If you keep maintenance records send them to your insurance with a message indicating that you do regular maintenance as scheduled.

They often assume that people forgo the maintenance which results in a lower payout.

Pretty much the same advise as some on this topic have said, but here is an article. I have listened to this guy on the radio before and there are people out there you can hire to negotiate with the adjuster for you. Maybe you can find one in your area.

Dealing With An Insurance Adjuster | CarProUSA

Tough BREAK on the car accident. No one ever wins in these cases. You get a lot of aggravation in the process.

I'd list the mod upgrades and meet the adjuster to show them. Price out the replacement costs, not what they cost when you bought them. Because inflation happens. You can't buy a used lift kit and you wouldn't want a used one. Same for the stereo system. Price out the cost of the system and installation in today's market. If you have to reinstall your existing sound system you'll spend many hours doing that. Just let them pay for it, new cost.

The bike is a tougher one. It looks like a nice bike in the photo. Price a similar frame, brakes and gear derailer, etc. The tech on bikes keeps changing so newer bikes cost more. The bike rack is easier. Price a new, comparable rack. You can't find a used rack without a lot of searching. Why should that effort be on you?

Yes, go to the doctor. If there's any indication of injury or long term recovery you need to be compensated. For injuries, you may want an attorney.

Be tough and know the value of your time and equipment. Hiring an attorney or adjuster is not cost efficient, IMHO. They'll want a percentage of your buyout for their services. And it will take much longer to settle.

Is the insurance company renting a similar car for you in the mean time? They should not be able to offer to rent a Ford Focus to replace a Toyota 4x4 4Runner. You want the same kind of car you were driving, or better.

Good luck.

Also, I bought all my mods on sale by waiting for the right price. I installed all of them myself. Being paid what I paid for any accessory based on my receipts is not the same as being paid at todays inflated prices. Get the new replacement value for all of the accessories, plus installation.

If you decide later to wait and buy the replacement parts on sale or do the installation yourself sometime down the road, that's up to you. But your time and the inconvenience of wait is worth something.

I spent several days installing my ICON Stage 7 lift. I wouldn't want anyone to offer me a payoff based on the long-gone sale price. And you can't put a price on your own time. You'd never get paid enough for the care and detailed installation you do for yourself.

EDIT: Who has possession of your vehicle right now? It's still your car. It would be easer to strip the mods off if it's in your possession. Although that may be hard to accomplish if it's in their yard already.

My car is at the shop. I still have the title. They said I can take the stereo out. I have a week before they start charging for storage.

Some of the mods I did myself or with the help of a friend. I guess I can't get paid for that even though I'll have to do it all over again.

Depreciation seems to outpace inflation. Perhaps it's their only focus.

I don't understand the math. If they say totaled payout in the $19,000s. To repair it the shop says it will cost $15,000+. Then why are they saying it will cost me $11,000 to keep? Shouldn't it be more like $4000?

They've got the comp report wrong IMO. The comparable 4runner with the lowest mileage (67,000) got a subtraction of $2256 for mileage. The one with virtually the same mileage as mine (109,000) gets an addition of $23. Two cars got reduced in price due to missing options that my car has - and all cars got penalized exactly $1845 for "condition". How does that make sense?

Is it possible for someone to say it's totaled when it is not and then take possession of it and fix it for a few thousand then sell it as a low mileage 4runner? How will I ever know? There are scams everywhere and it's becoming increasingly difficult to trust anyone nowadays.

What do they mean by charging you for storage? If it takes the insurance company 2 weeks to offer you a fair price based on their research, why should you pay? Maybe that's a good reason for them to take possession of the car from the body shop and store it at their lot.

Yes you can get paid for installing the mods. Show proof of the mods and get a current price for replacement PLUS installation. You'll need to find a current price for the item and a shop who can install it to quote a price for the install. Later you can always do the install yourself if you choose. Then pocket the money they pay for the install.

Depreciation vs inflation? Are they going to depreciate all of your mods? That's not right. You should get current replacement cost, installed. You can't go out and buy replacements for most of those mods used for a depreciated cost. Hunting for anything used will take lots of time. Who pays for that time?

