How is this metal framed filter (TRD etc) any better than the standard OEM filter? The paper element does the filtration and I bet it’s the same thing in both.

I didn't realize that royal purple made an oil filter for our rigs, looks to be another great option if your in the market for a synthetic oil filter. Thanks for sharing.

Well the results are in, looks like the Fram took a beating from the 10w30. 7000k+ miles, the last 1100 miles I pulled a loaded trailer from Michigan to Florida, locked in s4 she was huffing and puffing. The fram box shows a wire backing but it’s just marketing, no re-enforced wire backing. Did it Fail? I would have to say yes, however, it didn’t come apart. But it did lose its structural integrity.

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Fram has a technical information bulletin on collapsed oil filters https://www.fram.com/media/1084/coll...entertubes.pdf I'm also wondering if one of the end o-rings from an Amsoil or TRD filter came off, remained stuck and caused the Fram filter to buckle during installation. After several Google searches and looking at photos of deformed oil filter cartridges, I think this Fram filter is twisted, not collapsed. The first image appears to show twist. Do you have a micrometer to measure this Fram filter height and compare it with a new OEM filter? As I recall, the center metal tube is spring loaded, so it should accommodate small variations in cartridge height. Do you have the metal oil filter cap? If so, did you install the longer center tube and is it free to move slightly? I have doubts about oil weight causing this. I suggest sending the photos to Fram and asking them what happened. https://fram.pissedconsumer.com/customer-service.html

Not sure what is to be gained by not using the original Toyota filter. The cost of oil filters is trivial relative to the overall cost of ownership.

Fram is garbage, has been for many years.

Your pics simply show that the length of the filter was compressed when mounted. There really is no failure of the media as you show it.
In reality it is a common occurrence with this type of filter assembly, especially for example, with the GM EcoTech engine family, where literally gazillions were made, and yet the engine has the least amount of warranty claims of any GM engine ever.

The problem is caused by a filter cartridge that may be a hair too long combined with less stellar (rigid) filter material. When installed the spring loaded relief valve is too strong for the media and slightly twists and distorts the media. You can measure the cartridge with Vernier Calipers.
The spring loaded metal tube assembly reference previously is the filter bypass, not to be confused with the oil pressure pump bypass. When the filter media becomes full and cannot process oil, it moves to allow the oil to bypass the filter completely.
The GM EcoTech filter relief assembly has a spring that is easily 2 or 3 times stronger than ours, hence why it is much more common.

This opens up a whole other can of worms.
What is the micron rating of various filters and when will they bypass.
You have absolutely no way of knowing, although I can guarantee that at 0°F using 50wt oil, at cold startup, the filter will bypass until the engine comes up to temp. Something you really don't want. Delicate balancing act.
For some reason, the micron spec is not commonly advertised.
Too big and doesn't filter adequately but flows well and to fine and filters almost anything but goes over relief a lot, can't handle the flow.

So, personally, I use the OEM filter, can't beat the dealer price, if I remember correctly it's less than 3 bucks, has strong media that doesn't collapse, and I'm guessing has the appropriate micron rating.
One can always change just the filter to extend oil changes a bit.

I too gave up on Fram decades ago, but their racing line supposedly is up to par, others can test it.

2016 runner here
Ive been running mobile 1 0w-30 and 5w-30 during summer months only, rest of the year is 0w-20... driving an equal mix of city and interstate speeds

I switch between toyota filter and wix (which is found locally), I swapped the plastic filter canister for the metal version ...dealer tightened the plastic one so tight I had to break it to get it off ( I also raised hell with them and got a loaner vehicle while I waited for the part to come in)...they also installed the skid plate bolts with an impact wrench and stripped the bolts

No I didn't take any measurements of the oil filter and I'm still running the plastic housing. I guess looking at it as the "glass half full" I'm glad it didn't come apart. My main disappointment is the Fram box showed a wire backing to support the filter media but its just a marketing scam.
I'm currently running the Amsoil and the construction is fantastic; I'll repot back on it.

Yes Sir, that 5w30 in summer is "Butter Smooth"! I'm currently running a 10w30 and the engine sounds and feels really good.

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OEM says 0/20W full synthetic. Why are you using 10/30W?

Lab testing shows that oil specific viscosity changed with temp. let's say xW20 oil at 100 deg Celsius or 220 deg Fahrenheit has oil viscosity only 8 some units. However, oil xW30 at same testing temp has 12 (some units)? It is not same viscosity that shows on label 20 or 30, it is real viscosity inside working engine.
In FL oil weight 40 for naturally aspirated engine probably ok. In PA oil weight 40 for turbo engines is norm. 1GR-FE original oil 5W30 and I stick with it.

My 2019 owners manual states "an oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if vehicle is operated at high speed or under load conditions". Normally I run a 5w30 or 0w30 but being in Florida full time now the 10w30 does very well down here in the heat.
Just as an FYI the following oils are approved in Puerto Rico:
0w20
5w20
5w30
10w30
15w40

I began using 5W-30 in my 2011 Trail after noting Toyota recommends 5W-30 in a 2011 Tacoma with the 4L 1GR-FE engine.

This happens daily. Not sure why people continue to go to the dealer for anything besides warranty work.