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Old 07-17-2019, 06:43 PM #16
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Toyota 0w20 is really runny at low temperature compared to other 0w20s from Mobil 1, Amsoil and Redline.

Properties for Toyota are here Genuine Toyota Synthetic SAE 0W-20 API SN

properties for others are available elsewhere but they all have much higher viscosities at low temps - as temperatures decrease, the difference in viscosity of the other oils vs Toyota increases. Their viscosities at 0 deg. C are ~70-90% higher than Toyota oil.

You see this when using viscosity calculators such as this one Calculate viscosity at given temperature | Nimac Great Britain

I haven’t heard of any engine failures due to using Mobile 1 or any other 0w20 brand of oil over the long term. So, I suspect there’s decent tolerance in these engines for such tomfooolery as using after market 0w20 or even 5w20.

Also per the link to Toyota oil spec above, the back of the Toyota bottle shows it’s good for gas engines requiring 0w20/5w20. Maybe that’s a typo?

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Old 07-17-2019, 07:27 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eelliiss View Post
I also think that the gas mileage decrease, however slight, over the 10k mile interval would negate the savings on oil by far.

Also, sign up for Pennzoil and Mobil 1 notifications. They regularly offer $10 and $12 off five quart jugs. You can also go to their websites and see what they offer now.
^ This.

I recently ordered two 5-quart bottles of Pennzoil 0W-20 to try out. The rebate period just closed, but they have one every year. $10 off any 5-quart bottle up to $20 off (full price is @ $23 on amazon, so nearly half off). Submitted the rebate form online for the two bottles, and received a check for $20 the same week.

Also, Havoline Pro DS 0W-20 comes in a 6-quart box for about $20 through Walmart (online). At that price, a DIY oil change with oem parts costs less than $30. Cheap enough?
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:45 PM #18
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Stop!.....too much BS. Mobil makes Toyota's 0/20 and it has minor tweaks to the add-package...it is not magical. 5/20 is fine....and this same exact motor in other parts of the world is allowed to run up to 10/30 with a full warranty. No....it won't blow up...no the VVT doesn't care. It comes down to CAFE requirements and using the most low drag oil they can spec to achieve the numbers. Does my 4Runner KNOW it isn't in Puerto Rico? Does my Truck have any part numbers in the Engine that are ''North American Only''? Does the fact it is way hotter where I live than anywhere on the planet but Death Valley mean I can't run 5/20? No,No,No and I do run 5/20 Valvoline Synth and Mo1. Toyota has spec's for running various oils based on a range of temps for many models over the last 42 years I have driven them......until CAFE and CARB got involved and twisted some arms to get what they want from the Manufacturers. Politics and Lawyers are dictating it more that the Engines inability to use several weights of oil safely.......Relax.
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:05 PM #19
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1.) Besides saving $3-$5 per oil change, what motivates you to want to deviate from Toyota’s recommendation?

2.) Personally, I’ve never seen an engine failure that was caused by using slightly incorrect viscosity oil.
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Old 07-18-2019, 02:24 AM #20
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We run nothing less than 5w30.. most Toyotas around here run 20w50 weight oils. Our environment is extremely hot that thinner oils don't exist

Like mentioned above, recommended oil weight is determined not only by engine specs, but also fuel and emissions targets as well.

Most people run into problems not due to different oil weights, but neglecting timely maintenance of oil and fluids in general.
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:41 PM #21
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Here's the comparison of the oil I was wanting to try next. This stuff shows to be a great oil. The first link is the 0W-20 and the second is the same oil in 5w-20. I understand that this is trivial and not spending the green for the health of the car can be seen as controversial but this was just a question on why the prices vary on weight.

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-5500...-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-5500...-1-spons&psc=1
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:07 PM #22
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Keep in mind the narrower the range in weight the longer the oil stays in spec.........5-20 will hold it's Add-Pack longer....10/60 would fall out sooner. With correct intervals it's not an issue......stretch the OCI and get accelerated wear. I go 7500 but it seems 10K is fine with a quality synth oil.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:19 PM #23
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What about straight 50 weight?
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:04 PM #24
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50 would be too heavy and drop oil pressure on start-up, plus cut mpg. You want the lightest weight that will get the job done at operating temp so 20 is fine for most usage....30 for severe heat. If you live in sub-zero the 0/20 makes the most sense at start-up but even a 5/20 is only a fraction heavier at freezing. Anything over 40 degrees or so and there is no functional difference between the two.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:10 PM #25
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Well,, I switch to 0-30 in the summer due to heat and I tow a travel trailer in the summer. My instinct tells me that is better protection than 0-20.



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Old 07-19-2019, 09:09 PM #26
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Well,, I switch to 0-30 in the summer due to heat and I tow a travel trailer in the summer. My instinct tells me that is better protection than 0-20.



.
That’s an interesting choice. Any reason 5w30 wouldn’t work, to close the spread a little plus it’s summer temperatures.

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Old 07-19-2019, 09:13 PM #27
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50 would be too heavy and drop oil pressure on start-up, plus cut mpg. You want the lightest weight that will get the job done at operating temp so 20 is fine for most usage....30 for severe heat. If you live in sub-zero the 0/20 makes the most sense at start-up but even a 5/20 is only a fraction heavier at freezing. Anything over 40 degrees or so and there is no functional difference between the two.
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:44 PM #28
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keeping in simple terms, the first number 0 or 5 is the weight of the oil when its cold. the second number is for when the oil is hot. So, say you have a turbo car in Alaska, your probably going to want to run a very low first number so the oil circulates through the engine/turbo faster so it doesn't cause damages.

I have a high hp turbo Honda and I normally run Mobil 1 (0w40) I am running a higher second number for added protection as turbo cars run very hot.

Running 5w20 won't kill your motor. Unless you can't find any other oil, I would just use 0w20
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Old 07-19-2019, 11:51 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanB View Post
When we bought our 5th gen used the dealer had changed the oil, I drove it like that for about 5000kms and found the performance underwhelming.

I changed the oil early for this reason, used 0w20 and the difference was very noticeable right away, engine was more eager to rev, and had way more power in the upper revs, my theory is whatever weight bulk oil they used wasn't allowing the vvti to work properly, and made the truck a real dog, hopefully no damage was caused (I strongly doubt it), but it really drove home how picky these engines are about oil.

Use the right stuff, buy a case when it comes on sale, the oil change interval is LONG on these trucks so it's not like you'll have to do it every 3 months or anything.
They must have installed straight 90W
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