I don't understand all the insurance calculations regarding totaled versus repairable. But why would you want to keep it and try to repair everything? The frame got wacked at the trailer hitch and the suspension is tweaked. What else could be wrong?

You got some good ideas above on evaluating the worth of the truck. Also you can check Kelly Blue Book for a value. The Auto Trader search is a good idea. I got prices for about 20 cars when I sold my father's Cadillac a few months ago.

In the comps, the reduction for mileage may be because 67,000 miles is less than 109,000 miles so your car is worth $2256 less than that one. Could that be the case? Find your own comps and show them.

I don't think it matters if it's close to you or far away. It's only for comparison and to place a value on your car. Eventually you may buy a 4Runner that's older, newer or a new one. That's up to you after you get the money for your car.

The insurance company is going to auction it off to someone who makes a living salvaging wrecked cars. It's their problem and not your concern. Let it go and focus on getting a fair price. That also explains the "Salvage" title you found for one of the 4Runners you found a price for.

Other people here on the forum may be able to add to or reflect on what I'm saying here. I've never had a vehicle totaled so I haven't had to deal with it directly.

This scenario would result in a salvaged title, which can cause financing/insuring problems. That A pillar damage is not insignificant.

Is it possible for someone to say it's totaled when it is not and then take possession of it and fix it for a few thousand then sell it as a low mileage 4runner? How will I ever know? There are scams everywhere and it's becoming increasingly difficult to trust anyone nowadays

Yes this is what the insurance co. will do. My insurance said my totaled car will not have a salvage title. They will sell it for appox $3500 at auction to someone who could fix it and put it back on the road.

My insurance who acquired my totaled car when they paid me $15,250 will sell it at auction. The title will not be a salvage title and someone will fix it and sell it or part it out. Up to the buyer to decide.

Doesn't hurt to remind the insurance co they are acquiring an asset with value. Your wrecked 4runner is not garbage, it still has value that you are giving up.

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You can also opt to go through your insurance company and they will subjugate to the at fault drivers insurance co so that way it doesnt raise your rates. Usually your own company is easier to deal with because they dont want to lose your business vs the other drivers co not giving an F about you.

Regarding the storage...for me, my insurance would pay the shop (Toyota Dealer) who had my car $35 a day for storage. After 3 weeks insurance wanted to move my totaled 4runner to the Auction House for storage, as that is free. So yes, insurance paid for storage for a while. I guess I could have had the wrecked 4runner moved to my house after they stopped paying for storage but I let them take it to the Auction Lot. At that point it was gone, no buying it back and no getting parts back.

FWIW. they wanted to charge me $250 for the missing spare tire I keep in my garage and they let me take the RCI skid plate free as that was considered a owner added option.

Yes, correct. This is what I did. Made it much easier. Accident was not my fault but other driver only had minimum legal insurance so it didn't cover the loss and my insurance subjugated the at fault party's insurance for full value including the storage, rental car, sales tax and registration on my new 4runner. My rates should not go up, we'll see.....

Any car we have had toatled, I've had towed back to the house, took off all parts I wanted to that were major add ons, and once the adjuster looked at it, we would remove smaller things like shift knobs and floor mats and things like that and then Copart would come pick up the car no problem. Just went through this with my wifes winter car (2009 BMW 128i).

There's a trail model 2010 that I can purchase for about the same amount they are offering me. The only problem is it's a reconstructed title. It was a theft recovery with only cosmetic damage.

If their insurance company is refusing to budge and you're not happy with the settlement, your only option is to open the claim through your insurance and they will SUBROGATE for damages. You would need to tow it back to your place or have your insurance company start paying the storage fee.

The $1845 you're seeing taken off is a subtraction for the condition of your 4Runner. I would question them on what they are taking off on your condition rating. Almost $2k seems excessive and it's so subjective dependent on the individual adjuster. There should not be that much unless you have physical damage or something mechanical. The adjuster needs to remember they are condition rating a 9 year old vehicle with over 100k miles, it's not going to be perfect. After hearing that large of a condition hit, it really sounds like they are trying to screw you. You should be getting 1-2k more.

One other thing re: condition rating is they will subtract for parts you are removing... So if you're pulling the sound system without replacing it with the stock parts, they will subtract that in your condition rating.