While investigating a fishing spot in the smokies this past weekend, I drove down a trail in the woods I probably shouldn't have. I was sure there was a good spot to fish at the end but turns out it just lead to a nasty old muddy homemade boat launch point that some locals must use with no where to turn around, so backed back out.

Anyway, on the way down and then on the way backing out, sure enough, I got a some nice pinstripes in the clear coat from the front quarter-panel all the way down to the end of the rear.

Just looking for advice, if I use the meguiars scratch stuff from one end to the next, will the result be more noticeable than just leaving the trail rash? Afraid if I process the whole thing, it will just look worse in a bigger area. 99% sure it's just in the clear coat, but on the black paint it looks like I got keyed, twice!

I searched and read through a few threads, just wanted some current thoughts. TIA

Well if the scratches aren't too deep, then you can buff them out. But you will need a high speed buffer and know what you are doing. If not, get them professionally buffed out.

You do NOT need a high speed orbital buffer.

All you need is a dual-action buffer which makes it basically impossible for any ol' shmuck to mess their paint up.

Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital

It works just as effectively as an orbital buffer in regards to removing pinstripes and I've even used it to remove 90% of noticeable scrapes from a sideswipe with a cement pillar on someone's car before. The only downside is that it takes more time to use since it isn't high speed, but whatever, we're hobbyists after all.

You can use something like HD Adapt and a microfiber buffing pad and with a couple of hours of work, you can have both sides of your car pinstripe-free.

This is exactly how I removed 100% of the pinstriping from my own 4Runner after a run-in with a very overgrown trail in Washington.

You can diminish the appearance of scratches by hand with a careful use of polishing compound.

First, you need to understand that scratches are only obvious because the edges are sharp (like a V). Knock down the sharp edges and the scratch virtually disappears because light no longer reflects the same way.

What I've done is as follows:

Wash the car well using a dish soap to remove all wax (at least use dish soap on those areas where there are the scratches you want to remove.

Get a can of polishing compound and a bucket of warm water. You'll also need a couple of micro-fiber cloths (without sewn on tags).

Very carefully (emphasis on the very carefully), put a blob of the polishing compound on the end of the scratch. Use the wet cloth to very carefully (did I say very carefully and lightly), rub over the scratch in the direction of the scratch. This goes against the grain of the usual detailing tips of going in circular motions, but remember that the entire goal is to knock off that sharp edge.

This is a repetitive job as it will take several light (very careful) passes and rinses to get it right.

Once it is fixes, that area may be far nicer than the rest of the car, so you'll want to polish and wax the whole car.

Good luck

+1 on the 6” Griots Random orbital. Completely took out scratches on my girlfriends ‘17 SR5. Used with correcting cream, their products are superior, highly reccomend!

I may try this first. Do I rub back and forth in the direction of the scratch (like 6" then move to the next 6", or just once in the direction of the whole length?

Are all polishing compounds the same, or is one recommended?

Since i don't own a buffer, would like to try this first. Not looking for perfection, just don't want it to look so obvious as it stands out from all the other little pinstripes.

Any modern compound that is equivalent or better than a Meguiar's brand will yield similar results. Some are just easier to use or faster to use or blah blah blah but ultimately, the results will be the same. Some have a "harder" cut which is better for deep scratches and generally requires a second pass with a less aggressive abrasion.

I personally recommend that product I posted, HD Adapt, as it tends to behave dependent on your pad choice instead of having to have multiple products. So you can use it on a more abrasive pad for the deeper stuff and then use the same product on a less abrasive pad for the finishing touch.

I've used my DA polisher buffing pads by hand before so if you wanted to just buy some of the pads and then buy the polisher sometime in the future when you realize that you can eliminate 80% of the elbow grease, you won't have to waste extra money.




Just keep in mind, there's a lot of old dogs that hang around these and other forums and they tend to be super skeptical of advancements in technology.

Seriously though, with the right products, it's nearly impossible to damage your paint during paint correction unless you're at a point of doing wet sanding. And if you're at that point, you're either incredibly confident in your body work skills, or a big dum dum that doesn't know what they're doing.

Meguires ultimate compound and light hand polishing works well on pinstriping

Interesting that you recommend a "dual-action buffer" and then leave off the word "buffer" on your link. If you click on the link the actual item is a random orbital "polisher". Obviously this was no accident.

You also said it is "Impossible for any ol' shmuck to mess up their paint up" but then in another post someone said "Use the wet cloth to very carefully (did I say very carefully and lightly), rub over the scratch in the direction of the scratch."

All I can say is, good luck.

I use a dual action buffer from harbor freight with their pads and the meguars polish. I have used high speed buffers before and there is a much higher possibility of going through the finish with that type of tool. Typically if the scratch disappeArs when wet, then it can be buffed out. Theres a lot if material on youtube for these sorts of repairs alao.

Or I'm just writing on the internet and not too concerned about pedantics in reference to a car forum post about some pretty damn basic paint maintenance and that the point was still conveyed via direct URL links. So indeed, an "accident".

I've detailed dozens of cars and removed multiple instances of pinstripes and more extreme scratches using the exact products I listed and the exact methods I described. I don't need luck and neither do the thousands of other people that successfully detail their own vehicles with minimal up front knowledge and cost.

Feel free to poke around some of the fundamentals here since you apparently find me untrustworthy and were apparently offended that I'm giving the guy usable advice instead of acting like it's some scary process that he will more than likely mess up if he even tries.

Seriously people, with where car detailing technology is today, anyone can do this shit. It's really ****ing easy and has a trivial amount of risk. It's not he 1980's anymore.

You were doing this in the 80's? Wow, you're an old dog.

Are you here to just be a shitstick? Cause if you are.. congrats on being successful.

So you don't have any problems with someone making a comment that another's opinion is bullshit because they are an "old dog"?

Since you are being very, very careful and are just rubbing very lightly, I've found that doing a small section (a couple of inches) at a time works well. Remember that you buff lightly, wash, buff lightly, wash and repeat.

You'll see very quickly if it works. Again, all you need to do is knock off the sharp corner of the scratch to make it go away.

I had gotten a long scratch on my Yukon from a errant branch back in 1999 right after I moved to the DC area. I was living in a rented appt with no garage or access to electricity (not that I owned a Porter Cable back then). I got a bucket of water, got a tub of polishing compound and fixed that in a couple of hours. It was tempting to speed things up by buffing harder but you must resist that temptation.

Today I'd probably do it with my Porter Cable (DA) but doing it manually worked fine.

Meguiars or 3M will work fine. I've even fixed minor scratches on the road with toothpaste - it smells minty fresh afterwards, but I wouldn't recommend that unless you have lots of experience.

Be very very gentle. Many gentle passes are better than one ham fisted one.