Now there's an interesting fix. Nice work and hopefully it doesn't reduce your item-holding capacity!

Curious as to why you didn't install the flat metal bars on the underside of the rails.

Actually hadn't considered it, and tbh completely forgot that there's a track down there. I think if I can find an Allen key that'll fit between the bar and roof, then I'll move it in the future. Thanks for the tip!

It looks like you guys updated the front mount on this rack to sit in the channel, is that true?

Anything we should be concerned about with the original style? If so, can it be swapped out or did the side rails change too?

Yes, they have been updated. There is nothing to be concerned about. I have run this style and a RTT offroad with no issues. We had a customer with a very large RTT who had some movement from side to side at the front of the rack so we updated the front mounts to eliminate that possibility. If you are concerned that your gear setup might cause some movement, give Tech a call and we can get you updated mounts! (The side rails have not changed)

Ok, thank you for the peace of mind. I don't run much weight up front and haven't seen an issue so I think I'm good.

Has anyone ever seen a flat roof rack? Something that would sit between the factory rails like a flat piece of steel? Maybe with some strategically cut holes to tie stuff down? This would be super low profile and spartan.

I have the rack and the crossbars are pretty sturdy.

I am the customer that they so graciously worked with to help out with the lateral bending and roof denting issues I was experiencing. It's rare to find companies with customer support like Victory 4x4's.

My RTT weighs around 190lbs and touches every crossbar on the rack. Also, adding the awning probably pushes the load over the 200lbs mark. With that much weight and going with the traditional four contact mounting points for the RTT, there was a significant amount of multi-axis movement going on. I measured around 3 inches of lateral skid marks on the roof from the rubber feet and my passenger side has dents where the feet sat. Even driving on the street produced skidding which was audible, so once I took it to Ocotillo Wells it was clear this needed a major change. Fortunately, I reached out with my issues and included video of the movement and measurements of the sliding, and they sent me custom replacement front mounts free of charge.

Installation was relatively easy with only a minor fitment issue of the fairing pressing against the new mounts ever so slightly that working the fairing's screws into the holes was necessary. The rubber feet easily were swapped between mounting plates and they squeeze into the rain gutter snugly. Have not tested off road yet, but very happy with the lack of movement on the road.

Thanks again to the great crew over at Victory 4x4 for being understanding and working with me on this. Eyeing the hatch ladder next!

Assembled mine yesterday and made a few mods. Though I will be calling Victory for the new front bracket, that will eliminate my only concern. Thanks Victory for never stopping product development.

First I have S2 lights as scene lights on the Rhino rack this is replacing. Coming up with a good clean solution on the new rack proved challenging. The side rails have cutouts, but it was a Goldie Locks issue. The front was to big to use a Baja flush mount and the one back from it was to small. So I designed a transition part to use the flush mount and allow mounting holes. The part has nut pockets on back for the Baja hardware. Had them 3D printed then I painted them to prevent delaminate issues with water and freezing temps.

Next up was aerodynamics. I designed an aluminum fairing extension to direct wind over my brick RTT. I did a similar version for my Rhino that went from the roof and above the rack. Made a HUGE difference in wind noise and increased my highway gas milage average my 3 mpg! Those channels can make a lot of noise. Plus in the winter it will direct wind and crude over our skis. The design is the same thickness as the Victory. Is locks in above the racks fairing nuts and interlocks with the brake bend of the Victory fairing. It is fully supported with no hardware. Then 2 M8 SS powder coated BHCS on either end. Now it just needs powder coating. Gave it a little Victory design language on the top corners.

Rhino Pioneer full length with custom front support feet and fairing will be going up for sale BTW. Doesn’t work with my new RTT

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Your design for the flush mounted S2's looks great! Sent you a PM

Any chance you'd be willing to 3D print some more of those S2 transition parts. I've been trying to figure out how to flush mount some S2's on my rack as well and have so far been stumped.

I've been trying to figure out the same thing. Looks so much cleaner flush mounted but I also want to be able to angle them downwards. This is how I have mine setup atm.

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Just pm me with your e-mail and I will send you the files and info. No problem

That was my next consideration was to not use the flush mounts and just drill a single hole for the mounting bracket. I just love the look of the flush mounts more.