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Old 08-19-2019, 10:16 PM #16
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So based on that diagnostic definitely just replace the bushings before you do anything else. They basically just disconnected the sway bar, that's not sufficient to say it's a KDSS cylinder.

In fact one of the people here who had a knock in the front had loose bolts on one of the sway bar mounts that allowed it to move a little and knock. I would check those and replace bushings and not throw expensive parts at it unless they can better explain how they decided it's a bad cylinder.

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Old 08-20-2019, 08:32 AM #17
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so the knock that was a loose bolt wasn't KDSS, but I would still check everything and replace bushings before messing with the KDSS systems.

here's the thread I was thinking of:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...ved-broken-jpg
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:27 AM #18
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Mine was knocking and replacing the front sway bar bushings fixed it. they do wear out.
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Old 06-18-2020, 02:20 PM #19
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Can't believe I found this post. After replacing just about everything up front (some aftermarket and was happening anyway) I think I have found the culprit of my worsening clunk... the KDSS front cylinder. I have video I'm working on and I believe it's the quick-ish bumps that cause the clunks. I think the inner cylinder is hitting against the outer cylinder or something like that. Anyway, hell I've replaced LCA's and steering rack chasing this thing and of course the dealership is like no way the KDSS is bulletproof. Videos to come.
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Old 06-18-2020, 02:46 PM #20
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Did you replace the bushings before confirming it's the cylinder? I have the annoying "knock" sound right now and I'll be replacing the bushings first.

Looking forward to your video
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Old 06-18-2020, 03:18 PM #21
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LCA rubbber at the sway bar was replaced. The KDSS rubber onto the cylinder and static arm(pass side) is original. Some normal play there but definitely not clunking.
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Old 06-18-2020, 06:31 PM #22
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Video

here it is-

NEVERMIND THE BUGGERED BOOT- It's mostly fixed now.


at :57 it gets up close. My theory is that the inner piston is banging against the cylinder wall on the quick front/back bumps. 1:33 is closer, 2:05 and 2:18 are really good too for if you look closely you can see the lower part, especially just below where the lower boot clamp is, doesn't entirely look like its angle of deflection compliments the upper tube/housing/cylinder. At 3:05 is the static side. Nothing going on there. You can see some play in the sway bushings but there's not metal on metal or clunking there. Those are in acceptable condition at this time. Bushings at the LCAs are new.

NEW Front ARM BP51s last week(warrantied)
NEW OEM steering rack last week (incl inner and outer TRE)
LCA OEM replaced a month ago
UCA Nitro installed about 2 months ago.

So far seeing used replacements at around 300ish. Waiting from dealer on cost to recharge the system.

HAS ANYONE RECHARGED THE SYSTEM ON THEIR OWN???? I think someone earlier in this thread did. I'll look into that.
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Old 06-22-2020, 09:03 PM #23
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The SST from Toyota is as much as the front KDSS shock!

https://toyota.service-solutions.com...00002-12000-01
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:14 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okusputokus View Post
here it is-

NEVERMIND THE BUGGERED BOOT- It's mostly fixed now.


at :57 it gets up close. My theory is that the inner piston is banging against the cylinder wall on the quick front/back bumps. 1:33 is closer, 2:05 and 2:18 are really good too for if you look closely you can see the lower part, especially just below where the lower boot clamp is, doesn't entirely look like its angle of deflection compliments the upper tube/housing/cylinder. At 3:05 is the static side. Nothing going on there. You can see some play in the sway bushings but there's not metal on metal or clunking there. Those are in acceptable condition at this time. Bushings at the LCAs are new.

NEW Front ARM BP51s last week(warrantied)
NEW OEM steering rack last week (incl inner and outer TRE)
LCA OEM replaced a month ago
UCA Nitro installed about 2 months ago.

So far seeing used replacements at around 300ish. Waiting from dealer on cost to recharge the system.

HAS ANYONE RECHARGED THE SYSTEM ON THEIR OWN???? I think someone earlier in this thread did. I'll look into that.

At 3:10 or so, that’s the sway bar bushing, right? Why is it split?
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:38 AM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okusputokus View Post
here it is-

NEVERMIND THE BUGGERED BOOT- It's mostly fixed now.


at :57 it gets up close. My theory is that the inner piston is banging against the cylinder wall on the quick front/back bumps. 1:33 is closer, 2:05 and 2:18 are really good too for if you look closely you can see the lower part, especially just below where the lower boot clamp is, doesn't entirely look like its angle of deflection compliments the upper tube/housing/cylinder. At 3:05 is the static side. Nothing going on there. You can see some play in the sway bushings but there's not metal on metal or clunking there. Those are in acceptable condition at this time. Bushings at the LCAs are new.

NEW Front ARM BP51s last week(warrantied)
NEW OEM steering rack last week (incl inner and outer TRE)
LCA OEM replaced a month ago
UCA Nitro installed about 2 months ago.

So far seeing used replacements at around 300ish. Waiting from dealer on cost to recharge the system.

HAS ANYONE RECHARGED THE SYSTEM ON THEIR OWN???? I think someone earlier in this thread did. I'll look into that.
Bushing looks worn to me. Too much play. It's split for install. Mine was also split from wear on the piston side under the bracket. My knock was not as pronounced as yours before I replaced, but it did go away. Also, not convinced noise is coming from there. Did you inspect CV axle? Good luck figuring it out, hope you can without having to dive into the KDSS.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:53 AM #26
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I would remove the sway bar completely and ride\test without it… as that should help to identify if sway bar or KDSS cylinder is the source.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:58 AM #27
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Quote:
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I would remove the sway bar completely and ride\test without it… as that should help to identified if sway bar or KDSS cylinder is the source.
This is a good troubleshooting idea, but how would you remove the sway bar given the cylinder that's connected? Is there a trick to that? Asking for my own benefit for future troubleshooting.
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:45 AM #28
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When I removed the sway bar the clunks are GONE. I've been reading more into some old threads and I'm gathering that when the fluid is low or in the case of mine where it's been lifted and beat on then the clunking in the front (probably rear too) begins.

Next week having the dealer take a look and recharge the system.

Also I ordered new sway bar bushings (not the end link ones, those are new) but I'm 99% sure it's not those causing the clunks.

Hopefully my front KDSS cylinder isn't jacked.
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Old 06-23-2020, 01:02 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker View Post
This is a good troubleshooting idea, but how would you remove the sway bar given the cylinder that's connected? Is there a trick to that? Asking for my own benefit for future troubleshooting.
KDSS sway bar can be disconnected at the cylinder (two bolts) and on the passenger side (fixed point)- two bolts as well. Cylinder, fixed point, and sway bar can be moved away from each other (using straps or even large zip ties) so the test drive can be performed.
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Old 06-23-2020, 01:02 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okusputokus View Post
When I removed the sway bar the clunks are GONE. I've been reading more into some old threads and I'm gathering that when the fluid is low or in the case of mine where it's been lifted and beat on then the clunking in the front (probably rear too) begins.

Next week having the dealer take a look and recharge the system.

Also I ordered new sway bar bushings (not the end link ones, those are new) but I'm 99% sure it's not those causing the clunks.

Hopefully my front KDSS cylinder isn't jacked.
Understood... hopefully recharge will resolve it then… although the idea that “fluid is low” maybe questionable unless you actually noticed the leak… but that just my thought and I hope I am wrong.
Good luck man!
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