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Old 08-19-2019, 11:30 PM #1
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27F OK? Battery pros and cons

Has any one here tried a 27F? If so what did you have to do to get it to fit? Did it work ok for you?
Would the 24F be better?
BTW: I have done a ton of searching on this and did not find any specific information on the 27F.
Thanks for the help
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Last edited by Galdarn; 08-20-2019 at 02:58 PM. Reason: Long store short
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Old 08-23-2019, 01:53 AM #2
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Does this post help?

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2429272-post14.html
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:34 AM #3
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Only mod you need is a 4th gen battery tray. No cons except for added weight, takes more space and battery might cost more.
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:23 AM #4
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I had a 27F in my 4th gen for years and actually bought a battery tray to put into my 5th gen but ended up getting an Odyssey instead. I have a brand new battery tray for sale if anyone is looking to go this route

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-non-t4r-items/271006-universal-large-battery-tray-$30-pittsburgh-pa.html
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Old 08-23-2019, 04:07 PM #5
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I just installed a 27F in my 2011 4Runner. I removed the old 24F battery and the plastic tray. The 27F fit on the shelf with no difficulty at all. I plan to install a larger plastic tray under the battery later this year. Maybe I'll find one at a salvage yard.
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:11 PM #6
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I have a 27F in mine.

I installed the other OEM battery tray (P/N can be found in various threads) to fit the larger battery, but no other modifications were needed. The existing battery cables mounted up without issue. It is heavy though.

I installed the 27F mainly for the ARB fridge I run frequently.
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:04 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myf16 View Post
The 27F fit on the shelf with no difficulty at all. I plan to install a larger plastic tray under the battery later this year. Maybe I'll find one at a salvage yard.
I found a 4th gen tray on eBay. It fit perfectly, but damn that 27F battery was really hard to lift out of the vehicle. No handle on the 27F and it's HEAVY.

I'm very happy with my new setup.
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Old 09-05-2019, 05:53 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickTRD View Post
Only mod you need is a 4th gen battery tray. No cons except for added weight, takes more space and battery might cost more.
S
Thanks for your reply. I found a 27F at Sams for $100.00 Its a Duracell.
Do you know if the 4th gen battery tray plastic like the one in my 5th gen?
I was thinking about making a simple tray with some scrap aluminum angle I have. Just not sure how to attach it yet or if it needs to be attached.
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Old 09-05-2019, 06:51 PM #9
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I remember reading on the Tacoma forums years ago about being problems when going from a 24F to 27F battery.

The Tacoma that came from the factory with a 27F battery also has a high output 130 amp alternator whereas the one that came with 24F battery came has the standard output 90 amp alternator.

The problem when sticking a high capacity 27F battery into a truck with the standard output alternator can kill the battery quickly because it won't keep it fully charged.

However the 4Runner comes with a either a 100 amp or 130 amp alternator so maybe a 27F battery will work if you have the 130 amp alternator.
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:26 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Moleman View Post
I remember reading on the Tacoma forums years ago about being problems when going from a 24F to 27F battery.

The Tacoma that came from the factory with a 27F battery also has a high output 130 amp alternator whereas the one that came with 24F battery came has the standard output 90 amp alternator.

The problem when sticking a high capacity 27F battery into a truck with the standard output alternator can kill the battery quickly because it won't keep it fully charged.

However the 4Runner comes with a either a 100 amp or 130 amp alternator so maybe a 27F battery will work if you have the 130 amp alternator.
If your truck with a 90a alternator can fully charge a 24F, it can fully charge a 27F.

In normal operating conditions, the alternator current capability has absolutely nothing to do with its ability to fully charge a battery because a full charge is completely dependent on system voltage, not available current.

The only time I would be concerned, is if you are actually using more current than the alt is capable of putting out. Because in that condition, and only in that condition, you will have voltage drop. How much drop depends on how much load you have in the system.

For most people, non-issue. If this was an issue most all battery tenders would not fully charge a car battery.

Think about dual battery setups too… you literally just doubled your capacity with the stock alternator. You could add 10 batteries, and as long as you can maintain your charge voltages, they will charge just fine. With that many batteries, It’s just going to take longer as the rate of charge will be split across each battery assuming you actually hit the alternators max output. The fuller a battery gets, its ability to accept current is also reduced.

Last edited by Bumbo; 09-05-2019 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:46 AM #11
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Hans Moleman
Good to know about the alternator, Now I have to find what the output is on mine.
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:55 AM #12
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Thanks for the detailed info Bumbo.
I am also planning on getting an LED voltage meter to mount inside so I can monitor the battery voltage.
I would like to get a solar panel to mount on the roof for constant trickle charge also
since I don't drive it every day.
Anyone have suggestions for a roof mount solar charger under $100 to maintain the battery charge?
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Last edited by Galdarn; 12-17-2019 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Accuracy
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