Never ending ordeal - Page 3 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

Hans Moleman · 06-20-2019, 04:41 PM

I wonder if Michelins will be better. Supposedly they make the "roundest" tires out of everyone else.

BCMUSA · 06-20-2019, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hans Moleman

I wonder if Michelins will be better. Supposedly they make the "roundest" tires out of everyone else.

At this point, I am willing to bet no.

Look at my road force numbers. Left tire is at 1lbs, the other at 4. That is VERY good, especially for an AT tire.

This was done at a local mom and pop shop who deals with FJ's, Tacos, and 4runners frequently. I trust him way more than the dealerships or big name tire shops.

Still having issues. I may take it back one last time to see what he thinks. I'm exhausted at this point.

Daikon · 06-20-2019, 04:51 PM

4 degrees seems like a lot for stock UCA.

Jagamov · 06-20-2019, 05:00 PM

Is there any way this is a lug nut torque issue? The factory wheels are lug centric correct?

Torque value seems a bit low in comparison (76 ft/lbs) to my Tundra and other vehicles I have had in the past.

BCMUSA, with all the tire changes, have you re-checked the torque just for shits and giggles?

BCMUSA · 06-20-2019, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jagamov

Is there any way this is a lug nut torque issue? The factory wheels are lug centric correct?

Torque value seems a bit low in comparison (76 ft/lbs) to my Tundra and other vehicles I have had in the past.

BCMUSA, with all the tire changes, have you re-checked the torque just for shits and giggles?

Yup. I torqued all 4 to 80ft/lbs.

Mutant138 · 06-20-2019, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daikon

4 degrees seems like a lot for stock UCA.

Good catch

Yeah idk why it's green on the print out it should be red for out of spec. Pretty sure it's something like 1.5 - 3 degrees is spec. I can't find the specs at a glance tho.

That would definitely explain the floaty front end. Not sure if that would contribute to wheel vibration. BUT be aware that this could be more then one issue at the same time. Maybe a bad alignment and balancing.

The fact that your wheels where fine but then you dropped pressure and got the issue again makes me think it was a "close enough" wheel jobber paired with a bad alignment.

@BMCUSA

BCMUSA · 06-20-2019, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutant138

Good catch

Yeah idk why it's green on the print out it should be red for out of spec. Pretty sure it's something like 1.5 - 3 degrees is spec. I can't find the specs at a glance tho.

That would definitely explain the floaty front end. Not sure if that would contribute to wheel vibration. BUT be aware that this could be more then one issue at the same time. Maybe a bad alignment and balancing.

The fact that your wheels where fine but then you dropped pressure and got the issue again makes me think it was a "close enough" wheel jobber paired with a bad alignment.

@BMCUSA

Since I am going back to the shop to have them take a look, what numbers should I tell them to try and get to for alignment?

SoCalRunner · 06-20-2019, 05:35 PM

I read somewhere that warped rotors can cause vibration in the steering wheel.

Though, I'm sure somebody would have noticed during all the balancing.

nimby · 06-20-2019, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutant138

Good catch

Yeah idk why it's green on the print out it should be red for out of spec. Pretty sure it's something like 1.5 - 3 degrees is spec. I can't find the specs at a glance tho.

That would definitely explain the floaty front end. Not sure if that would contribute to wheel vibration. BUT be aware that this could be more then one issue at the same time. Maybe a bad alignment and balancing.

The fact that your wheels where fine but then you dropped pressure and got the issue again makes me think it was a "close enough" wheel jobber paired with a bad alignment.

@BMCUSA

A lot of people around here have thier caster pushed up to 4*. I do in my truck and it handles really well like this. Tracks great, stearing snaps back into place quickly and no wobbles.

What's interesting is BCM's alignment sheet says 4.5* is the upper end of caster spec whereas I thought it said 4* was the upper limit on my alignment sheet.

Mutant138 · 06-20-2019, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCMUSA

Since I am going back to the shop to have them take a look, what numbers should I tell them to try and get to for alignment?

I'm trying to find that out. Factory alignment specs are not popping up in my searches.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCalRunner

I read somewhere that warped rotors can cause vibration in the steering wheel.

Though, I'm sure somebody would have noticed during all the balancing.

That's not it. There would be alot more vibrations at different speeds and under breaking.

BCMUSA · 06-20-2019, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimby

I have stock UCAs and have my caster pushed up to 4*. It handles really well like this. No wobbles.

What's interesting is BCM's alignment sheet says 4.5* is the upper end of caster spec whereas I thought it said 4* was the upper limit on my alignment sheet.

I am thinking he may have played with the settings on the computer to make it look like it's in the green, because I know technically 4* is not in the green for the specs Toyota calls for on this vehicle.

mrblah · 06-20-2019, 06:01 PM

I had vibrating in my steering wheels when I went to 285 on stock trail wheels, that never went away. It only vibrated intermittently at highway speeds.

The only way I got rid of it was to replace the wheels (I was upgrading them anyways)

You may want to try and borrow someone else's extra set of wheels if you can.

Daikon · 06-20-2019, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCMUSA

I am thinking he may have played with the settings on the computer to make it look like it's in the green, because I know technically 4* is not in the green for the specs Toyota calls for on this vehicle.

I have 4* but I also have camburg ball joint UCA's.

I'm not an expert but I think stock is around 1-2*. When you push it to 4* on stock UCA/LCA, i THINK that causes the bushings to 'bind'.

Again, not an expert but something worth looking into.
@BCMUSA

are you using stock wheels with stock lug nuts that are seated correctly?

Mutant138 · 06-20-2019, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCMUSA

I am thinking he may have played with the settings on the computer to make it look like it's in the green, because I know technically 4* is not in the green for the specs Toyota calls for on this vehicle.

2.5-4 degrees is what you are shooting for and it's tire size dependant. Bigger the tires the closer to 4 you need to be. So if your running stock tire size it might be worth it to dial it back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nimby

A lot of people around here have thier caster pushed up to 4*. I do in my truck and it handles really well like this. Tracks great, stearing snaps back into place quickly and no wobbles.

What's interesting is BCM's alignment sheet says 4.5* is the upper end of caster spec whereas I thought it said 4* was the upper limit on my alignment sheet.

Ah yeah sorry I was having a hell of a time finding actual specs. It would appear that 2.5-4 or more is optimal for our trucks. Just seems kinda crazy to me but w.e.

Mutant138 · 06-20-2019, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daikon

I have 4* but I also have camburg ball joint UCA's.

I'm not an expert but I think stock is around 1-2*. When you push it to 4* on stock UCA/LCA, i THINK that causes the bushings to 'bind'.

Again, not an expert but something worth looking into.

I would guess stocks optimal caster is 2.5 at the bottom of the range due to the 265's.

Binding might cause some weird handling...

Site Navigation