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Old 10-10-2019, 04:57 PM #1
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AOB Switch wiring help

Hey everyone, so I am attempting to wire my OPT7 32in led light bar to an AOB switch using the OPT7 wiring harness which includes a relay and fused link. I searched all I could on the subject and have come up with the following which I thought should work. Mostly using:
"If I can do It You Can" Behind Grill Light Bar Install

OPT7 Blue wire to AOB Red wire
OPT7 White wire to AOB Green wire
Originally I had OPT7 Black wire to AOB Black wire
Originally I left the AOB Blue wire out of the equation

So, the light bar comes on with no key in the ignition and the switch led is always powered on. Not exactly what I am looking for.
So I cut the black wire connection and the led switch light went off and light bar works with switch with no key but no switch illumination.

So today I tapped the AOB Blue wire into the Green wire of the wiper warmer switch and the Black wire into the Grey wire of the wiper warmer switch. Switch led always on. WTF? I disconnected both and if I touch the black wire to any ground the switch led lights up. So I obviously have done something wrong. Are my OPT7 Blue and White wire connections backwards?

As you can tell, electrical is not my thing but I have wired enough stuff and thought this would be easy. Does anyone have a clue what I need to do to get this working correctly? Three wires off the relay on the OPT7 Harness, Black, White and Blue and four wires from the switch. Red, Black, Blue and Green. I would really appreciate any help that you guys could provide.

Thanks for reading,

Primo
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Old 10-10-2019, 05:34 PM #2
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Not sure if this will be of any help but...

I have an AOB switch and a light and relay from Auxbeam. My original temp setup was this:

AOB black to harness black
AOB red to harness red
AOB green to harness yellow
AOB blue to dash light switch

With the above, the LED on the switch was always lit as if it was turned on. Prior to this I had asked the folks at AOB if this would work. Their reply was to switch the red and yellow harness wires. That did the trick.

The blue wire from the switch is not currently used but I will eventually tap into the wiper-warmer gray wire ( I believe ) for switch illumination when the dash lights are on.
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:38 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Primo View Post
Hey everyone, so I am attempting to wire my OPT7 32in led light bar to an AOB switch using the OPT7 wiring harness which includes a relay and fused link. I searched all I could on the subject and have come up with the following which I thought should work. Mostly using:
"If I can do It You Can" Behind Grill Light Bar Install

OPT7 Blue wire to AOB Red wire
OPT7 White wire to AOB Green wire
Originally I had OPT7 Black wire to AOB Black wire
Originally I left the AOB Blue wire out of the equation

So, the light bar comes on with no key in the ignition and the switch led is always powered on. Not exactly what I am looking for.
So I cut the black wire connection and the led switch light went off and light bar works with switch with no key but no switch illumination.

So today I tapped the AOB Blue wire into the Green wire of the wiper warmer switch and the Black wire into the Grey wire of the wiper warmer switch. Switch led always on. WTF? I disconnected both and if I touch the black wire to any ground the switch led lights up. So I obviously have done something wrong. Are my OPT7 Blue and White wire connections backwards?

As you can tell, electrical is not my thing but I have wired enough stuff and thought this would be easy. Does anyone have a clue what I need to do to get this working correctly? Three wires off the relay on the OPT7 Harness, Black, White and Blue and four wires from the switch. Red, Black, Blue and Green. I would really appreciate any help that you guys could provide.

Thanks for reading,

Primo

AOB Black -> Grey Factory wire on Wiper Warmer Switch (to ground AOB switch and allow for dimming). If you are not attaching to Factory wires then you would attach it to the Black wire from the relay.

AOB Blue -> Connect to Green Factory wire on Wiper Warmer Switch. (This is power for dimming, but if not connecting to factory wires tape off this wire as it is not necessary)

AOB Red -> Opt 7 Blue (Power out of switch to relay when the switch is pressed)

AOB Green -> Opt 7 White (This is the hot lead that connects power from battery to switch)

This is how I did it in the original thread and still going strong with dimming for 3 years.
If they changed the colors Iím not sure. From the AOB instructions do they show. Iíve attached a picture of my original instructions from AOB.

Also I have the wiring of just the switch dimming portion outlined here.

