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Old 06-09-2019, 01:00 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yong32986 View Post
If your vehicle is still under warranty, it's better to at least pay a shop to do oil changes . That way if engine goes bad, you have prove that oil changes have been done

for most people this is true.
however, receipts with dates and mileage of the vehicle for each service will suffice as well.

I will state that, yes, things are much easier to get warranty work done and (certainly) goodwill after the warranty expires if you have done ALL the recommended services at the same dealer that you purchased the car from.
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:09 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macscac View Post
I will state that, yes, things are much easier to get warranty work done and (certainly) goodwill after the warranty expires if you have done ALL the recommended services at the same dealer that you purchased the car from.
Pfft, if you are willing to pay what they charge after your warranty expires, they will always do work for you. Not sure what good will you are referring too? The one where you spend over $1600 to get a loaner? Or the one when you pay for a new steering rack that shells out two days later and they want to charge you for labor, fluids, and shop supplies to replace it? I gave that whole theory a go with my 3rd gen (that I bought and serviced through the same dealer), it was shit. If you're decent and you give anyone a lot of money and they will treat you well, for the most part.

Warranty work works this way, they have to prove what you did or didn't do in order to deny a warranty claim. I know this having thrown a rod through my hilux 22re block at 33,000 miles... of course I had to wait 7 weeks to get my truck back, it did come back with a "new" motor.
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Last edited by jrandom; 06-09-2019 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:25 PM #33
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I'm referring to a 'normal' dealership.. sure there are bad ones out there but..

the store I work at for example..
we have a client who's engine just failed... cannot be rebuild... 13k outside of warranty.
They have performed all scheduled maint with us.
The dealership and the factory are picking up 75% of the parts and labor.
client at 25%

that's all i am saying...
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Old 06-09-2019, 08:29 PM #34
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That is pretty stand up.

Thats the thing I thought the dealership I chose was ‘normal’. They have good reviews and I had heard positive things. I literally gave them scores of chances to live up to the reputation. Every time, failed in one way or another, not little things either.

I don’t even use their parts department anymore, even though they were fine enough to deal with.

Out of the three I proximity only one has been decent, incidentally the same one that replaced the Hilux motor 25 years earlier, new ownership, but a lot farther away.
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:52 AM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougR View Post
[LEFT] On my 2011, the skid plate has two bolts connected to a hard plastic splash guard between the skid plate and bumper. I discretely painted nail polish on those bolts to see if the dealer changed the filter. The vehicle was returned to me with those bolts undisturbed. I showed it to the shop foreman and he assured me that they could remove four bolts on the skid place and lower it without removing the splash guard.
I can't speak for all 5th Gen 4Rs, but mine has S hooks on the front. I've seen 4Rs on the rack at dealerships with the skid plate hanging down. The S hooks keep it attached. All 4 12mm bolts removed. I suspect Toyota did the S hook thing for just this reason - expedite dealership oil changes. Apparently the shop lube techs are able to reach up inside and access the oil filter canister.
Being a driveway mechanic, I always pull mine off completely as I do all of the oil maint. with the 4R flat on the ground. Very easy to get the SP off using a small bottle jack as an extra pair of hands. Same with SP reinstallation.
I used the so-called "free" 10K rotate and oil change back when. They performed the oil change, but after I got home and let the tires cools, I found all tires to be WAY over inflated and the PSI varying a good deal. One tire had something like 38 PSI, another 42 PSI, and so on. None were close to being the same. My guess is the lube tech(s) just shot some air in each tire w/o bothering to check the results.
I passed on the "free" 20K service.
Lube techs are at the bottom of the pay scale. It ain't a mystery.

People who have their oil changed anywhere should consider themselves lucky to drive out with oil in the engine.
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Last edited by Lester Lugnut; 06-11-2019 at 04:37 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:37 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTN4RNR View Post
Pull the dipstick... If it's black, take it back.

Even at 5k, your oil will be dark brown/black.
Nope. Our '14 SR5 has 175K miles and I change the oil every 10K miles. It is never dark. At worst it's clear honey colored. We're using synthetic 0-20. Never consumes any oil.

Last edited by CutthroatSlam; 06-11-2019 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:08 PM #37
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You still gotta remove all the skid plate bolts but it can hang down on the hooks. The front plastic "Lower bumper" cover is bolted to the skid plate on the back end so it will just flex down with the skid plate. Leaving it hanging is fine if you're on a lift but still in the way if you're crawling under from the front.
I remove mine to rinse the ton of crap that's always in there.
My 4R oil is never very dark either but the same oil in my GFs Rav4 get dark very quickly, <5000 miles.
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