08-01-2019, 12:31 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jul 2017
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Orange County California
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Real Name: Christoph
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Clunk/knock front pass side over bumps - SOLVED!!
Hey there fellow T4R'ers,
Just noticed a pretty gnarly knocking/clunking type sound coming from front pass side when going over anything even remotely close to being a bump. I diagnosed it coming from the front pass side by standing on my slidders and rocking the rig pretty aggresively (gotta say, just another advantage to having those slidders) - & it only happens on the pass side when standing & rocking that side.
After jacking up my 4R & checking all components + searching other related threads - I'm hoping it could be 1 of 2 things. Either my UCA's need a serious amount of greasing (although would the UCA needing grease cause a 'knocking' sound? Or would that be more of a creak/squeek ). OR could this be due to my new sway bar bushing with a little gap in it?? I don't see how the bushing would cause such a knocking sound either though because it's super snug in the bracket & loaded with fresh grease.
These bushings are the 29mm polyurethane bushings by Whiteline (the ones that are recomended for our 5th gens). I don't really want to go back to the OEM ones, but I guess I can do that to help diagnose this issue & see if the clunk goes away. BUT what other size (in mm's) would I get for this sway bar because I want the poly ones?? Anyones else go 30mm, 31mm, 32mm, etc...?? Here's a pic of the gap for reference:
Thanks!!!
*EDIT: this pic was the driver side sway bar bracket. If only I would have concentrated on the passenger side to begin with....
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3" lift up front courtesy of 5100 Billys & Toytec HD coils + top hat spacers, 5160 Billys in rear w/ Toytec Superflex 2" coils, front Wheelers bumpstops/2" rear Toytec bumpstop drop, TRD Pro skid, Icon UCA's, Pelfreybilt sliders, HID's & LED's galore, full MBRP Catback, K&N CAI, Fuel Tactic 17x9's -12mm , 285/70/17 Cooper STT Pros, Total Chaos BMC kit, etc..etc..blah, blah
Last edited by ScarfaceT4R; 08-04-2019 at 01:47 AM.
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08-01-2019, 12:33 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2014
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It seems like there has been an influx of these "front end knocking/squeaking/popping" threads popping up lately, my own included.
Not sure what's going.
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08-01-2019, 12:41 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Jul 2017
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gecko
It seems like there has been an influx of these "front end knocking/squeaking/popping" threads popping up lately, my own included.
Not sure what's going.
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Do you have aftermarket UCA's, or sway bar bushings by chance?
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3" lift up front courtesy of 5100 Billys & Toytec HD coils + top hat spacers, 5160 Billys in rear w/ Toytec Superflex 2" coils, front Wheelers bumpstops/2" rear Toytec bumpstop drop, TRD Pro skid, Icon UCA's, Pelfreybilt sliders, HID's & LED's galore, full MBRP Catback, K&N CAI, Fuel Tactic 17x9's -12mm , 285/70/17 Cooper STT Pros, Total Chaos BMC kit, etc..etc..blah, blah
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08-01-2019, 01:00 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gecko
It seems like there has been an influx of these "front end knocking/squeaking/popping" threads popping up lately, my own included.
Not sure what's going.
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Add me to this list also post lift install.
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08-01-2019, 01:10 PM
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#5
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Double check your UCA mounting bolt - the long one that goes through both bushings. Mine seems to work its way loose about once a year. I don't know why that's the case, but it does. And it makes a slight clunk when it's loose. I really should put a double nut on it with some loctite.
One other area I've found to clunk is the front engine skid plate. If one of the bolts isn't tight it will shift a bit and make a similar sound.
Otherwise I'd just check all the other mounting nuts and bolts to make sure they're tight.
good luck
Last edited by Jetboy; 08-01-2019 at 01:14 PM.
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08-01-2019, 01:39 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jul 2017
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy
Double check your UCA mounting bolt - the long one that goes through both bushings. Mine seems to work its way loose about once a year. I don't know why that's the case, but it does. And it makes a slight clunk when it's loose. I really should put a double nut on it with some loctite.
One other area I've found to clunk is the front engine skid plate. If one of the bolts isn't tight it will shift a bit and make a similar sound.
Otherwise I'd just check all the other mounting nuts and bolts to make sure they're tight.
good luck
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I will DEFINITELY check that long UCA bolt as I can see that being a potential clunk area. Do you happen to remember torque spec & nut size?
Seems more like the case rather than the skid plate just because the sounds is specific to the pass side only
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3" lift up front courtesy of 5100 Billys & Toytec HD coils + top hat spacers, 5160 Billys in rear w/ Toytec Superflex 2" coils, front Wheelers bumpstops/2" rear Toytec bumpstop drop, TRD Pro skid, Icon UCA's, Pelfreybilt sliders, HID's & LED's galore, full MBRP Catback, K&N CAI, Fuel Tactic 17x9's -12mm , 285/70/17 Cooper STT Pros, Total Chaos BMC kit, etc..etc..blah, blah
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08-01-2019, 02:15 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScarfaceT4R
I will DEFINITELY check that long UCA bolt as I can see that being a potential clunk area. Do you happen to remember torque spec & nut size?
