10-20-2019, 11:01 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
Posts: 1,984
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
Posts: 1,984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH
104,000 here.
I posted pics on this thread at 101,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains
looks like those pads are not used much .. no traffic in your area every day ... In my area eastern massachusetts it is a traffic mess.. so 45K driving to work on the hyways to from Boston is brake wear at lower miles.
it is variable ...on when to do the pad work..
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For sure. Even living here in the Sierras I use my brakes hard but nowhere near as much as a big city commuter.
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10-20-2019, 12:19 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Last Great Place
Posts: 1,317
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Last Great Place
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My wife gets about 70K to 80K out of the fronts. Finally replaced rears at 145K. I addition to primary residence in Orange County, CA, we have a mountain home up at Big Bear Lake, CA plus a ranch in Montana. She has warped rotors, but latest set of Raybestos slotted rotors have solved that. Using Raybestos Advanced technology pads and rotors to great results.
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10-20-2019, 05:05 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 33
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 33
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I'm at just over 50k and the dealer told me my pads were 4mm in the rear and 6mm in front. I've only had the vehicle for a few months so i have no idea how it's been driven.
The discs look good, just looking through the rims, so I think I will probably just throw some new pads in. Any recommendations for pads that aren't going to turn the wheels black from brake dust?
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10-20-2019, 05:31 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Denver
Posts: 292
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Denver
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I swapped my original pads and rotors at 75k due to some rotor warp that was giving me brake pulsing. I could have likely gotten the rotors turned and just replaced front pads at the time but figured while I was at it I would replace everything. The dealer quoted me something like $800-900 for pads+rotors w/labor. I believe I spent about $300 in parts and 4 hours of my time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoop
The discs look good, just looking through the rims, so I think I will probably just throw some new pads in. Any recommendations for pads that aren't going to turn the wheels black from brake dust?
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I personally recommend OEM pads and be sure to break in/bed the new pads properly. Best of Luck
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10-25-2019, 09:06 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Dusty
I swapped my original pads and rotors at 75k due to some rotor warp that was giving me brake pulsing. I could have likely gotten the rotors turned and just replaced front pads at the time but figured while I was at it I would replace everything. The dealer quoted me something like $800-900 for pads+rotors w/labor. I believe I spent about $300 in parts and 4 hours of my time.
I personally recommend OEM pads and be sure to break in/bed the new pads properly. Best of Luck
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when I replace rotors I clean the rotor metal with mineral spirits .. then I sand the rotor surface with 180/220 sand paper in a rotation .. this will have the new pads set quickly and not create and heat issue when braking in .
I also add a small amount of high temp anti seize on the hub so the rotor will come off easy when replacing the rotor ..
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10-25-2019, 09:13 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donovan1
Sounds about right. My wife doesn't drive that fast, but everything is full pedal, be it brakes or gas.
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Mine too. I refer to my wife's driving as "binary style". Which is rough on everything in her 6,000 lb. behemoth of a vehicle. 13 mpg with premium gas haha. She eats tires in like 15k miles.
The brakes on mine were toast at 60k and again around 125k. The second time, both front calipers needed to be replaced as well.
Last edited by kenwilliams0803; 10-25-2019 at 09:16 AM.
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10-25-2019, 11:05 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Export, PA
Posts: 315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoop
I'm at just over 50k and the dealer told me my pads were 4mm in the rear and 6mm in front. I've only had the vehicle for a few months so i have no idea how it's been driven.
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4mm and and 6mm will last some time.
Good indicator to replace breaks is a squeaky sounds when driving on low speed... roll your window down and listen.
I got 75K on front and 80K on rear (rears were really low when I replaced them).
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10-25-2019, 11:36 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 857
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I drive heavy trafffic and get 90-100k miles easy. There are two different replacement pads, the crappy ones and the good ones. the good ones part#'s are:
48131-35650 front
04466-60140 rear
There is a thread somewhere that gives both the good and cheap part #'s.
