[osugsxr]

Recently retrofitted a 2022 head unit to a 2017 4runner. I had a sony 8100 and I'm missing the additional power to the speakers. I'm not looking for anything over the top just more of a good budget build and more sound.

front speakers
Focal Inside IS TOY 690
Rear & hatch
powerbass oe652-ty 6.5''


Considering the following for a simple install,

AudioControl ACM-4.300 4-Channel Micro Amplifier
Taco tunes PNP speaker harness ( other options?)
BOSS Audio Systems KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit

The ACM doesnt require a dedicated remote line and solid reviews. As for the taco tunes PNP I could probably buy the 2020 or the 2017 wiring harness. Since I have the transplant harness from auto harness either one will work. The PNP could be plugged directly into the radio or in between the car harness to the transplant.

[Bobby12many]

The OE 22 headunit has built in filters, EQ and phase-adjustments that are also making things sound worse than your Sony (the Sony was a better audio unit, period).

To help with that, I would suggest using a Kicker KEY amp for this application. They have an "auto-EQ" dsp functionality that aims to fix the factory filters/EQ/phase for aftermarket speakers. Easy to setup, pretty cheap and have a solid reputation.

Kicker 47KEY200.4 Compact 4-channel car amplifier with automatic tuning DSP — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

Skip the Audio control amp... while they are powerful, they are not a great value, especially in your case.

The Boss install kit and TT PNP Harness should work fine - you can also use standard "9-wire / speed wire" to to make the loopback harness for amplification yourself, but the TT harness will make things a bit more straight forward.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Bobby12many

The OE 22 headunit has built in filters, EQ and phase-adjustments that are also making things sound worse than your Sony (the Sony was a better audio unit, period).

To help with that, I would suggest using a Kicker KEY amp for this application. They have an "auto-EQ" dsp functionality that aims to fix the factory filters/EQ/phase for aftermarket speakers. Easy to setup, pretty cheap and have a solid reputation.

Kicker 47KEY200.4 Compact 4-channel car amplifier with automatic tuning DSP — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

Skip the Audio control amp... while they are powerful, they are not a great value, especially in your case.

The Boss install kit and TT PNP Harness should work fine - you can also use standard "9-wire / speed wire" to to make the loopback harness for amplification yourself, but the TT harness will make things a bit more straight forward.

checked that amp out and looks solid but majority of the places are sold out. Also not 100% sure how to wire it up , its been a few years since I've done amps. I've done amps on aftermarket stereos with remote wiring and rcas. How would I run the remote wire for the amp?

This will be a first with a stock head unit and using the T-harness from taco tunes. What is the "9-wire / speed wire" , how would I install that?

I'm not too picky on the EQ settings etc but yes the sony was better sounding. Think I just want more power to up the sound overall.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

Considering the same. I recently installed a TGP Sony Ax6000 unit…it just would not maintain a wireless CarPlay connection. So after all kinds of troubleshooting I just un-installed and went back to my factory unit. Surprisingly, the OEM setup seemed to have more volume running over my Focal separates up front and coax’s in the rear doors due to the processing in the unit.

So I am thinking about picking up a 3-channel JL XD amp. I can pick up the high level signal on my front stage right before my crossovers and then pass back 75WPC to the fronts. The rears run off the headunit and I have 300WPC for a JL Stealthbox sub with a bass knob. No wire harnesses needed behind the headunit. Everything receives the same “processing” albeit with the fronts getting more power. Stealthy install and completely reversible.

I hear all the discussion about the headunit processing but in all honesty it sounds pretty good with the Focals and I just want more power. I could go a JL VXi route to have DSP functionality but that is still over the OEM signal…And I really don’t want the addition of a JL Fix 82. Guess you could do the same with a DSP AudioContol amp. I could also do an 5-channel option without DSP. All would also require a patch harness to tap high level leads and the pass back the speaker leads.

My only question is if the OEM headunit processing is really all that bad with noted issues of bass roll of at higher levels. Seems to me a DSP amp is a waste if not fixing the signal and in my case, I am just concerned about getting the right balance between amplified separates up front, headunit driving the rears and a sub with a bass knob constantly fighting roll of….and is it really worth the extra grand to try to fix it or just go with a 3-channel config and call it a day.

Lots to consider but a simple 4x50 setup would seem to be a cost effective straightforward option.

yes think that is what im going for 4x50 -75 range to power the speakers. Right now I'm looking at about $300-400 range for amp, amp kit and T harness.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

Don't need 9-wire if you buy the TT harness. The TT harness does the following:

Head unit>TT female connector>high level wiring to amp. Then you can attach RCAs for something like a JL amp or direct speaker level connection to the amp.

Then you attach the TT harness to the speaker outputs on the amp. The signal is returned to the male end of the TT patch harness that plugs in to the factory wiring that runs out to all the speakers.

looks like this: HU>Female connector>leads to amp>RCA plug (if needed)>amp>speaker output back to HU>male connector>factory harness.

9-wire basically takes the place of the speaker level leads to/from the amp. You still would need the female and male connector ends to make your own. None of this is needed with the TT harness.

read up on the 9 wire here, would be fairly simple it seems. I can solder if needed too, just need to find the connector harness at the radio. Pending how its ran could probably get away with just 20ft of wiring , if under the driver/passenger seat


How to connect an amplifier to a factory stereo

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Bobby12many

The OE 22 headunit has built in filters, EQ and phase-adjustments that are also making things sound worse than your Sony (the Sony was a better audio unit, period).