Post # 40
Cymon's Weekend Warrior and MFD Thread

Maybe someone with more electrical knowledge like @rigtec can help.
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AOB Switch wiring help-44fc7b05-96c7-4b4b-a1de-d03d3322f005-jpg 
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:51 AM #4
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So that is exactly how I have mine wired with the same components and it seems to be a no go. Not sure what else to try. Thank you for the quick reply.
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Old 10-11-2019, 08:44 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Primo View Post
So that is exactly how I have mine wired with the same components and it seems to be a no go. Not sure what else to try. Thank you for the quick reply.
Sounds like you did the same thing I did. I think you need to flip the blue and white wires.

The switch should always be able to turn the lights on when the ignition is off if you're using a basic relay setup coming off the battery. The only way around that is to get much more complicated I think.

The switch should NOT light up when the switch is off though. Mine did at first, when I switched the blue and white wires it turned off the back light on the switch. It only lights up now when the switch is on, assuming you have re-connected the black wire.

Tapping the 4th wire into the dash illumination wires will let the backlight of the switch come on with the rest of the dash lights.
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Old 10-11-2019, 09:07 AM #6
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Thank you so much. I will give that a try this weekend. Unfortunately I did a beautiful soldering and heat shrink job on the bench before pulling through the firewall which will now get cut but if that makes it all work, not a big deal.
Thanks again man,

Rob
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:20 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafrush View Post
Sounds like you did the same thing I did. I think you need to flip the blue and white wires.

The switch should always be able to turn the lights on when the ignition is off if you're using a basic relay setup coming off the battery. The only way around that is to get much more complicated I think.

The switch should NOT light up when the switch is off though. Mine did at first, when I switched the blue and white wires it turned off the back light on the switch. It only lights up now when the switch is on, assuming you have re-connected the black wire.

Tapping the 4th wire into the dash illumination wires will let the backlight of the switch come on with the rest of the dash lights.


jafrush you hit the nail on the head. Either the switch or the harness must be wired backwards.I swapped the Blue wire from the OPT7 harness to the GREEN wire on the AOB switch. I then connected the White wire from the OPT7 harness to the RED wire on the AOB switch. First I made sure the switch would activate the light bar and it did. I then tapped into the Grey wire of the wiper warmer switch with the Black wire from the AOB switch and the Blue from the AOB to the Green of the wiper warmer. I HIGHLY recommend Posi Taps for tapping into wires instead of the vampire taps people use. I used them extensively on my motorcyles and have never had an issue, are reusable and just put a tiny hole in the wire being tapped. I have zero relationship with this company.

So, I can turn on the LED light bar with no key in the ignition which is fine, the words on the AOB switch are lit with the truck lights and turning on the light bar turns on the led above the words (the picture). Exactly what I wanted. I am ridiculously OCD and had to dismantle the switch and tweak the actual LED bulb as it wasn't lighting in the center of the switch. I know, I have issues!

Thank you guys so much. Even though I do not post much I read a ton and have spent ridiculous money on too many mods thanks to all of you.
Thanks again,

Rob
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:34 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Primo View Post

"Hey everyone, so I am attempting to wire my OPT7 32in led light bar to an AOB switch using the OPT7 wiring harness which includes a relay and fused link. I searched all I could on the subject and have come up with the following which I thought should work...

OPT7 Blue wire to AOB Red wire
OPT7 White wire to AOB Green wire
Originally I had OPT7 Black wire to AOB Black wire
Originally I left the AOB Blue wire out of the equation..."
Hi Primo, @Cymon !

I just read your post; just a couple of errors to fix and then you're DONE! When you left the BLUE wire from the switch out of the equation... that's where everything took a bad turn!

That's your 'Main Feed' from the power source (battery), to the OPT7 system operation relay! So there are a couple of things that I do differently when installing a dash switch e.g., AOB, Slee-off road... and the like.

I don't use the factory's recommendations for the power source (Battery), because it's HOT AT ALL TIMES; which increases the chances of leaving the lights (or accessories) turned on when walking away from the vehicle!

I'll tap into the Front Center console (Power-point) Cigarette Lighter Lt Green wire to use as the Main power source, because it turns off when the vehicle is turned off for a "Fail-safe" operation!

You can ground the BLK wire from the AOB Sw, either to the chassis (fixed GND), or the GRAY Wire on any of the dash switches that light up with your parking lights e.g., wiper heater, RSCS (Safety SRS system), or whatever's convenient!

The GRAY wire is 'ALWAYS' ground from the dimmer switch (the Green is always the HOT "Illumination" courtesy circuit), or you can just ground your switch to any available Bolt under the dash near the E-brake in the chassis;

...the choice is yours, but the on indicator/glowing switch face icon, just won't dim with the others. I didn't bother to tap the GRAY wire because of it's size, 22ga(?), and if you cut too short, or break one, the repair resolution is a B***H to get at!

