Hello,

So i've read a ton of stuff on this subject but have no experience with this kind of stuff so thought id ask. I'm looking to replace the X-REAS system with Bilstein 5100s (Front and Back).

What do i actually need to buy to do the replacement? I don't plan to do it myself but plan to bring it to a shop to install. In the link below i see 2 5100 products, one is for the back and i assume the other is for the front? Are these two items all i need? Or do i need more?

Essex Distributors - Bilstein Car Shocks - Car Suspension & Shock Absorbers

Can i just replace the struts themselves? Or do i need new springs and stuff? Will The Bilsteins fit out of the box or do i need additional fittings to make it work?

Can i remove the old X-REAS struts and put in the Bilsteins without removing all the X-REAS lines that connect all the struts?

Finally, can someone point me to the proper procedure to remove the struts so the fluid doesn't leak out? I have no idea how familiar my mechanic is with this so additional information would probably help.

Are struts the same thing as shocks? If not do i need new shocks too?

Thanks!

You just need the four shocks/dampers, not new springs. You can use your current springs.

Lots of people like the 5100s. You may want to consider using Toyota brand OEM SR5 shocks. They will certainly fit. They will be softer than the bilsteins.

If you disconnect the xreas at the right spot it will not leak much fluid and you can leave the existing hard lines on the chassis. Hard to describe where the right place is. It's not at the shock. There is a connection after the flex hose, where the shock can be separated/removed with out losing fluid. Technically the xreas shocks should be removed with the entire vehicle up in the air and the wheels at full droop.

Do you plan to set the front shocks at the .85" setting?

5th gen and XREAS system

Toyota 4-Runner X-REAS Shocks - Shockwarehouse.com

https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/...structions.pdf

Removing X-REAS from a Limited

The first compression fittings from each shock are where the check valves are. I actually did mine on the ground and didn't lose any fluid.

Here's what the front looks like disconnected:



Here's the rear:

Sorry, I really have no idea what setting front shocks to .85" means. I'm ok with the current height of the car so would like to keep it close to that.

I have a 2010 4Runner Limited with the X-REAS suspension. I noticed a large rattling noise when engaging bumps in the road. I brought the vehicle into Toyota in South Tahoe for an air bag recall replacement and asked them to take a look at the suspension. They indicated that all four shock/struts were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced at a cost of around $4600. Obviously I did not opt for this due to the cost. I made one mistake when addressing this issue. I purchased the two rear shocks and two front struts from a junk yard in Rancho Cordova that were off of the same vehicle and were in good shape. I replaced these 4 and reattached the hydro lines back to them. Took me about 4 hours with help from a nephew. I test drove it and found this didn't solve the problem. There is too much hydraulic fluid that escapes the system when you do this rendering it ineffective. Do not replace these unless you choose to replace the entire system including the frame mounted activators. This was a $400 mistake which was painful. I ended up taking the vehicle to 4 Wheel Parts in Oakland and had them put the Bilstein 5100's on it at a cost of around $1500. They abandoned the hydro lines and simply mounted the 5100's all the way around. They elevated the fronts less that an inch to level out the vehicle as Toyota manufactures the vehicle with a slight down rake. The vehicle runs and handles as good or better than before. So my biggest point is, just replace the system with the 5100's, (or Fox or KBS shocks) and be done with it. No need to replace the entire system at the price it costs. Mostly, don't try to put on used shocks/struts to fix this! Hope this helps out.

I agree with you, Xreas replacement is too expensive. I opted for a low mileage ‘18 Bilstein TRD Pro suspension with Cornfed 2/1.5 leveling kit. It rides like a Pro.

Some closure on this thread, thanks for all those who commented.

I ended up bringing the truck to a suspension shop. 4 hours of labor + parts (includes removal of existing X-REAS system)

Model: 2010 Limited

New Backs Struts: Bilstein 5160 (No Lift)
New Fronts Structs: Bilstean 5100 (No Lift)

Still using the OEM springs.

A massive upgrade over my 10 year old OEM X-REAS system that has been leaking for a couple years. Rides stiffer, hardly feel the small bumps on the road, big bumps are about the same. Turning is much improved and a lot less left/right swaying. A lot less nose diving on brakes and just better overall handling. Should have done it earlier.

Front height has been increased by 1/2 inch and back height increased by 1/4inch, shop said it should go back to the regular height after the struts wear in.

Should also mentioned got some new tires too, Cooper AT3 4S (275-55-20). They are mounted on the OEM 20" Limited rims. Tires feel great as well.

Old tires were Cooper ATW (275-55-20), used for about 50,000 km.

It's time for me to do shocks on my 2014 Limited. I'm getting rid of the X-REAS but I'm not sure what I'm going to use to replace them yet. I don't do any off-roading so I don't feel like I need the Bilsteins (although I don't know anything about them). I'd like to have a soft, but firm ride, if that's possible. I have got to get rid of this nose dive! Advice, please!

I'm still on the XREAS at 85K miles. I hope to keep it as long as possible. When I need to replace it I'm looking at Dobinson's IMS shocks for $1200. Its a high quality shock that wont need to be rebuilt (although it is rebuild able). It also has a rubber eyelet mount, not a heim joint. Dobinsons also has a cheaper twin tube shock I'd consider. Other options are the Bilstein 5100. They are cheaper still. But some say they are harsh. I don't know. Also, the Fox Performance 2.0 shocks are an option. They sell a front strut only so you can reuse the stock springs.

OEM take offs are easy to find on ebay and other online marketplaces, they're soft-riding and cheap but will have the nose dive. Maybe find a set of TRD Pro shocks on ebay?

I just installed Bilsteins 5100's on my 14 Limited, and they're great for normal city driving. The ride is firm but compliant. Definitely took care of the nose dive. I set my fronts at the 1.75"(third notch from the bottom) setting to level the front because I like the look. Old Xreas felt sloshy at times, but mine were on their way out anyway with 104,000 miles on them. For the price, I don't think you can go wrong with the Bilstein 5100's if you mainly do highway/city driving. They'll handle some light offroading too. I've had 5100's on my 4th gen and a week after getting my 5th gen, I ordered the 5100's.

I've heard that the Limited use a smaller swaybar than the SR5 due to the sway control you get from X-REAS. Have any of you noticed too much sway after removing the shocks & replacing with something like Bilstein?

My dad has an SR5 on stock shocks and I don't notice any more sway from my car to his car. Though, I didn't really pay attention but there was nothing I noticed any significant to note. I'll do a back to back drive when I get a chance and report back.

Hello, I am having some issues with my removal of the X Reas system.
I have looked at almost every thread on here about removing and how no lights will signify when removed. (I guess I have one and a million)
We unhooked the old struts and rear shocks and replaced with Monroe parts.
After the install, went ahead and did the alignment while it was on the rack and now the parking brake light, center Diff lock (Flashing), slip indicator, and ABS have came on.
Please help. We are at a lost for words on this and cannot figure out how a non electrical system (X reas) has caused all this to happen.

The X-REAS being removed probably is not causing the lights, rather something else happened during the work that is causing the issue. I would double-check around the rear hubs/axle/diff as maybe something with parking brake or something else got disturbed and causing all the lights. Also, double-check the battery of the truck is not low. It is not impossible for low battery to sometimes cause a bunch of weird lights to illuminate.