I tried to order from Filthy. Their website is garbage and it wouldnt let me put in Canada for shipment. Called them and the voicemail said they would call back in 2 days

Went to Totalautomotive, spoke to Rich, had all the gear ordered asap and was slightly cheaper to. Ive ordered off Total before and last time it worked out ok.

If you're trying to maximize on-road comfort, I would put them on the lowest setting and go from there.

You should check out Elka since you are on the east coast(rust concern in winter) and they are made in Quebec to battle against salt and harsh chemicals in winter as they are made of aluminum.

You sound like me,mine is a daily driver (95% of highway),so I only need a mild lift and I’m sticking with 265/70/17.

I bought Elka for my 2017 limited and I didn’t get the adjusters since I figured the difference would be insignificant no matter how I play with it and I’m really lazy.


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Thanks, so for the fronts set on 1? Do the rears need 1 or do they bump up to say 2 or 3?

For those who have Kings, what other parts did you guys purchase to complete the lift. I’m going this route also, did you guys get new bumpstops, bumpstops extension brackets, uca, etc? I want to get everything at once and slap it all on and have all parts on hand needed to complete the job.

if you're going to leave the collars alone and level your 4runner, nothing extra is needed. Just a good alignment tech.

If you're planning to lift, you'll want new upper control arms, and rear springs.

The rear reservoir brackets will receive the existing bumpstops. I have seen people use the toytec bumpstop spacer, but I don't run one, and I have 2" icon springs in the rear.

I do not use a front diff drop either.

I did not use a diff drop either. My CV angles look like stock with 2-2.25" of lift.

One thing my Kings was missing from the packaging was two small 3/8 washers used for the front reservoir bracket 'slotted' hole. You can go to your local hardware store and find a 3/8 lock washer and flatten it. I e-mailed KING about it and they said that will work fine.

Edit: Another thing to note that is not mentioned in KING's instruction is that when you relocate the front sway bar w/ the reservoir brackets, you also install spacers for the tubular support arms (1 on each side). When you do that, you cannot "hook" the skid plate back on using the hooks. You will have to bend them with a pair of pliers until they the four mounting points line up on the bottom.

Fronts at 1
Rears at 1

This will give you the softest ride these shocks have to offer. Probably the best for daily driving on the road.

If you add a bunch of weight to the rear, you could bump up the rear shocks accordingly.......and the front shocks too if it feels like the front end is floating at all.

If you take it off-road, you will probably want to move he adjusters up a few notches as well.

Been running mine for ~2.5 years. Love it and glad I went King. Installed myself, let me know if you have any questions. Taking out XREAS is messy if you manhandle it.

275/70/17 w/ TRD wheels
Gobi rack w/ ladder & sunroof insert
40" Black oak LED in front and 2-6" in rear
2000 ARB awning
Full RCI skids
Sliders
Full Kings all around, just had them recharged ~2k miles ago
Total chaos UCAs
ICON 2" springs in rear
Dynamat whole interior (yes...it sucked)
HID low beams
Yellow LED fog bulbs