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Old 09-27-2019, 09:53 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Snake View Post
Let's try again. Upgrade the head unit all you want, with the tweeters in your dash and the shitty 6x9's in the front doors it will never get much better. It's just that simple.
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The OEM has crossovers and bass roll off to avoid blowing the speakers and having warranty work done. The radio he is getting also has way more features to tune the system.
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Old 09-27-2019, 10:09 PM #17
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As mentioned in my first post, I intend on replacing the speakers eventually. This still does not solve the impedance issue, and may make it worse given that many aftermarket speakers are less than 4 ohms.

The only other thing I could possibly do to solve this is to install a separate 2-ohm stable amp. I’d rather not go this route since car audio is not nearly the priority that it once was to me. I even used to design my own enclosures with WinISD, but I’m done with that stage of my life.

I simply want something that sounds decent and has CarPlay, but I don’t want to deal with adding a full complement of audio equipment.
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Old 10-01-2019, 02:45 PM #18
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OK, just as an update, I've decided to go with a compact amp under the driver's seat to fix this little issue. Those stock speakers might not be too happy before I get them changed out, haha.
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Old 10-01-2019, 04:32 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP Texan View Post
I've decided to go with a compact amp under the driver's seat to fix this little issue.
This is the best option, most headunits are not going to have enough power to properly drive a nice set of speakers at high volume. I suggest wiring your doors and tweeters separately, if you have a nice set of components you will be able to bi amp them and have better control.
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Old 10-01-2019, 05:53 PM #20
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Originally Posted by KP Texan View Post
The 4Runner stock configuration consists of two 4 ohm speakers in the front which are wired in parallel and gives a 2 ohm total load on each channel. This is below what any aftermarket receivers recommend, and could potentially overheat the internal amp.

Alternatively, the rear speakers are two 4 ohm speakers wired in series which give an 8 ohm total load for each channel. This is within aftermarket receiver specs even though it allows less output.
The fronts are actually 4 ohm and the rears are 8 ohm. I checked these when I hooked up a 5-channel amp because I wasn’t sure what the impedance the rears were since there are 4.

Anyways you’re fine installing your aftermarket hu.
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Old 10-01-2019, 06:02 PM #21
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Originally Posted by dangitzin View Post
The fronts are actually 4 ohm and the rears are 8 ohm. I checked these when I hooked up a 5-channel amp because I wasn’t sure what the impedance the rears were since there are 4.

Anyways you’re fine installing your aftermarket hu.
How did you measure the impedance of the circuit?
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Old 10-01-2019, 08:56 PM #22
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I used my multimeter. But before that I ran wires from the dash to my amp’s location(under driver seat). I wired the wires at the dash to a harness that connects to the stock harness and measured at the other end. You can also measure at the stock harness itself as long as you know which wires they are.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:16 PM #23
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Originally Posted by dangitzin View Post
I used my multimeter. But before that I ran wires from the dash to my amp’s location(under driver seat). I wired the wires at the dash to a harness that connects to the stock harness and measured at the other end. You can also measure at the stock harness itself as long as you know which wires they are.
I’m not too sure this will work, at least with the stock speakers. There is a capacitor in series with the dash speaker to protect it from lower frequencies. As the multimeter applies voltage to take a resistance reading, it will charge that capacitor which will cause the capacitor’s resistance to approach infinity - this effectively removes that speaker from the circuit. Since the door speaker does not have a capacitor, I believe you may have been just reading the 4 ohms through that. Once the circuit is running under AC from the amp, it behaves much differently though and should be closer to 2ohms impedance.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:30 PM #24
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This is correct. The impedance is 2 ohms. Impedance does go up as you get away from the resonant frequency. In theory, if you crossover the speaker high enough you can run the speakers on a 4 ohm stable amp if you keep it at reasonable limits.
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Old 10-01-2019, 11:53 PM #25
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Originally Posted by KP Texan View Post
I’m not too sure this will work, at least with the stock speakers. There is a capacitor in series with the dash speaker to protect it from lower frequencies. As the multimeter applies voltage to take a resistance reading, it will charge that capacitor which will cause the capacitor’s resistance to approach infinity - this effectively removes that speaker from the circuit. Since the door speaker does not have a capacitor, I believe you may have been just reading the 4 ohms through that. Once the circuit is running under AC from the amp, it behaves much differently though and should be closer to 2ohms impedance.
Oh wow didn't know all that. I just went about wiring my stuff like I usually do. Thanks for this. Where can I get more info on this? So I don't end up blowing speakers when I decide to upgrade again.
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:29 AM #26
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Originally Posted by dangitzin View Post
Oh wow didn't know all that. I just went about wiring my stuff like I usually do. Thanks for this. Where can I get more info on this? So I don't end up blowing speakers when I decide to upgrade again.
It's a very easy mistake to make since the 4Runner speaker wiring is a bit interesting (especially mine with the party mode button). In fact, if didn't have access to the wiring diagrams and also read through the thread on here about front speaker replacement, I could've easily done the same thing!
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