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Old 08-26-2019, 09:43 AM #31
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I wrote the brakes up on my owner satisfaction servey. They designed the brakes correctly on the 2nd gen and newer Tundras. The knocked the trailer connector and hitch out of the park and only teased us with the standard deviation factor when designing the brakes.

BTW, I bought a second set of rotors as a spare and turn the set I pull off.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:40 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grug556 View Post
I believe the concept that rotors are warping isnt technically correct. I dont think your generating even near enough heat to actually warp the disc. Instead I think the issue is accumulation of brake pad deposits which result in a feeling of out of balance and inhibit smooth pad to disc surface area contact. Can you get a better pad maybe?
correct.


the proper break in procedure is a bit involved, and most people do not get anywhere close to doing it correctly.

Bedding In Brake Rotors



I have resurfaced a LOT of rotors over the years. some of the test drives had very bad pulsation, and often times actual brake pedal bounce. but, throwing the rotor on the lathe showed me it was running true. a very light surface cut and NEW pad, and braking was back to being nice and smooth.


I would guess barring a some physical contact that would actually bend a rotor, 99% of the time its uneven friction material build up. most likely due to driving style, and improper break in. although a mechanical failure could do it too. stuck slide pins, or seized pistons could potentially make the issue worse.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:11 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seafury View Post
So I have a 98 4Runner with just under 300k miles.

Lifted with Tundra front struts and OME 2" rear springs.
No armor, steel bumpers, racks, skids, sliders, or any other weight adding stuff.
285/75/16 E mud tires.

This truck has warped over 6 sets of front brake rotors since I bought it about 6 years ago at 202k miles.

Even in the beginning with 265/70/16 P all terrains, makes no difference.

I have even swapped in 2001 Tundra largest option front calipers, rotors and pads.

Warped those about 1 year ago, after about 2 years of use.

Never turn rotors, ALWAYS replace them.

Now, my new to me 2011 4Runner came to be mine, with already warped front rotors that I did not notice until it was to late.

What front rotors do you all recommend for the 2011 4Runner Limited that are warp resistant?

I am in Northern Va, so local stores preferred, but open to shipping if they are good and not to expensive.

So far I am looking at Stoptechs fromm Olympus Auto rated heavy duty for about $130 each.

And the best unknown crap Advance auto has at $90 each not rated heavy duty but cost more then standard rotors.

Would Toyota dealer rotors be better? I know they cost a lot, like the same as Olympus heavy duties or more.

I really want to avoid replacing rotors every year like my other truck.

Thanks Toyota for your shitty design mistakes that you won't acknowledge or correct.

Also BA (Brake Assist) can FOAD!

Sorry i'm a bit irritated by this ongoing bullshit brake issues on Toyota trucks.

My father went through similar issues with the 1st year T100's and even some of his later newer Tundras.

Toyota, get your brake shit together and stop screwing us over, make the brakes BIGGER and better cooling!

Thanks for any advice.
You ask if Toyota dealer rotors would be better, which tells me you haven't tried OEM yet. Here's my story.

Had warped after-market rotors on my 2001 several years ago (I know others are saying they're more likely worn than warped - bear with me). Those subsequently warped after a while. Replaced them with a third new set of after-market ones. Those did the same thing in a short time.

Talked with my parts guy at the Toyota dealership that I've frequented since 1982. He said this often happens with rotors sourced from China and elsewhere because the steel used is often recycled, which can result in an uneven density across the rotor. These different densities heat, cool, expand, and contract differently. This is his theory, not a supported fact as far as I know. But I do know that I bought OEM rotors that day (the dealerships also sell non-OEM in some places, so ask), and had zero trouble afterward. Fyi, I'm gentle on my brakes, preferring to let the vehicle coast down as permitted by traffic. I'm not a late-braker.

