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Old 09-02-2021, 02:00 PM #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HGAdv View Post
Hereís DrKDSSís system wired to my switch Pro. super impressed with every aspect of it so far.

DrKDSS sway-bar wiring disconnect. - YouTube

Disable KDSS with toggle switch?Disable KDSS with toggle switch?


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Old 09-02-2021, 02:59 PM #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
Kdss does not disable over 12mph. It never really disables. Itís always working. The kdss control harness / switch deal weather itís the v1 I made for blackgate or my v2 is what disables the kdss so that the accumulators stay open. Which in turn allows the fluids / pistons to move.

Under 12mph from factory the accumulators are open. Over 12 itís closed which doesnít allow the fluid/ pistons to move.


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https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3445627-post16.html

Looks like KDSS is disengaged over 12mph unless steering speed is over 5 deg/sec or lateral G is greater than .2.
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Old 09-03-2021, 11:03 AM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mo_mo View Post
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3445627-post16.html

Looks like KDSS is disengaged over 12mph unless steering speed is over 5 deg/sec or lateral G is greater than .2.

Link doesnít work.


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Old 09-03-2021, 11:24 AM #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
Link doesnít work.


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Works for me... multiple computers/browsers and on mobile... it's a post by Jetboy and if you scroll down to the bottom of his post you will see the charts.
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Old 09-03-2021, 04:36 PM #50
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Disable KDSS with toggle switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo_mo View Post
Works for me... multiple computers/browsers and on mobile... it's a post by Jetboy and if you scroll down to the bottom of his post you will see the charts.

Iím getting invalid link and to click browser and it sends me to some random page on the forum.

Ok what Iím saying is when you kill the power to the accumulators ( which is what the control harness I have does). The accumulators stay open. And it basically allowing for more sway. When over 12mph and kdss control harness not activated , the accumulators are closed and doesnít allow for the sway and is basically in the stiffest mode it can be in.

Also prob the confusing is in the terminology being used.


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Old 09-03-2021, 04:44 PM #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthPark View Post
I can't remember if there was a more recent thread, but I've been running with a kdss disable function for about 1 month now. Unfortunately I have yet to take it out on a trail due to some unrelated issues, but I do not notice a gigantic difference driving around town with it. It doesn't feel like it's going to just fall over sideways or anything like that, I 'think' I can feel a difference on some bumps here and there. This also may have to do with my some what heavily modified suspension already though.

Once things get settled for me I'll be back out on the trails every week or so. Until then, I have not ran into any issues with the switch, no weird errors or side effects.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthPark View Post
I can't remember if there was a more recent thread, but I've been running with a kdss disable function for about 1 month now. Unfortunately I have yet to take it out on a trail due to some unrelated issues, but I do not notice a gigantic difference driving around town with it. It doesn't feel like it's going to just fall over sideways or anything like that, I 'think' I can feel a difference on some bumps here and there. This also may have to do with my some what heavily modified suspension already though.

Once things get settled for me I'll be back out on the trails every week or so. Until then, I have not ran into any issues with the switch, no weird errors or side effects.

If you are not feeling it you are not driving it enough. Or havenít drove it enough to know what it does or doesnít feel like. Even if you are heavily modified. I doubt itís as modified as mine. I have basically a race setup per day and can def feel it. Mayb itís not working or failed. Especially if itís the v1 control harness. Might want to check it.






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Old 09-03-2021, 05:20 PM #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
Iím getting invalid link and to click browser and it sends me to some random page on the forum.

Ok what Iím saying is when you kill the power to the accumulators ( which is what the control harness I have does). The accumulators stay open. And it basically allowing for more sway. When over 12mph and kdss control harness not activated , the accumulators are closed and doesnít allow for the sway and is basically in the stiffest mode it can be in.

Also prob the confusing is in the terminology being used.


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Maybe try something other than Tapatalk... I don't know.

Anyways, if you read through the chain of what I was replying to, the question came up as to how does anyone know if the system is designed to handle 'high speed'.

