[lostinperiphery]

my 2011 just clocked over 100k, and I figure I'd try to save a few bucks by replacing the coolant myself (which I've never done, either on the t4r or any vehicle).

Thought I was all set to do a coolant flush using distilled water after watching some generic youtube videos that seemed nice and straight forward, but then googling the T4r process I found some mentions of multiple drain points and whatnot, as well as some concerns over flushing with water, etc. So I figure I'd ask for some clarification before I try to tackle this too blindly

So my questions now are:
1) Flush with Distilled Water vs Dump & Fill: Is it worthwhile to do a flush with distilled water and a flushing solution, or is the risk of water being left behind not worth the gains? Should I simply drain what's in the system and refill with new coolant, instead?

2)Multiple Drain Points: Looks like I've found the petcock at the bottom passenger side of the radiator. But found mention of potentially two other drain locations in the block? Is draining from just the radiator not sufficient? It sounds like the block drains can be hard to access, so how does one catch the coolant as it comes out, if it in fact necessary to empty from those?

3)Bleeding the air when refilling: Is there a specific technique I should apply for bleeding the air on a t4r when refilling the coolant? Some generic tutorials mention bleeder valves, or running the engine with a funnel 'friction fit' to the radiator fill neck enough to catch the 'overflow' coolant that will come out....

If anyone could walk me through the process as it applies to a gen5 T4r, I'd be most appreciative!!

[1000MPH]

I answered these Q’s on another thread but I’m sure there are other opinions.
Need help draining coolant

[jdc62]

Toyota recommends just a drain and refill at 100k and then every 50k after that using the Toyota Super Long Life coolant. Toyota SLL coolant is a 50/50 mix. The recommended approach is draining the radiator and block (use the block drains on either side per the above link). Some people use the Zerex Asian coolant which is supposed to be an acceptable substitute. A distilled water flush would likely make it difficult to wind up with a 50/50 mix.

[lostinperiphery]

Thanks folks! I located the drivers side drain thanks to that older thread, and mine appears to be a valve before they changed it to a bolt.

Having trouble locating the passenger side though, as that thread doesn’t seem to mention it. Might you describe where I should be looking?

I’ll just do a drain and fill if that’s the recommended procedure, since that sounds simplest

[chester4Run]

Originally Posted by lostinperiphery

Thanks folks! I located the drivers side drain thanks to that older thread, and mine appears to be a valve before they changed it to a bolt.

Having trouble locating the passenger side though, as that thread doesn’t seem to mention it. Might you describe where I should be looking?

I’ll just do a drain and fill if that’s the recommended procedure, since that sounds simplest

When I did mine at 100k I did the drain and fill (radiator only) then let it idle up to temp, then a second drain and fill. The coolant isn't that pricey for the volume required and most of the effort is taking it to the hazardous waste disposal...so the twice the volume is NBD. Good luck!

[1000MPH]

Ive posted this a dozen times but it’s been really worth it to me to save money on parts.

I get my Toyota SLL for $15/gal at Maita Toyota in Sacramento. I make an order and pick it up when passing through. Most dealers won’t ship fluids.
Use the Toyota parts website to find a better price at a dealer near you.
00272SLLC2 - Toyota 50/50 Pre-Diluted Super Long Life
Antifreeze/Coolant - Genuine Toyota Part

Also, check with your local municipality but some places allow for pouring coolant down your regular sewer system.

[QwikKotaTx]

The passenger side block drain is not too bad but be careful if your cats are hot. There is a nipple to attach a tube, handy if you don't want to make a mess.

I did a drain and re-filled with distilled water but no chemicals. I had trouble getting the engine warmed up enough to cycle with an open thermostat so I took the old t-stat housing and removed the actual t-stat from it. Putting this back on and topping off with more distilled water allowed me to cycle at cool temps. I let the engine run a few minutes and then drained everything. It will be tough to get all of the air out without the thermostat opening up but you can squeeze the upper and lower hoses to burps some out. Top off the radiator, close the cap and fill the overflow reservoir really high and after you drive it for a while the radiator will pull in the coolant it needs to replace the air it pushes out once it gets hot. You will want some space at the top of the reservoir to keep from making a mess.