So whether your driving style, choice of rotors, bolt torque, or some other thing is causing your headaches, I would at least try OEM. Like others here, I've put lots of miles on lots of Toyotas, and the issue above is the only rotor problem I've ever had with any of them.
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Old 08-26-2019, 04:41 PM #34
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My wife warps rotors on her 2014 SR5, but we’re doing heavy mountain driving up and down from 8,500’ to sea level in California. Tried Stoptech drilled and slotted and they lasted 20K Miles, maybe less. Currently using Raybestos Advanced Technology slotted, $75 shipped from RockAuto. They are doing the trick.
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:26 PM #35
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Running full metalic pads?
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:23 PM #36
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My Wife ate the stock pads in 27K.......aftermarket go 15. She is a braking MONSTER!.......but I never have to touch the rotors. I have found the slide pins really need to be polished smooth and lubed on Toyotas.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:09 AM #37
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I used to drive a Buick Regal that had issues with warping rotors. I had changed my pads to aftermarket pads and it didn't take them long to heat up and warp the rotors. I replaced those rotors with aftermarket rotors, but didn't replace the pads and they warped withing 8-10k miles. I just dealt with it and got used to the rumble when coming to a stop on the interstate.

On my 2011 4Runner, I just changed out my brake pads. My rotors were fine, but I ordered OEM pads because I didn't want a hard metallic pad damaging my good rotors OR heating up because it was made cheaply.

Same thing for Rotors...if I order replacements, they will be OEM rotors. I don't know if they're better quality, but I've had better luck with them.

On the 4Runner, you don't have to remove the caliper to replace the brakes. You just pop a few metal keepers off, can open the calipers up with a little leverage and pull the old pads out. This might be a time to do visual inspection and make sure both pads are wearing evenly and might tell you if the caliper is dragging more on one side... If the rotors are aftermarkets and not the correct thickness (spec), it could cause some issues, in theory. So that's something else to consider if you didn't buy it new.
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:58 AM #38
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The worst thing to do that will cause “warped” rotors is to come to an abrupt stop from relatively high speed and then just sit there with your foot on the brakes. This will cause a hot spot under the pads which causes the metal to harden. The surrounding metal is softer and wears more quickly, creating a high spot where the hardened metal is. The rotors can be turned, but the high spot will develop again.

The OP brags about driving with a purpose, but what he’s really saying is that he drives aggressively, which is the root cause of his brake problems. He says it doesn’t happen on any other car, but are they comparable in weight?
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Old 09-06-2019, 08:18 PM #39
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So how about "scored" rotors along with some pulsing? I've got 35k on the dial and pads were just measured at 7mm. (Just did the 35k service and that's what service commented on.) I wouldn't say I'm abusive at all, but I do drive over an 1,800' pass with stop and go work traffic twice a day, so a lot of downhill breaking due to that fact. Never had this issue with my 07 Tacoma.

OEM replacement rotors or just have them turned next service interval?
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Old 10-23-2021, 08:49 AM #40
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may I piggy back on this issue

I bought my 2017 4runner limited used with just under 15000 miles in January 2020.
I'm on my 3rd set of front rotors.
I went with an after market cross drilled which listed for about 6 months.
Now on oem from the dealer and it's been about another 6 months and the steering wheel has begun to shake under braking again.

Fyi....I'm not new to driving so it's not my driving habits if all my other vehicles were no problem

Any suggestions/recommendations????
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Old 10-23-2021, 03:09 PM #41
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If you don’t torque the rims you can warp the rotors, also a lot of manufacturers recommend wheel torque to spec for this reason. This is most common on Euro & Foreign vehicles.
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Old 10-24-2021, 01:16 PM #42
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Don't come to hard stops and sit with the pedal pushed down firmly still. Gradual stopping and then very slowly rolling will keep the rotors from unevenly cooling enough to cause the pad material to cook (cementite) onto the rotor while you're stopped.