If you go and click the link or do your own research, you will find out that your current understanding of the valves (to the accumulators...accumulators do not get electrical power here) is overly simplified. The valves are open under some conditions above 12 mph (not all conditions). You can also feel this occasionally, like if you take an on-ramp corner slow or fast, the steering/yaw/g-sensor input will modify the system to open/close the valves and change the body roll angle automatically (without an override switch).

you can scroll through this page to see further discussion on the topic:
KDSS Long term reliability?

I can see the switch being useful under some scenarios such as high-speed washboards possibly, but otherwise it's not for me.

Also, back to the speed discussion, suspension cycling doesn't generally care about vehicle speed, it only cares about the "size" of the bump.
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Old 09-03-2021, 06:49 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mo_mo View Post
Maybe try something other than Tapatalk... I don't know.

Anyways, if you read through the chain of what I was replying to, the question came up as to how does anyone know if the system is designed to handle 'high speed'.

If you go and click the link or do your own research, you will find out that your current understanding of the valves (to the accumulators...accumulators do not get electrical power here) is overly simplified. The valves are open under some conditions above 12 mph (not all conditions). You can also feel this occasionally, like if you take an on-ramp corner slow or fast, the steering/yaw/g-sensor input will modify the system to open/close the valves and change the body roll angle automatically (without an override switch).

you can scroll through this page to see further discussion on the topic:
KDSS Long term reliability?

I can see the switch being useful under some scenarios such as high-speed washboards possibly, but otherwise it's not for me.

Also, back to the speed discussion, suspension cycling doesn't generally care about vehicle speed, it only cares about the "size" of the bump.

those 2 variables to keep it "off" when above 12mph that are posted in that thread will never happen when your going above 12mph off road. the switch is a HUGE difference. its great for anything off road IMO


oh, you have twin tube foam shocks....nvm.
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Old 09-03-2021, 06:58 PM #54
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lol, buy truck with KDSS. Delete KDSS. Smooth.
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Old 09-03-2021, 07:06 PM #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BorotHex View Post
lol, buy truck with KDSS. Delete KDSS. Smooth.

Lol. Commenting on something you have idea about is ďsmooth ď brained Disable KDSS with toggle switch?.


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Old 09-03-2021, 07:24 PM #56
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Disable KDSS with toggle switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo_mo View Post
Maybe try something other than Tapatalk... I don't know.

Anyways, if you read through the chain of what I was replying to, the question came up as to how does anyone know if the system is designed to handle 'high speed'.

If you go and click the link or do your own research, you will find out that your current understanding of the valves (to the accumulators...accumulators do not get electrical power here) is overly simplified. The valves are open under some conditions above 12 mph (not all conditions). You can also feel this occasionally, like if you take an on-ramp corner slow or fast, the steering/yaw/g-sensor input will modify the system to open/close the valves and change the body roll angle automatically (without an override switch).

you can scroll through this page to see further discussion on the topic:
KDSS Long term reliability?

I can see the switch being useful under some scenarios such as high-speed washboards possibly, but otherwise it's not for me.

Also, back to the speed discussion, suspension cycling doesn't generally care about vehicle speed, it only cares about the "size" of the bump.

Iíll keep it even more simple. Take the fuse out for the kdss. It will stay stiff as hell all the way through. Feels the same as anything over 12mph. It stays stiff and the ďaccumulatorsĒ stay closed and you canít even compress that kdss shocks even under 12mph or 4 lo. Trust me I actually put a hydraulic jack under the hanging kdss shock ( no sway bar connector ) and was able to lift the whole vehicle up. Thatís with the vehicle running. Turn if off and it will compress the kdss shock and vehicle lowers.

Pull the plug either outside at the kdss pump. Or pull it from inside where the kdss brain is at which interrupts the power to the valves , The accumulators stay open and the piston in the shocks can now move.

You should try it. Itís not only about high speed washboard per say. I mean 13mph is not fast at all and you can def feel how much less the cab rocks. You definitely have a better understanding of all the diagrams and whatís what. But itís like an electrical engineer never actually stepping into a building to see the insides and what not. Can you explain to me how when I tested pulling the fuse out , that it stayed stiff all the way no matter what speed and I canít compress the shocks Iím the kdss but as soon as I turn off the truck you can.

