route, but I've been very happy with my setup with Polk components in the front and an Alpine under-seat subwoofer. I like my bass (and loud rock) and didn't want to deal with a separate amplifier too, which I think 8 full range speakers probably would want. Polk DB+ DB6502 6-1/2" Component System up front and Polk DB+ DB522 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers in the rear doors are pushed pretty loud with the stock head unit without clipping or distortion. I liked that they were marine rated speakers. I disconnected the hatch speakers because they share power with the rear door speakers (and are a long way away from my ears), and tucked the component crossovers underneath the tweeters. From Crutchfield $240 for the speakers and then $300 for the subwoofer from Amazon (there are cheaper subs). Tucks nicely under the driver's seat for a kick in the pants. Added some dynamat type in the doors which I think makes a worthwhile difference. I'm kind of an audiophile and was surprised (shocked really) by how good it sounds in that big space for so little money.
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:39 PM #5
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Whatever you do don't go the OEM audio plus JBL upgrade. $1500 for less bass than the factory JBL sub.
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Old 04-19-2019, 03:00 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mteolus View Post
So no amplifier, just speakers? I listen to Sirius metal stations too. Stock isn't terrible but a better sound would be good, nothing major though.

Also, Crutchfield has 5-1/4" speakers that says fits in rear. 6.5" says it fits front door.

Kicker 46CSC6934 6"x9" $99.99 Fits front door

Kicker 46CSC654 6.5" $69.99 x 2 (back doors and hatch) Says front door not rear

Kicker 46CSC354 3.5" $39.99 Does not fit

Total $280
Hang out and wait for a sale. Crutchfield puts them on sale quite often throughout the year. I kept my eyes open and found them on sale around this time last year. I can guarantee you all the speakers fit with the Scosche adapters. I did all the work myself in just a couple hours. The dash speakers take some work however.
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Old 04-20-2019, 02:35 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShermanOlsen View Post
It's a more expensive route, but I've been very happy with my setup with Polk components in the front and an Alpine under-seat subwoofer. I like my bass (and loud rock) and didn't want to deal with a separate amplifier too, which I think 8 full range speakers probably would want. Polk DB+ DB6502 6-1/2" Component System up front and Polk DB+ DB522 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers in the rear doors are pushed pretty loud with the stock head unit without clipping or distortion. I liked that they were marine rated speakers. I disconnected the hatch speakers because they share power with the rear door speakers (and are a long way away from my ears), and tucked the component crossovers underneath the tweeters. From Crutchfield $240 for the speakers and then $300 for the subwoofer from Amazon (there are cheaper subs). Tucks nicely under the driver's seat for a kick in the pants. Added some dynamat type in the doors which I think makes a worthwhile difference. I'm kind of an audiophile and was surprised (shocked really) by how good it sounds in that big space for so little money.
What Sub did you go with? Link please. Also do you have pictures of it installed?
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Old 04-20-2019, 07:31 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShermanOlsen View Post
It's a more expensive route, but I've been very happy with my setup with Polk components in the front and an Alpine under-seat subwoofer. I like my bass (and loud rock) and didn't want to deal with a separate amplifier too, which I think 8 full range speakers probably would want. Polk DB+ DB6502 6-1/2" Component System up front and Polk DB+ DB522 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers in the rear doors are pushed pretty loud with the stock head unit without clipping or distortion. I liked that they were marine rated speakers. I disconnected the hatch speakers because they share power with the rear door speakers (and are a long way away from my ears), and tucked the component crossovers underneath the tweeters. From Crutchfield $240 for the speakers and then $300 for the subwoofer from Amazon (there are cheaper subs). Tucks nicely under the driver's seat for a kick in the pants. Added some dynamat type in the doors which I think makes a worthwhile difference. I'm kind of an audiophile and was surprised (shocked really) by how good it sounds in that big space for so little money.
Is this the Alpine Sub you used? How was fitment under the driver's seat?Alpine PWE-S8 Compact 120-watt powered 8" subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

Have been thinking of the OEM Audio route but really like the Alpine Halo HU but no way am I doing both. Already upgraded the front doors to the Kicker 6x9s. If I could do the Halo with the little Alpine behind the dash pnp amp with this sub I think I'd be happy. Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2019, 03:29 PM #9
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Yep, that's the sub I have. Amazon has them cheaper than Crutchfield but not through an authorized dealer. I inquired about a price match but Crutchfield doesn't do it--for the price difference I felt I could take my chances. I followed Antman's tutorial without issues, ANTMAN'S Thread - Page 24 - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum. I'll try to remember to snap photos tonight. There are no issues of fit. I used two strips of velcro to keep it in place and it has stuck great to the cheap floor liner. Obviously it takes away a bit of toe room but there's plenty anyway I think.
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Old 04-23-2019, 03:38 PM #10
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$400 for a crappy amp? I'd pass on that. I upgraded my door speakers and run them off my stock headunit and it was a great improvement. If you're looking to drop some coin, look into OEM+ systems or the Taco Tunes plug and play kits
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Old 04-23-2019, 04:16 PM #11
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Newb question, but what's the best way to run power optimally to all speakers if each set is replaced? Two separate amps with one being four channel and the other two? Or six channel amp? Want to upgrade and do the work myself, but also want to make sure I'm doing it right the first time.
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Old 04-23-2019, 05:50 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eelliiss View Post
Newb question, but what's the best way to run power optimally to all speakers if each set is replaced? Two separate amps with one being four channel and the other two? Or six channel amp? Want to upgrade and do the work myself, but also want to make sure I'm doing it right the first time.
I have the front doors and dash running on the front left and right channels and the rear doors and hatch running off the rear channels. My amp is 5 channels with the 5th being a mono sub channel. It puts out 100watts per channel to the 4 channels and 300 watts to the sub channel. A 4 channel amp will do what you are wanting.

Mine is JL Audio XD700
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:50 PM #13
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I have the front doors and dash running on the front left and right channels and the rear doors and hatch running off the rear channels. My amp is 5 channels with the 5th being a mono sub channel. It puts out 100watts per channel to the 4 channels and 300 watts to the sub channel. A 4 channel amp will do what you are wanting.

Mine is JL Audio XD700
Running all off factory wiring or did you string new speaker wire? Can you run 100wpc through the factory wiring?

Does running both front and rear speakers in parallel using factory wiring create a 2 Ohm load on your amp?

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Old 04-23-2019, 09:05 PM #14
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Running all off factory wiring or did you string new speaker wire? Can you run 100wpc through the factory wiring?

Does running both front and rear speakers in parallel create a 2 Ohm load on your amp? Assume this is one reason to go JL so it can handle it.
The factory wiring is fine. I used taco tunes harnesses to/ from processor EQ and amp to head unit and factory harness. If i remember correct the front tweets and door speakers are parallel and end up as a 2 ohm load. The rear doors are series and end up as 4 ohms. I may have that confused. I toyed with the idea of running new wires to the rear doors straight from the amp and then connecting the pos and neg existing wire in door together to put the rears all in parallel also... which would let them split 100watts instead of something like 75watts but after getting it all in and toying with it awhile I decided against it. The soundstage is in front(as it should be) and the fader position in head unit is in center. More power to rears would alter this some. I think it ended up fine as is. In any event... a lot of ppl swap out speakers and forego adding power. This is a big mistake in my opinion because if the factory head unit puts up 20 watts per channel those rears will only get maybe 7.5 watts at max volume.

Swapping front speakers made a huge difference. Swappung rear speakers and adding power was an even bigger leap. You will need an amp that is stable with 2ohm loads.
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Old 04-25-2019, 12:38 AM #15
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