I think that's it for you... just affix the power source to the appropriate AOB switch wire (Green/yel), BLK is the ground for the power on indicator, and the BLUE/YEL feeds the relay at term 86 (don't know what color wire your OPT7 harness uses to feed the relay coil), but just find that out and you're DONE!

If you have any other issues, hit me back and I'll be happy to help-out however possible! 'Best to you',

rig
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Last edited by rigtec; 10-11-2019 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:51 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigtec View Post
Hi Primo, @Cymon !

I just read your post; just a couple of errors to fix and then you're DONE! When you left the BLUE wire from the switch out of the equation... that's where everything took a bad turn!

That's your 'Main Feed' from the power source (battery), to the OPT7 system operation relay! So there are a couple of things that I do differently when installing a dash switch e.g., AOB, Slee-off road... and the like.

I don't use the factory's recommendations for the power source (Battery), because it's HOT AT ALL TIMES; which increases the chances of leaving the lights (or accessories) turned on when walking away from the vehicle!

I'll tap into the Front Center console (Power-point) Cigarette Lighter Lt Green wire to use as the Main power source, because it turns off when the vehicle is turned off for a "Fail-safe" operation!

You can ground the BLK wire from the AOB Sw, either to the chassis (fixed GND), or the GRAY Wire on any of the dash switches that light up with your parking lights e.g., wiper heater, RSCS (Safety SRS system), or whatever's convenient!

The GRAY wire is 'ALWAYS' ground from the dimmer switch (the Green is always the HOT "Illumination" courtesy circuit), or you can just ground your switch to any available Bolt under the dash near the E-brake in the chassis;

...the choice is yours, but the on indicator/glowing switch face icon, just won't dim with the others. I didn't bother to tap the GRAY wire because of it's size, 22ga(?), and if you cut too short, or break one, the repair resolution is a B***H to get at!

I think that's it for you... just affix the power source to the appropriate AOB switch wire (Green/yel), BLK is the ground for the power on indicator, and the BLUE/YEL feeds the relay at term 86 (don't know what color wire your OPT7 harness uses to feed the relay coil), but just find that out and you're DONE!

If you have any other issues, hit me back and I'll be happy to help-out however possible! 'Best to you',

rig


Thanks a bunch rig. According to my AOB switch wiring diagram it is the green wire that is the main feed. The blue wire is only for switch illumination. The wires om my switch are red, green, black and blue. I do like the idea of tapping off the cigarette lighter but I have all working now and if I forget my 32in led light bar is on then I have other issues. At some point maybe I will switch it. Thank you for the great information. Very much appreciated,

Primo
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Old 10-11-2019, 03:12 PM #10
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@rigtec coming through in the clutch. Thanks for the detailed explanation!

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Old 10-11-2019, 03:20 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Primo View Post
Thanks a bunch rig. According to my AOB switch wiring diagram it is the green wire that is the main feed. The blue wire is only for switch illumination. The wires om my switch are red, green, black and blue. I do like the idea of tapping off the cigarette lighter but I have all working now and if I forget my 32in led light bar is on then I have other issues. At some point maybe I will switch it. Thank you for the great information. Very much appreciated,

Primo
Hey Primo,

I just saw that and was writting about the difference between the two Identical series diagrams; mine may be posted somewhere on forum... trouble is, Photo Bucket is now using a large WATER MARK on all images that were processed/converted there... and I'm NOT spending any $$$,00 to feed their greedy pockets, lol!

The copy that I have here is as you replied, is different than the one already posted by @Cymon , so just go with his for now, and if you have any trouble, then go with the wire colors as I described; it's gotta be one or the other; just not sure (Now) which one is correct! ...but thanks for the "Heads-up"!

rig, cheers!
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:00 PM #12
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I'm not an electrician either but I'm looking to install a ditch light setup this coming week. I have a feeling this thread will be of assistance! Thank you!
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:54 PM #13
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Old 12-23-2020, 10:50 AM #14
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Thank you guys, you all helped me install it myself. Since I am new to this topic, I have already made mistakes more than once and even a couple of times my wiring burned out. It is good that there are forums where they can always help, but it often happens that the answer comes much later than we would like. Therefore, on the advice of my friend, I turn to these guys https://bates-electric.com/locations/miami-fl/ which helps me quickly solve problems that are related to the wiring and its connection.

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