hard pass. KDSS isn't that easy, plus quick disconnects make a racket. A switch to leave the system "open" would be fantastic. other guys have simply unplugged the harness from the system on the frame rail below the driver door, this inline switch has also been discussed, but that thread kinda died off.



IIRC the only light that popped up was the KDSS light when disconnecting the plug. OP did you read through that other KDSS disconnect thread?

Here ya go, post 34 it gets juicy... Only KDSS w/lift need apply

"""Did some testing today.......... Pulling the fuse locked my kdss in highway mode, very stiff at 5mph and no change at moderate speed.... But! (With the fuse in) Unplugging the kdss module on the frame rail area locked mine in low speed mode!!!!!! So I could hit that 10-20mph and still have the more plush ride, the kdss dash light is lit up with either method and it turns right back off when plugged back in!, I can feel slightly more body roll on the road but I feel as if even though it stays in low speed mode and I get a softer ride, the valving in the system is only so big so at 25-30 it feels somewhat similar, but I also was testing with street pressure and it was a good test, can't wait to air down and have a day out on it... Driving into parking lots also felt softer on my typical run to the grocery store, so this will even help out the mall crawlers..����

Next is to wire in a switch to maybe the power wire going to the module so I don't need to take off the cover to change it, but it would really only be there if the kdss light gets irritating at night.""""

Thanks for the link. I'll give this a read through when I get home and see if there's a solution in there.

A brief scan showed it looks like they were looking at a different harness.

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@rigtec
Are you aware of any potential switch solution without the manual undo of the harness?

Where is the module located? I just got my 4Runner this weekend and haven’t looked for it yet. I’ll see what I can track down for the connector. I just spent some tome doing that for another project on it.

The SCU is located behind the dash panel on the driver's side, to the right of the steering column above and behind some white plastic duct. Look at the picture in my original post for reference.

Hi Akkording,

I think if I wanted to perform an experiment of "Temporary KDSS disengagement"; there aren't a lot of wires the in convenient locations e.g., in the dash...etc, I might install a 'single pole/double through' (spdt) relay on the GND wire (White w/Blk stripe "Stabilized ECU".

The reason for the SPDT relay, is because I don't know if the ecu normally operates when Energized or De-energized, so it can easily be switched around just by swapping one wire on the Normally Open, to the Normally closed terminals (or vice-versa)! I looked at a wiring diagram of that system but there are three ECU's that are networking together...

Main body ECU, Stabilizer ECU, and the Skid control ECU; which are using the four wheel speed sensors to control how KDSS is supposed to work! And like @Old Red has stated, you don't want the truck to start throwing DTCs in the CAN-bus system! The "Stabilizer ECU" has a Blk feed wire coming from the KDSS 10A fuse in the D/S fusebox!

This power source is HOT when in the on or start position. I might break the GND (Wh w/Blk stripe) wire, since our trucks utilize a Ground-side switch mode! And even then you may start throwing DTC's because the Stabilizer ECU has lost power; that's why I refered to this as an experiment! Hope this helps, 'Best to you'

rig

I could definitely benefit from an on/off switch. But I'll let more technical folk figure this one out before I start hacking up harnesses.

I like the kdss alot but I want to control it. Just like switching throttle maps on the pedal commander for street vs off road conditions (Sport + vs Eco), I want to just switch the KDSS off (open) when I hit dirt.

It would be like having two different trucks. One is a "corner hugging" responsive daily the other is a plush and capable off roader.

Yea they were dealing with the harness on the outside of the vehicle where the open/close valves are i think.....driver side frame rail.

Im not really understanding how kdss has such an effect on the softness of the ride? Are you hitting bumps big enough to flex that hard while traveling faster than 12mph? I would think you would need to be flexed pretty hard for the swaybar to interfere with the shocks dampening. Just trying to get a mental picture here.

Sway bars stop your vehicle from leaning, typically in corners at speed, generally on a surface where traction is good, the body would tend to roll or sway the most. This benefit is, for the most part, valuable on-road. Certain types of off-road specific builds remove them completely. Others use, as mentioned earlier, disconnects.

Having no sway bar, disconnects, or an actuated sway bar removes some of the travel limitations of the suspension (ie makes it easier to travel through the stroke), giving you more tire to ground contact in offset terrain. It is easily possible to go faster in this circumstance and not be getting the full benefit of your suspension. 12mph is not that fast, particularly if you are accustomed to driving the terrain.

I understand the function of swaybars and how they affect articulation and lean, im just not seeing how they would stiffen up the ride unless you were really plowing through rough terrain at a good clip causing the suspension to eat up lots of travel...and in that situation I imagine the ride would be pretty bad no matter what unless you are running a plush LT setup...and if you are running a plush LT setup its pretty doubtful you have KDSS.

Not saying i think its wrong, just that it doesnt seem like sagging the swaybars would have a huge impact on the harshness of the ride.

I guess I misunderstood your idea of "softness"

12 isn't that fast and cutting off at 12+ is a big change in handling. Maybe it is just me, it seems pretty noticeable when driving, more so when I reduced the dampening on my shocks all the way.

In a similar way to how sway bars can transfer forces from side to side (and the KDSS sway bars are bigger), kdss also transfers forces front to rear which can make for a harsh ride at speed on bumpy surfaces. Turning it "off" puts an accumulator in series which dampens the transfer and makes it more comfortable. You dont have to be going that fast, just 30-45mph on a gravel road is harsh.

I need to make a switch. I have been testing this and for sure it soften the ride up as far as cross sections or anything that your suspension has to articulate. Like going through a drive way section at an angle etc.

Essentially what this does is make it like you are taking one away bar end link off. Definitely not like completely loosing the sway bar.




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