To help with that, I would suggest using a Kicker KEY amp for this application. They have an "auto-EQ" dsp functionality that aims to fix the factory filters/EQ/phase for aftermarket speakers. Easy to setup, pretty cheap and have a solid reputation.

Kicker 47KEY200.4 Compact 4-channel car amplifier with automatic tuning DSP — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield

Skip the Audio control amp... while they are powerful, they are not a great value, especially in your case.

The Boss install kit and TT PNP Harness should work fine - you can also use standard "9-wire / speed wire" to to make the loopback harness for amplification yourself, but the TT harness will make things a bit more straight forward.

current speakers
front : Focal Inside IS TOY 690. 4ohms rms 75w. 150w peak
rear & hatch : powerbass oe652-ty 6.5'' 60 watts RMS (120 watts peak). ....these are in line together so how does this affect the RMS wattage I can run to them?

The amps below are 50w RMS, would I notice much difference if i jump up to 60-75w RMS amps?

considering the following amps
AudioControl ACM-4.300. .;...$200-250 range
Kicker 47KEY200.4. automatic tuning DSP /EQ would this help much with settings? unable to find except ebay.
Hertz HCP Series 4

Do like the idea of the kicker and the DSP/EQ seems like a better idea for better sound quality.

[Ripper238]

Double post...

[Ripper238]

I tried my best to keep the stock head unit and it just didn't work well with its hi level output and its EQ and phase-adjustments. DSP really didn't work/help ether.

So i did it all. Kenwood DMX head unit, Alpine 6 channel amp with Alpine X series components up front ad the rest. Soooo much better!

System is only as good as its weakest component.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Ripper238

I tried my best to keep the stock head unit and it just didn't work well with its hi level output and its EQ and phase-adjustments. DSP really didn't work/help ether.

So i did it all. Kenwood DMX head unit, Alpine 6 channel amp with Alpine X series components up front ad the rest. Soooo much better!

System is only as good as its weakest component.

agree it is, Im just looking for more output basically to power the speakers. I enjoyed the higher sounds levels with the sony 8100 but wanted that stock look. An addition of an amp will help for the time being and hopefully long term.


found the Kicker 47KEY200.4 at local shop at $249, will be going this route. Debating 9 wire or just taco tunes

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

PAC Audio just updated their 4Runner harness to be more plug and play with clip connectors for the speaker leads....also you can purchase longer leads to/from your amp to basically remove all soldering.

Vehicle Specific Audio Integration T-Harness - PAC

what would I need to complete this install from them?

Kicker amp $249
boss amp install kit $20

wiring which route
TT harness $75

or

pac audio....what is needed?

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

Same thing for your purpose...pick one:

1. PAC ($59) with 9-wire ($29) and solder the 9-wire; or
2. PAC ($59) with ($59) clip extensions to reach the amp; or
3. TT ($75) plug and go....plenty of speaker lead to/from amp; or
4. Metra Male/Female connectors ($35) with 9-wire ($29) and solder the connectors and 9-wire

thanks for the clarification, think the TT PNP is the reasonable option to save on time. Ill in be in at about $370 total for a decent upgrade hopefully.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

Same thing for your purpose...pick one:

1. PAC ($59) with 9-wire ($29) and solder the 9-wire; or
2. PAC ($59) with ($59) clip extensions to reach the amp; or
3. TT ($75) plug and go....plenty of speaker lead to/from amp; or
4. Metra Male/Female connectors ($35) with 9-wire ($29) and solder the connectors and 9-wire

Assume its possible to just use 9 wire and solder it all? Cut the speaker wires at the harness area?

wires coming out of the radio goto input on the amp.

other line runs to out put on amp

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

Dude don’t cut anything! Spend the $75 and get the TT harness. If you ever want to uninstall it then you just unplug and it is back to OEM. You really don’t want to hack the factory harness.

I wouldn’t, id buy a jumper harness and cut that. I’m probably going to use the tt harness to keep it simple.


jumper

$20
Add a Subwoofer to 2018+ Toyota - Speaker Signals


same as AHH?

$13.99
Amazon.com


Then find about 20 ft of 9 wire....

@Dude what gauge 9 speed wire should I use, assuming amazon is cheapest route.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

I totally missed the fact that you retrofitted a OEM Entune 3.0 unit...I assume using the conversion harness from Autoharnesshouse.com. That makes things even easier. The older Enture 2.0 headunit has the speaker leads coming out of the headunit on two separate plugs. So in your situation, you have a 3.0 single plug on one end and a 2.0 dual plug layout on the other....so when you want to add an amp, you have two options: before the conversion harness using a single plug tap (as shown in your link above) or after the conversion harness using a two plug tap (like the one shown by Tacotunes).

Simple setup is before the conversion harness...cut that $20 harness in half and then solder the 9-wire directly to it going to and returning from the amp. Then you basically install this patch harness right before the Enture 3.0 to Entune 2.0 conversion harness. So it would look like the image below.

As for 9-wire....I used an InstallBay product....was 18GA and flexible for routing to the amp.

Looking at it again it would probably be
Entune 3.0 Headunit => Jumper Harness => [Amp Input - Amp Output] => Jumper Harness => Transplant Harness


Is the one from amazon the same , in few post above? Seems like this is the cheaper route to take, soldering isnt too bad of a task.

[osugsxr]

Originally Posted by Dude

Appears to be the same. And that is correct sequence.

I was overthinking this lol...that harness is just a replacement one, same exact one in the radio now. Basically a spare incase I want go back to stock. I was thinking I needed both