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Old 10-07-2019, 03:51 PM #16
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I got 22" in the front hub to fender after my Icon Stage 2. Your CVs are pissed at you and might cause even more problems. Back it down a bit and start from there.
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Old 10-07-2019, 04:59 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy View Post
My guess is you're having a problem because you're trying to set too much lift resulting in the frame twisting under the forces and the body will never get to where you want unless you change the control arms in the rear. It's possible you have a rear spring out of position or something. But 24.5" is higher than what you can normally run. That would be close to 5 inches up front. I'm guessing you're at the full extension of the front shocks already.

FWIW - the 285/75/17's will fit at any ride height with the same trimming unless you never intend to hit bumps. I have 285/75/17's and currently set around 21" front. So if you're trying to max the lift for tire size - you can adjust down a bit. If you shoot for something more like 22.5" it'll probably work and also ride a lot nicer. Or it might be time to consider a bracket lift or long travel front setup for more height.

good luck
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Originally Posted by Dillusion View Post
I got 22" in the front hub to fender after my Icon Stage 2. Your CVs are pissed at you and might cause even more problems. Back it down a bit and start from there.
Solid advice fellas, I appreciate that! I’ll back it down and see what happens. Although I do like the stance it’s at now. Although, I came across this set up a few weeks ago, 4" - 4.5" Lift on 5th Gen 4Runner - Ekstrom Strut Shims & Icon Springs
Putting strut shims on top of the coil overs will effect the CV angles as well right?
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Old 10-07-2019, 05:04 PM #18
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If you want to go higher I'd suggest a cross member lift. It will save your CVs.

Coilovers not going get it done correctly.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:45 PM #19
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Update: after doing some serious adjusting to the pre-load and removing the trim packers from the drivers side coil, I’ve managed to get everything within a 1/2”. My drivers side is nearly maxed out and passenger preload is sitting about 3/4 lower. 23.5 and boots still look ok, I still plan to stretch them and add a diff drop.
I will say the OME trim packers literally did nothing which still blows my mind. Even after removing them and driving around so the suspension would settle, I still had the same measurement.
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:21 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesdan13 View Post
Update: after doing some serious adjusting to the pre-load and removing the trim packers from the drivers side coil, I’ve managed to get everything within a 1/2”. My drivers side is nearly maxed out and passenger preload is sitting about 3/4 lower. 23.5 and boots still look ok, I still plan to stretch them and add a diff drop.
I will say the OME trim packers literally did nothing which still blows my mind. Even after removing them and driving around so the suspension would settle, I still had the same measurement.
All rigs are different. To put it in perspective I have Icon Stage 2 and I am at 22.75 in the front. I have 17 threads showing on the coil over above the collar on the driver and 9 on the driver with a diff drop. CV boots are happy. I did have it have 23.5 at one point and the ride was shit and the boot were not happy.
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Old 10-09-2019, 04:22 PM #21
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like shrub said - everyones rides are different. My toytec rear springs have me around 25" (which they were puzzled how I got that) center of wheel to fender where everyone else got 24"ish

What did the icon springs get you to for the rear?
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Old 10-09-2019, 04:44 PM #22
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So I should not install my OME heavy springs 3 inch lift being stock weight? I have 1 packer to install in the rear incase there is a little lean. This OME lift is a temp lift until I get a incon level 1 or 2.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:42 PM #23
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So I should not install my OME heavy springs 3 inch lift being stock weight? I have 1 packer to install in the rear incase there is a little lean. This OME lift is a temp lift until I get a incon level 1 or 2.
Why even both if its coming back out? Unless its going to be one of those temp to possibly permanent things.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:43 PM #24
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Originally Posted by WEAK_E90 View Post
To the tire comment. HUB to fender excludes the tire there brochacho. I can only give people top of rim to fender due to the "dish" of my wheels I cant locate center really well (just add 1/2 wheel dimension).
Sure you can. Measure your overall rim diameter, lip to lip. Then measure from the bottom lip closest to the ground up to your fender edge, and remove half of your specific rim diameter, and you have a perfect hub to center measurement, excluding wheel and tire size.

It's easier for people to do this and get a more exactly hub to fender measurement, since almost everyone's aftermarket wheels and tires are dished inwards and the center of the hub isn't easy to find.

Plus, people get picky and fussy so easily over 1/4" of lean, so who is to say it was measured equally to start with?
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:51 PM #25
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Originally Posted by Wesdan13 View Post
I will say the OME trim packers literally did nothing which still blows my mind. Even after removing them and driving around so the suspension would settle, I still had the same measurement.
They wouldn't do anything if your struts were maxed out at full lift, running maximum height.

It's too late now, but you could have checked if you had any down travel (droop) left at your settings before, and if there was none, adding 1" spacers wouldn't have added any height if the struts were at full extension already.


You don't have KDSS, do you?
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:42 PM #26
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Originally Posted by WEAK_E90 View Post
like shrub said - everyones rides are different. My toytec rear springs have me around 25" (which they were puzzled how I got that) center of wheel to fender where everyone else got 24"ish

What did the icon springs get you to for the rear?
With the Icon rear springs I am at 24 3/8
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:49 PM #27
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Originally Posted by Dillusion View Post
Why even both if its coming back out? Unless its going to be one of those temp to possibly permanent things.
Because the lift is brand new sitting in my garage and I have no need for the icon lift right at this moment.
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:50 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WEAK_E90 View Post
like shrub said - everyones rides are different. My toytec rear springs have me around 25" (which they were puzzled how I got that) center of wheel to fender where everyone else got 24"ish

What did the icon springs get you to for the rear?
24” passenger. 23.5 Driver. At a little less than half a tank. ICON recommended doing all adjusting with half a tank. But I’m assuming when I fill it up it’s just gonna squat. Really just poor design on Toyota’s part. 🙄 a stock tire carrier and put the tank in the center/rear! Prob solved!
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:55 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crikeymike View Post
They wouldn't do anything if your struts were maxed out at full lift, running maximum height.

It's too late now, but you could have checked if you had any down travel (droop) left at your settings before, and if there was none, adding 1" spacers wouldn't have added any height if the struts were at full extension already.


You don't have KDSS, do you?
Yea I realized that after talking with ICON, helped me understand geometry a little better. But still, even after dropping the preload quite a bit, it stayed at 23.5. Once I removed the packers.... still 23.5. I’m well under max on the passenger side.

No KDSS.
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Old 10-09-2019, 09:04 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signal View Post
Because the lift is brand new sitting in my garage and I have no need for the icon lift right at this moment.
You made it sound like the Icon was a guarantee. Now it doesn't.

Sounds more like one of those temporary/permanent things.
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