Might be the Front Crank seal, pretty sure that is where I'm leaking. At least it doesn't look too hard to change. I'll probably give it a go next weekend.

Have oil leaking here. Any idea of the source?

Attached Images

 

I have a 2011 ... was told after last oil change that I have an oil leak "seep" in the front of the engine. Going in Monday for diagnosis. Can't help thinking it could be a $2500 repair which I can't afford.

Esther based oil of a heavier weight then the WD-40 they recommend for EPA numbers?
Why Esters?

2nd Gen - 2005-2015 1GR-FE Tacoma's are known to leak at the timing cover. While the 5th Gen 4R and 2nd Gen Tacoma both use the 1GR-FE engine, they are not the same in all respects. I know that things north of the block are different, but believe the blocks are the same.
There's an extensive write-up on how to redo timing cover seal on a 2nd gen Tacoma at:

tacomaworld.com

They used Toyota 0W20 synthetic

Thanks, Lester. I'm not at all mechanically inclined so won't be redoing the timing cover seal myself. This is depressing. I owned two Subaru Outbacks and re-did the head gaskets on both for thousands of dollars. I gave up on Subarus and bought this 2011 4Runner that I thought would go another 100k with no problems. Now, it's like deja vu all over again. I bought a '97 4Runner for my son - he has been driving it for 10 years with no major issues.

Yeah, 0W20 is ONLY to meet CAFE standards. (MPG)
(Corporate Average Fuel Economy is aiming at about 49.6 mpg in 2025).

But I don't want to really get into it here as many don't do anything outside what is RECOMMENDED (because of CAFE standards) in the manual.
Oil is "supposed" to be based on temperature and operating conditions, but only in the USA are they going crazy.
You can read what some say about both sides here.
Oil viscosity


Little off topic...
They basically want to eliminate the gasoline internal combustion (Then diesel) engine it seems. And make it prohibitively expensive to own/maintain a vehicle.
(Yet our asphalt roads are paved in black gold/oil)

I am in the construction industry... and they even have an all-electric backhoe.
https://www.casece.com/northamerica/...v-project-zeus

I just took it to an independent repair shop - he confirmed it's the timing cover. Estimate - $2000. Oh yay! Now I just have to decide if/when to do this. He said it's one of the worst leaks he's seen. Also, need to decide whether to cancel diagnostic appointment at the dealer - cost will be $130 and I already know what the problem is.

Try not to be bummed about this. If there is any vehicle worth going after leaks and getting things fixed up, it is your 4Runner. Make sure you have top notch mechanic and they give you a year warranty on the work. Sometimes leaks take a few passes to get right.

Did they use die, or just do a visual inspection? Is it leaking enough to drip on the ground? There's a couple other possible sources in that area - valve cover gasket or VVTI high pressure hose, both of which are cheap and easy fixes.

Generally, if it is the timing cover, it is a minor weap more than a leak, as it is not under pressure or in an area that oil pools. Some have reported success by smearing RTV on the outside of the union of the timing cover, head, and block. I just did this to mine last week so the survey is still out on if it will fix it for me.

Doing the proper repair is a pretty big job; doing it the ghetto way just involves removing the 3 bolts for the power steering pump, degreasing the area, and smearing some RTV on.

I would read post #41. in this thread.

Some more below about the RTV:

post #7 in the following thread
2006 Tacoma Suspected Power Steering Return Line | Tacoma World

post #22
Front main seal leaking?? | Page 2 | Tacoma World

post #182399
What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today? | Page 9120 | Tacoma World

Check torque on timing cover bolts, degrease with brake cleaner, and blow with dry compressed air. Use RTV that's flexible and highly oil resistant such as Permatex ultra black maximum oil resistance RTV silicone. Check PCV valve and its vacuum line.

You cannot prove that. It may well be true, but Toyota has not said so. So it is your opinion.

Well then what happened? Tourette's syndrome? Computer possessed? Were you hacked by the anti-0w-20-Industrial-Complex? Somebody have a gun to your head?

I'm thinking you dragged this thread off-topic because you really did 'want to get into it here.' 😉

This is a thread about oil leaks, not your personal choice to disregard your owner's manual and your apparent desire for company in doing so.

See the thread in what you quoted.



Page 465 in the owners manual.
"SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 0W-20 is not available,SAE 5W-20 oil may be used.However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change"
Except Puerto Rico.
https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docu...f/OM35B46U.pdf

Why is that? What do they use there? 0W8?
What if we don't live where it gets cold?
Say like in the UAE where they recommend 5W30 through 15W40 for the SAME engine.
Page 832/833 https://nd-auto-styles-temp-producti...0_bookmark.pdf
Replicate via this link Owners Manual





And I suggested to the user to use a thicker oil which MAY help slow the leak, and depending on the base, may help slow it even more.
She doesn't seem to have the cash or know-how to DIY.
After all, we are not all swimming in pools of money, so I made the easiest, most obvious suggestion for her to try and see if it slows.


Here is one from Australia. Page 338 and scroll up 1 page to see the info is for the 1GR.
https://toyotamanuals.com.au/docs/fj...ug-14-current/