09-19-2019, 08:01 PM
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#16
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OK, so I'm going to jump in here again.
If you are not at fault, then the insurance company will put it back in the condition it was pre-accident. This includes aftermarket stuff.
If you go through your insurance, then you'll have to pay your deductible and you'll get that back one your insurance company recovers from the other one.
You are entitled to a rental car even if you don't have rental car coverage. Again, you'll need to pay for it but you'll get it back.
If your state authorized diminished value, then you are entitled to diminished value. In general, any paintwork other than minor bumper resprays may qualify for diminished value.
In general, the dealer or insurance body shops are pretty bad. Ask for recommendations from a high end detailer in your region - they often know the best body shops.
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09-19-2019, 08:41 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1111
OK, so I'm going to jump in here again.
If you are not at fault, then the insurance company will put it back in the condition it was pre-accident. This includes aftermarket stuff.
If you go through your insurance, then you'll have to pay your deductible and you'll get that back one your insurance company recovers from the other one.
You are entitled to a rental car even if you don't have rental car coverage. Again, you'll need to pay for it but you'll get it back.
If your state authorized diminished value, then you are entitled to diminished value. In general, any paintwork other than minor bumper resprays may qualify for diminished value.
In general, the dealer or insurance body shops are pretty bad. Ask for recommendations from a high end detailer in your region - they often know the best body shops.
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All of this is what I found today. Only exception is that when I hit social media for collision shop recs, they resoundingly recommended the shop I was going to pick from my insurance's list. All good so far. Thanks.
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09-19-2019, 09:04 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unsub1
All of this is what I found today. Only exception is that when I hit social media for collision shop recs, they resoundingly recommended the shop I was going to pick from my insurance's list. All good so far. Thanks.
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Sure, sometimes you get lucky with insurance company body shops.
In many cases, insurance companies do a deal with the body shop that requires the bodyshop to suck up a certain amount of hidden damage. Let's say, for example, that the estimate is $1k, but once the panels come off, there is another $500 in damage. If the agreement is 20%, then the bodyshop would have to suck up $200 of the hidden damage and will get paid $1300. They have to make that up somewhere.
When I used an insurance company bodyshop 15 years ago, they used non-OE fasteners, duct taped the bumper absorber together and used a repair kit for the headlight, but charged for a new headlamp. Ultimately, another bodyshop fixed it and the insurance company charged the re-repair to the original bodyshop.
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09-19-2019, 09:16 PM
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#19
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Yeah, this will be interesting with me needing to order a bumper that is 4 months out or whatever. Hoping I can handle it myself. That wouldn't leave the shop much to do.
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09-19-2019, 09:54 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1111
Sure, sometimes you get lucky with insurance company body shops.
In many cases, insurance companies do a deal with the body shop that requires the bodyshop to suck up a certain amount of hidden damage. Let's say, for example, that the estimate is $1k, but once the panels come off, there is another $500 in damage. If the agreement is 20%, then the bodyshop would have to suck up $200 of the hidden damage and will get paid $1300. They have to make that up somewhere.
When I used an insurance company bodyshop 15 years ago, they used non-OE fasteners, duct taped the bumper absorber together and used a repair kit for the headlight, but charged for a new headlamp. Ultimately, another bodyshop fixed it and the insurance company charged the re-repair to the original bodyshop.
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What you are referencing is a DRP - direct repair program (sometimes also called direct repair partner). In my former career, I was an I-CAR certified estimator for an independent shop that had DRPs with State Farm, USAA, and Progressive. State Farm and USAA were easy to deal with. Progressive was a nickel and dime relationship that got more and more "dime" as time went on. State Farm would allow me to upload images of damage and they approved EVERY SINGLE one of my estimates including supplemental.
Some insurance companies actually have back-channel ownership of independent shops. All-State used to own Sterling but sold it based on increased scrutiny, so it's not as common as it used to be.
My advice is:
1. Go through their insurance - don't bother with letting yours do the work for you. Even when rear-ended and not at fault the insurance company still dings your driving record (for their actuarial and underwriting calcs) for a period of time. One is usually not a factor; having a series of "not at faults" actually can cause insurance rates to go up as it you are deemed to be a poor defensive driver (crazy). Best advice - in all seriousness - spend $25 and buy pizza for the team working your vehicle at the shop. Everyone from the estimator (who can help you overcome BS with the insurance company), to the bodyman will run through walls for you. I promise you. They'll go out of their way to make sure
you get the best treatment. It'll be worth the $25.
Going through their insurance is easy as long as you stay on them. Don't let them take an inch!
2. Demand a rental.
3. Demand OEM replacements for any non-custom items. They likely will try to integrate used/LKQ. If they deny after listing aftermarket (meaning copies) items, remind them that their party was at fault. Squeaky wheel gets the grease and the adjuster working the case likely won't want to deal with the "headache." If you cannot avoid aftermarket because of mileage/age/value, demand CAPA certified.