Seems more like the case rather than the skid plate just because the sounds is specific to the pass side only
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I don't remember the size or torque. You can't fit a torque wrench in there IIRC. I just go by feel and what the rubber bushings look like. I'd bet it's something like 70 lb/ft. But that's just a guess.
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08-01-2019, 04:07 PM
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#8
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Following this...I picked up my T4R Limited with a Toytect boss on it. I thought it was the XREAS lines that were left on unattached smacking around causing the noise, but I took those out and my clunk on that pass side is still there. I have SPC UCA also. Ive not found anything else loose that I have smacked around on so far.
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08-02-2019, 01:51 AM
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#9
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That long bolt in uca will knock when reversing and braking...more so than going over bumps. Mine worked loose on passenger side. It was a bi-otch getting a torque wrench on it but we did after sdding loctite. If i remember right it was like 125 ft lb?
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08-02-2019, 06:44 AM
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#10
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if you've had a recent alignment i would check lower control arm bolts. i chased a noise on mine for a long time
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08-03-2019, 12:20 PM
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#11
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the long bolt that goes through the upper control arm...should the metal washers be completely flat against the mounts? I have SPC uppers, and there is a gap on all of mine...so I have a feeling it should maybe be that way?
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08-03-2019, 03:58 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jul 2017
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YouTube
Link to vid I took of the clunk for comparison to everyone else's. I have literally checked the torque on every component mentioned and everything is fine. driving me nuts...
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3" lift up front courtesy of 5100 Billys & Toytec HD coils + top hat spacers, 5160 Billys in rear w/ Toytec Superflex 2" coils, front Wheelers bumpstops/2" rear Toytec bumpstop drop, TRD Pro skid, Icon UCA's, Pelfreybilt sliders, HID's & LED's galore, full MBRP Catback, K&N CAI, Fuel Tactic 17x9's -12mm , 285/70/17 Cooper STT Pros, Total Chaos BMC kit, etc..etc..blah, blah
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08-03-2019, 10:40 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScarfaceT4R
YouTube
Link to vid I took of the clunk for comparison to everyone else's. I have literally checked the torque on every component mentioned and everything is fine. driving me nuts...
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Thanks for the video! Is it possible that the swaybar is hitting the skid plate?
Is it possible the end of the swaybar or the end link is hitting the coil of the coilover?
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08-03-2019, 11:36 PM
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#14
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Can u get another set of eyes to look down there?
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08-03-2019, 11:58 PM
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#15
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Problem found!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by teotwaki
Thanks for the video! Is it possible that the swaybar is hitting the skid plate?
Is it possible the end of the swaybar or the end link is hitting the coil of the coilover?
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So I believe this may be a one off issue...
Sway bar def doesn't hit the skid & the sway bar is good & away from the coil & links due to the sway bar relocation kit. BUT that relocation kit was the problem!! After removing the wheel to inspect tie rod ends thinking that could be the prob...nope, thing was super tight and has a lot of life in it - when (super frustrated) about to put the wheel back on, I noticed the spacer used to relocate the sway bar had a little gap at one end & I could even see the bolt in between the frame & spacer!!
*I have circled this in blue in the picture below.
After removing the skid to get to the sway bar bracket/relocation kit easier, I noticed that the problem bolt wasn't tight at all. In fact, while trying to remove it - it would not even spin out!! Turns out the threaded "nut" within the frame broke out of its tacweld or whatever Toyota uses to secure it. I had to pry off the frame plug (also shown in the second picture where the relocation kit/bracket is now fixed) - & stick my finger in the frame to secure the loose nut to get a solid torque on it. Now that it's tight I'm wondering just how long it's going to last BUT it seems super tight now & I made sure to lather it in red loctite.
The clunk is now completely 100% gone . But for how long... Even closed up a little bit of the gap I have on that polyurethane sway bar bushing. For anyone paying attention, I ordered the 29mm bushing as recommended by Whiteline. Measured the sway bar today with my new digital caliper & it reads 30.5mm. Not going to stress the gap for now.
Oh, and R.I.P. frame plug...
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3" lift up front courtesy of 5100 Billys & Toytec HD coils + top hat spacers, 5160 Billys in rear w/ Toytec Superflex 2" coils, front Wheelers bumpstops/2" rear Toytec bumpstop drop, TRD Pro skid, Icon UCA's, Pelfreybilt sliders, HID's & LED's galore, full MBRP Catback, K&N CAI, Fuel Tactic 17x9's -12mm , 285/70/17 Cooper STT Pros, Total Chaos BMC kit, etc..etc..blah, blah
Last edited by ScarfaceT4R; 08-05-2019 at 03:05 PM.
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