Also about suspension /Shocks. Especially high end shocks. Yes they depend on speed. Yes on size of bump too. But speed approaching those bumps can determine how the oil flows through the piston / shims / bleed holes. So what Iím saying is shocks are velocity sensitive. And then throw a bypass shock in there and now you can be position sensitive.


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Last edited by dom42; 09-04-2021 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 09-04-2021, 11:24 AM #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BorotHex View Post
lol, buy truck with KDSS. Delete KDSS. Smooth.
who said delete? it just switches it off for when you wanna be rowdy. turn it back on for the drive home. best of both worlds.
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Old 09-06-2021, 06:53 PM #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
Iíll keep it even more simple. Take the fuse out for the kdss. It will stay stiff as hell all the way through. Feels the same as anything over 12mph. It stays stiff and the ďaccumulatorsĒ stay closed and you canít even compress that kdss shocks even under 12mph or 4 lo. Trust me I actually put a hydraulic jack under the hanging kdss shock ( no sway bar connector ) and was able to lift the whole vehicle up. Thatís with the vehicle running. Turn if off and it will compress the kdss shock and vehicle lowers.

Pull the plug either outside at the kdss pump. Or pull it from inside where the kdss brain is at which interrupts the power to the valves , The accumulators stay open and the piston in the shocks can now move.

You should try it. Itís not only about high speed washboard per say. I mean 13mph is not fast at all and you can def feel how much less the cab rocks. You definitely have a better understanding of all the diagrams and whatís what. But itís like an electrical engineer never actually stepping into a building to see the insides and what not. Can you explain to me how when I tested pulling the fuse out , that it stayed stiff all the way no matter what speed and I canít compress the shocks Iím the kdss but as soon as I turn off the truck you can.

Also about suspension /Shocks. Especially high end shocks. Yes they depend on speed. Yes on size of bump too. But speed approaching those bumps can determine how the oil flows through the piston / shims / bleed holes. So what Iím saying is shocks are velocity sensitive. And then throw a bypass shock in there and now you can be position sensitive.


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Of note, there is no 'pump' unless you're treating the pistons as pumps.

Simple (2-way, 2 position) solenoid valves come in two flavors, normally open and normally closed (there are exceptions such as latching).

It sounds like pulling the fuse tells the electrical brain box to default the system to command the valves closed. This is probably for 'safety' to ensure body roll/stability is maintained under a simple electrical (fuse) failure case.

Pulling the plug at the solenoid/accumulator box disconnects the solenoids from the brains and they default to their normally open state.

Driving at a 6" square curb at 10 mph might be harsher than hitting that same bump at 60 mph depending upon where you are at in the natural frequency of the system (sometimes it's easier to drive faster and things smooth out than drive slower and things go bumpity bumpity).

It would be great if someone could take their phone (with a good mount), and run some tests over the same courses (whoops, washboards, etc.) to quantify harshness (vibration/shock mostly) along with body roll etch with the system on and off for comparison.
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Old 09-06-2021, 06:58 PM #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda250xtitan View Post
those 2 variables to keep it "off" when above 12mph that are posted in that thread will never happen when your going above 12mph off road. the switch is a HUGE difference. its great for anything off road IMO


oh, you have twin tube foam shocks....nvm.
Since it is a "HUGE" difference, can you quantify it into meaningful values for the rest of us...

I'm thinking about upgrading to monotube shocks with heim joints that have to be rebuilt every 3 months with increased NVH and extra leak joints because I want to pretend that I Baja 9999 this rig... no I'm not haha
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Old 09-07-2021, 12:03 AM #60
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Installed the Blackgate Customs switch a couple weeks ago, finally got to use it on some roads at Hollister Hills SVRA this past weekend. Actually forgot about it for most of my trip there (sigh) but remembered it towards the end.

For crawling it probably doesn't make a difference, but uh I had forgotten so I don't know.

For bombing down the dirt roads between fun places it was night and day. I was shocked. I had tried it around town, tried to find potholes to exercise it and couldn't tell a difference. On dirt roads (not washboarded, just rutted / etc) where we were going 25-35mph, it was almost like riding on a magic carpet.

The truck has 8112's in the front and 5160's in the rear (8100's in the garage ready to be installed when I have time). Aired down to ~20psi and it still made a huge difference.

I'm _very_ happy with it.
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