4. Have your receipts ready to go - they will want them for the custom pieces. Include labor costs. You're better off getting a check from them for the custom parts if they have a 4 mos. wait.
5. If any paint work is necessary, demand adjacent panels be blended. This is costly for them to do, because you have to R&I handles, masking, etc. If your panel is not blended, you'll run the potential to see a difference in color match no matter how precise because of the fading that can happen. We had an issue with one car because he parked the same direction in the same spot and one side was more faded than the other - we had to bring in a machine to formulate the tint mixture on each side and then combine both for the middle to make it look ok.
6. Be sure you are not hurt. People get sore days after. Seen it too much dealing with collision repairs.
Last edited by Phade; 09-19-2019 at 09:57 PM.
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09-19-2019, 10:20 PM
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#21
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insurance is a SCAM. Good luck man. Also go to the dr and make sure you get something for your pain and suffering. 4 months from now you don't want a back issue that will never go away and have nothing to show for it.
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09-20-2019, 10:18 AM
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#22
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tedious
I like the info many are providing. If you've never been through this, be prepared for a long drawn out process. Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Lots of deep breaths....
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09-20-2019, 11:10 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FZRunner
I like the info many are providing. If you've never been through this, be prepared for a long drawn out process. Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Lots of deep breaths....
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Correct, don't be a rush. Wait out insurance if they are not giving you want to want. Don;t agree to anything you don't want to. Just say no as many times as it takes. I had to say no four time before insurance gave me fair value for my no fault accident.
After a month of no's insurance starts to say yes to want you want.
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09-20-2019, 07:42 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phade
What you are referencing is a DRP - direct repair program (sometimes also called direct repair partner). In my former career, I was an I-CAR certified estimator for an independent shop that had DRPs with State Farm, USAA, and Progressive. State Farm and USAA were easy to deal with. Progressive was a nickel and dime relationship that got more and more "dime" as time went on. State Farm would allow me to upload images of damage and they approved EVERY SINGLE one of my estimates including supplemental.
Some insurance companies actually have back-channel ownership of independent shops. All-State used to own Sterling but sold it based on increased scrutiny, so it's not as common as it used to be.
My advice is:
1. Go through their insurance - don't bother with letting yours do the work for you. Even when rear-ended and not at fault the insurance company still dings your driving record (for their actuarial and underwriting calcs) for a period of time. One is usually not a factor; having a series of "not at faults" actually can cause insurance rates to go up as it you are deemed to be a poor defensive driver (crazy). Best advice - in all seriousness - spend $25 and buy pizza for the team working your vehicle at the shop. Everyone from the estimator (who can help you overcome BS with the insurance company), to the bodyman will run through walls for you. I promise you. They'll go out of their way to make sure
you get the best treatment. It'll be worth the $25.
Going through their insurance is easy as long as you stay on them. Don't let them take an inch!
2. Demand a rental.
3. Demand OEM replacements for any non-custom items. They likely will try to integrate used/LKQ. If they deny after listing aftermarket (meaning copies) items, remind them that their party was at fault. Squeaky wheel gets the grease and the adjuster working the case likely won't want to deal with the "headache." If you cannot avoid aftermarket because of mileage/age/value, demand CAPA certified.
4. Have your receipts ready to go - they will want them for the custom pieces. Include labor costs. You're better off getting a check from them for the custom parts if they have a 4 mos. wait.
5. If any paint work is necessary, demand adjacent panels be blended. This is costly for them to do, because you have to R&I handles, masking, etc. If your panel is not blended, you'll run the potential to see a difference in color match no matter how precise because of the fading that can happen. We had an issue with one car because he parked the same direction in the same spot and one side was more faded than the other - we had to bring in a machine to formulate the tint mixture on each side and then combine both for the middle to make it look ok.
6. Be sure you are not hurt. People get sore days after. Seen it too much dealing with collision repairs.
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My advice, instead of spending $25 on pizza (which is a one time thing and the guy that didn't get any is pissed) is to spend the same amount on cases of soda and just drop them off. Why is that better? It sticks around more than one lunch and will raise the question "hey, where did these sodas come from?" - "the guy with the 4R brought them in for us". Find the store that has them on sale and it looks like a whole bunch. The usual sale of 4 for $10 is a dozen cases if you look around, so $30 gets you a dozen cases.
Getting checked by your doc is good advice as well.
After I got rear-ended going into work, I drove there, got a staff car and drove to one of my sites 70 miles away, spent most of the day there, drove back and thought I was fine. Back at the office, I ran into a Public Health Service nurse that worked there that said "sit down and let me take your vitals, you look like hell". After she took my vitals she said "I'm driving you to the ER." I was still feeling fine, but the ER doc disagreed and diagnosed whiplash and a concussion. I felt fine for a couple more days and then it felt like I got hit by a Mack truck.