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10-25-2019, 05:22 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ukie
4mm and and 6mm will last some time.
Good indicator to replace breaks is a squeaky sounds when driving on low speed... roll your window down and listen.
I got 75K on front and 80K on rear (rears were really low when I replaced them).
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Coincidently, I stopped at the dealer today and bought new pads and shims for both front and rear, $268, before I saw this post.
Now the question is do I gamble that they make it through the winter or replace them now while I can do it in my driveway... I'm in Minnesota, so in about a month or so I'll have to take it somewhere to get them done, rather than do it myself, if it becomes necessary.
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10-25-2019, 05:54 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: U. S. A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoop
Now the question is do I gamble that they make it through the winter or replace them now while I can do it in my driveway... I'm in Minnesota, so in about a month or so I'll have to take it somewhere to get them done, rather than do it myself, if it becomes necessary.
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You live in one of the coldest/snowiest places in North America. I'm assuming your pads were getting low - hence the reason for the purchase.
If it were my vehicle, I would get busy and change out the parts you bought before you find yourself dealing with 6 months of white.
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10-26-2019, 10:08 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoop
Coincidently, I stopped at the dealer today and bought new pads and shims for both front and rear, $268, before I saw this post.
Now the question is do I gamble that they make it through the winter or replace them now while I can do it in my driveway... I'm in Minnesota, so in about a month or so I'll have to take it somewhere to get them done, rather than do it myself, if it becomes necessary.
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Depends on how much you drive and what type of driving. I'd personally do it now but my T4R will see 20k miles between now and spring so I am biased. If it's more like 5-10k for you and not all stop and go, you are probably fine with what you have until it warms back up.
And FYI on the squeakers/wear indicators, not all aftermarket pads have them so depending what's on there now you might not ever get that sound before it's metal on metal. I don't know if your brakes have been done before and with what parts. I can tell you I have never let a pad get all the way down to a squeaker in 20+ years, I am more vigilant than that. Those things are made for people who don't keep on top of their vehicles and just take them to the dealer and go "my car is making a scraping squeaking sound, can you fix it?"
"Yes ma'am that'll be $1k for new brakes all around."
Last edited by kenwilliams0803; 10-26-2019 at 10:17 AM.
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10-26-2019, 08:52 PM
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#27
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker
I drive heavy trafffic and get 90-100k miles easy. There are two different replacement pads, the crappy ones and the good ones. the good ones part#'s are:
48131-35650 front
04466-60140 rear
There is a thread somewhere that gives both the good and cheap part #'s.
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I posted the cheapo ones in a referenced thread in my previous post above.
Here they are again.
Do Not Use
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM
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2010 Trail - 135k mi - KDSS - Classic Silver Metallic - Bilstein 5100s - Tires: Michelin X-LT A/S 36psi - Oil: M1 EP 5W/30 - Diffs and T/C: Delvac 75W-90 Synthetic - Toyota WS ATF - ScanGauge - Viofo dashcam - Husky Weatherbeaters - Plasti Dip wheels and chrome delete - Wheel Center Caps delete - Roof Rack Cross Bars delete - Cargo Tray divider delete
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10-26-2019, 09:05 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oakland, California
Posts: 691
Real Name: Justin
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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Posts: 691
Real Name: Justin
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92K front – pads, rotors, hardware
104K rear – pads and hardware, replaced brake fluid
Fronts were replaced mainly due to warped rotors
FWIW, I never replaced the rear brakes at all on my 99 taco with 274K but did the front 3 times.
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10-27-2019, 03:54 AM
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#29
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Location: Kuwait City, Kuwait
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mine lasted ~45k miles..
Not bad considering it's lifted, extra weight from mods, aggressive driving, traffic, plenty of offroad and crawl control action. Better driving habits would definitely help them last longer
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10-27-2019, 06:00 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 33
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH
I posted the cheapo ones in a referenced thread in my previous post above.
Here they are again.
Do Not Use
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM
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Are those Toyota part #s? I'll have to check the ones I bought and see which they are.
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