I've never needed to turn my rotors after owning 8 different vehicles including four trucks. I do my own brakes and use AutoZone's Duralast Gold components:

1988 Ranger (31" tires)
2001 F150
2008 F150 (35" tires)
2010 4Runner (33" tires)
2011 Volvo XC90
1997 Volvo 240 Wagon
1992 Honda Civic
2007 Lexus IS250
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Old 11-03-2021, 09:59 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Running2017 View Post
I bought my 2017 4runner limited used with just under 15000 miles in January 2020.
I'm on my 3rd set of front rotors.
I went with an after market cross drilled which listed for about 6 months.
Now on oem from the dealer and it's been about another 6 months and the steering wheel has begun to shake under braking again.

Fyi....I'm not new to driving so it's not my driving habits if all my other vehicles were no problem

Any suggestions/recommendations????
If you find the answer, I’d love to know as well. I too am multiple sets of rotors deep on my 2014 SR5. New off the lot and now at about 140,000 miles. OEM set lasted longest, but I’ve now been thru OEM plus 3 additional sets. 2 sets were replace by the shop that installed them ‘under warranty’ because they said even with the most aggressive driver there was NO WAY to kill them as fast as I was.

I just had new front and rear brake work done last month, so the sting is still fresh. Now, I will grant you that I lean towards the aggressive scale as a driver and am willing to pay the price for that, but I do think it is a tad ridiculous at this point. I don’t baby my truck, but I am also not drag racing it 0-100-0.

I am happy to upgrade the ENTIRE brake system to something that will hold up better. Honestly it isn’t even the cost, its more the annoyance and possible danger of the shutter when braking and then having to go back in for service. So if someone can tell me the best brake kit to install I will add it to the Christmas list and fix the issue.

I think of it no differently than the stock suspension, radio, or any component on the truck. You can upgrade it to suit your specific needs, habits or perversions if OEM / current component isn’t cutting it.

EDIT: Just did a quick search… Has anyone done this caliper upgrade with some type of performance rotor and pad? RR Racing Front Big Brake Kit for Lexus GX460 GX470 & Toyota 4Runner

Last edited by mnemonic; 11-03-2021 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 12-21-2022, 01:30 PM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Running2017 View Post
I bought my 2017 4runner limited used with just under 15000 miles in January 2020.
I'm on my 3rd set of front rotors.
I went with an after market cross drilled which listed for about 6 months.
Now on oem from the dealer and it's been about another 6 months and the steering wheel has begun to shake under braking again.

Fyi....I'm not new to driving so it's not my driving habits if all my other vehicles were no problem

Any suggestions/recommendations????
Sorry to open an old thread, but wow, are you me?? I have also had a lot of problems with the brakes.

Last edited by superbova333; 01-29-2023 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 12-21-2022, 04:06 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thennen View Post
You ask if Toyota dealer rotors would be better, which tells me you haven't tried OEM yet. Here's my story.

Had warped after-market rotors on my 2001 several years ago (I know others are saying they're more likely worn than warped - bear with me). Those subsequently warped after a while. Replaced them with a third new set of after-market ones. Those did the same thing in a short time.

Talked with my parts guy at the Toyota dealership that I've frequented since 1982. He said this often happens with rotors sourced from China and elsewhere because the steel used is often recycled, which can result in an uneven density across the rotor. These different densities heat, cool, expand, and contract differently. This is his theory, not a supported fact as far as I know. But I do know that I bought OEM rotors that day (the dealerships also sell non-OEM in some places, so ask), and had zero trouble afterward. Fyi, I'm gentle on my brakes, preferring to let the vehicle coast down as permitted by traffic. I'm not a late-braker.

So whether your driving style, choice of rotors, bolt torque, or some other thing is causing your headaches, I would at least try OEM. Like others here, I've put lots of miles on lots of Toyotas, and the issue above is the only rotor problem I've ever had with any of them.
Your parts guy's theory is pure smoke. Most brake rotors used on production cars are made of cast iron, not steel.
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