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09-21-2019, 12:17 AM
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#25
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I'm lucky enough to be married to a physician who thought I was good. She checked over me and pointed out lots of other stuff not related to getting rear-ended, but I digress. I watched the dash cam and really think it was incredibly low speed despite the turmoil it has caused.
So far, so good with insurance and stuff. We'll see.
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09-23-2019, 11:24 PM
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#26
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In all of it's glory....
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09-24-2019, 06:49 PM
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#27
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When I was rear ended the other dudes insurance company paid me out all aftermarket parts. I just sent them receipts and they sent me a check. I had a C4 Ladder that was destroyed, a tire carrier, and they replaced the wheel and tire as well.
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09-24-2019, 06:55 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phade
What you are referencing is a DRP - direct repair program (sometimes also called direct repair partner). In my former career, I was an I-CAR certified estimator for an independent shop that had DRPs with State Farm, USAA, and Progressive. State Farm and USAA were easy to deal with. Progressive was a nickel and dime relationship that got more and more "dime" as time went on. State Farm would allow me to upload images of damage and they approved EVERY SINGLE one of my estimates including supplemental.
Some insurance companies actually have back-channel ownership of independent shops. All-State used to own Sterling but sold it based on increased scrutiny, so it's not as common as it used to be.
My advice is:
1. Go through their insurance - don't bother with letting yours do the work for you. Even when rear-ended and not at fault the insurance company still dings your driving record (for their actuarial and underwriting calcs) for a period of time. One is usually not a factor; having a series of "not at faults" actually can cause insurance rates to go up as it you are deemed to be a poor defensive driver (crazy). Best advice - in all seriousness - spend $25 and buy pizza for the team working your vehicle at the shop. Everyone from the estimator (who can help you overcome BS with the insurance company), to the bodyman will run through walls for you. I promise you. They'll go out of their way to make sure
you get the best treatment. It'll be worth the $25.
Going through their insurance is easy as long as you stay on them. Don't let them take an inch!
2. Demand a rental.
3. Demand OEM replacements for any non-custom items. They likely will try to integrate used/LKQ. If they deny after listing aftermarket (meaning copies) items, remind them that their party was at fault. Squeaky wheel gets the grease and the adjuster working the case likely won't want to deal with the "headache." If you cannot avoid aftermarket because of mileage/age/value, demand CAPA certified.
4. Have your receipts ready to go - they will want them for the custom pieces. Include labor costs. You're better off getting a check from them for the custom parts if they have a 4 mos. wait.
5. If any paint work is necessary, demand adjacent panels be blended. This is costly for them to do, because you have to R&I handles, masking, etc. If your panel is not blended, you'll run the potential to see a difference in color match no matter how precise because of the fading that can happen. We had an issue with one car because he parked the same direction in the same spot and one side was more faded than the other - we had to bring in a machine to formulate the tint mixture on each side and then combine both for the middle to make it look ok.
6. Be sure you are not hurt. People get sore days after. Seen it too much dealing with collision repairs.
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Just curious on why you say not to work through your insurance?
I've always worked through my insurance. Unfortunately its happened couple times to myself and my wife.
I have State Farm and its been nothing but cake working through them. I gave um the other guys information and that was it. Took it to the body shop and that was the end of it.
No raise in rates nothing. I understand may not be the cheapest but from every incident I've had its well worth the money.
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09-24-2019, 07:46 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillusion
Just curious on why you say not to work through your insurance?
I've always worked through my insurance. Unfortunately its happened couple times to myself and my wife.
I have State Farm and its been nothing but cake working through them. I gave um the other guys information and that was it. Took it to the body shop and that was the end of it.
No raise in rates nothing. I understand may not be the cheapest but from every incident I've had its well worth the money.
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Just like a FICO score, you have a similar scoring/rating for insurance purposes (in layman's terms). Making multiple claims within your insurance carrier to go after another party can result in your score/rating be more at risk because you can be considered a poor defensive driver (meaning avoiding accidents, questionable scenarios, and reducing risk). Whether it raises your specific rates depends on multiple factors, but if your rates haven't gone up with multiple claims against other policyholders, then you're likely paying a premium above and beyond what is necessary to make the policy in force at the same protection levels with another carrier.
I worked in that specific part of the industry for 10 years.
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09-24-2019, 08:17 PM
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#30
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Not sure why your own personal insurance would even be involved unless the other person’s coverage is dicking you around.
I know every state is different, but around here there is no reason to file a claim or even notify your own insurance for a rear ender that is obvious who is at fault(unless there are injuries)
Even if you call your insurance to talk to them about it that alone could be similar to a claim and will come back to bite you down the road.
Get estimates for damages and have them cut you a check. Go buy what you want or pay a shop to fix it.
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