10-27-2019, 10:04 PM
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#31
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
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Location: Northern NV
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Yes, they are part of Toyota’s TCMC program: Toyota Complete Maintenance Care.
Not well regarded but probably designed to hit a price point.
Here’s an opinion.
Toyota Factory Replacement Brakes vs. TCMC Brakes
And a couple of PDFs
https://www.rav4world.com/d1/attachm...TT-0132-11.pdf
https://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners...nal%5B1%5D.pdf
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2010 Trail - 135k mi - KDSS - Classic Silver Metallic - Bilstein 5100s - Tires: Michelin X-LT A/S 36psi - Oil: M1 EP 5W/30 - Diffs and T/C: Delvac 75W-90 Synthetic - Toyota WS ATF - ScanGauge - Viofo dashcam - Husky Weatherbeaters - Plasti Dip wheels and chrome delete - Wheel Center Caps delete - Roof Rack Cross Bars delete - Cargo Tray divider delete
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10-27-2019, 10:16 PM
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#32
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Age: 55
Posts: 183
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Age: 55
Posts: 183
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i changed out both front and rear pads at 45K
front and rear pads were evenly worn, only noticed when i was driving slowly in a parking lot and could hear the squeal.
Also replaced the front rotors due to warping
I drive it 95% of the time
I run 275/70/17 BFG's with toytec spacers on a limited.
Happy with brake pad replacements at 45-50K, seems normal to me.
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10-28-2019, 12:30 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Coastal NC
Posts: 109
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Location: Coastal NC
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I replaced the rear pads at around 42k. Fronts are still original. I'm at 46k now and not the original owner. I bought the truck used with 23k on the odo.
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2014 4Runner Limited - Barcelona Red
LFD Offroad 3/4 Roof Rack, Eibach Pro-Truck suspension kit, TE rocker conversion, OEM running boards from a TRD OR, 17x8 -10 FN Countersteer Type-X wheels, Cooper AT3 4S tires 265/70-17.
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10-28-2019, 01:22 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 17
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Junior Member
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Replaced all pads at around 70-75k. Fronts we’re starting to squeal and failed safety inspection. Rears had some life left over but figured I might as well get it all done at once.
SR5 with 275’s on a stock suspension. 20k a year, most of it highway. I have a lead foot on the accelerator but I’m a little better with the brake.
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10-28-2019, 01:36 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Export, PA
Posts: 315
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Location: Export, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoop
Are those Toyota part #s? I'll have to check the ones I bought and see which they are.
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yes, they are.
Here's what I got to replace my rear breaks:
Brake Pads 04466-60140 1 $49.41 New
Shim Kit Anti Squea 04946-60141 1 $19.05 New
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2011 4Runner SR5 4x4, Black, Sand Beige Leather, 3rd row.
AVS Bugflector II, OEM Mudguards, SPAREBUMPER SP424 - Black, Infinity Kappa 32.9cf Dash Speakers,
GY Wrangler Silent Armor, 265/70R17, Load C, Weathertech side visors, Husky WeatherBeaters, ~16.5 MPG
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10-30-2019, 08:06 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NH
Posts: 229
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NH
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I just swapped out the pads on my 2011 that has 55k on it. They were original and about 2/3 worn but it was primarily a city rig prior to me getting it. I put Brembo pads on it and honestly am surprised how much more I like them than the factory pads. Usually I go OE but had used these in the past and liked them. Better pedal feel for sure which is one thing I always disliked about this truck. Can't wait to install the stoptech hoses I have had lying around for the past year and flush it out with ATE gold.
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Toyota 4x4 #17 - 2011 4Runner Trail Edition
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11-04-2019, 04:03 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Hostile City
Posts: 144
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i have a 2012 TE and the brakes have been grabbing slightly recently. i bought it at 55k and now there is 64k ish on it. i think im going to get one of those free brake inspections from Mavis Tire and see what the story is.
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11-04-2019, 06:04 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: TX
Posts: 133
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains
45K mile on brakes is normal pad replacing when driving in traffic .
cutting rotors is IMO N/G... rotors when cut will get distorted because of metal loss. I never cut my rotors in 50 yrs ...waste of $$$ and more loss of use.
I replace my rotors at 10yr or when the rotor has rust blisters on the surface.
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Does this mean that if a rotor got warped, you would replace it instead of having it turned?
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11-04-2019, 06:36 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
Posts: 1,987
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Senior Member
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Location: Northern NV
Posts: 1,987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ukie
yes, they are.
Here's what I got to replace my rear breaks:
Brake Pads 04466-60140 1 $49.41 New
Shim Kit Anti Squea 04946-60141 1 $19.05 New
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That's the correct part number for the rear pads.
0446660140 - Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear). Pads, MARK, Brakes - Genuine Toyota Part
And most important, that is the correct shim kit for the rears.
Comes with 4 shims (1 per pad) and 2 clips (1 per caliper)
0494660141 - Shim kit, anti squeal(for rear disc brake). Suspension, brakes - Genuine Toyota Part
and then I believe you still need these.
0494722050 - Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Front, Rear). Fitting Kit, Disc Brake - Genuine Toyota Part
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2010 Trail - 135k mi - KDSS - Classic Silver Metallic - Bilstein 5100s - Tires: Michelin X-LT A/S 36psi - Oil: M1 EP 5W/30 - Diffs and T/C: Delvac 75W-90 Synthetic - Toyota WS ATF - ScanGauge - Viofo dashcam - Husky Weatherbeaters - Plasti Dip wheels and chrome delete - Wheel Center Caps delete - Roof Rack Cross Bars delete - Cargo Tray divider delete
Last edited by 1000MPH; 11-04-2019 at 06:57 PM.
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11-04-2019, 06:39 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,183
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Location: Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GG5thGen
Does this mean that if a rotor got warped, you would replace it instead of having it turned?
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rotors warped , rusted blisters on surface buy new...
I never had the rotors warp .. reason is I use the silicone brake grease on the cal pins and also I make sure that the pads do not stick/bind ..
replacing brake pads I open the bleed screw and use a C clamp to push the piston in so that ALL that nasty brake fluid is dumped out of the system.. professionals most do not do this type process..
when replacing the pads keep the brake pedal down so that the master cylinder will not get air air in the system..
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11-04-2019, 07:35 PM
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#41
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: East Bay
Posts: 4,584
Real Name: Sparky
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Mine was a Colorado truck for most of its life and the pads were shot after 50-55k both times.
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Old and (c)rusty.
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11-05-2019, 02:35 AM
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#42
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 968
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Location: Texas
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I'm just over 60k miles on our 2017 now. Recently they started squealing so I was getting ready to replace them. Pulled off the front tires and both sides had quite a bit of life left, so I held off. Drove it a little more and the squealing stopped, so I guess it was just a rock/dirt causing the squeal.
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11-05-2019, 03:47 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains
rotors warped , rusted blisters on surface buy new...
I never had the rotors warp .. reason is I use the silicone brake grease on the cal pins and also I make sure that the pads do not stick/bind ..
replacing brake pads I open the bleed screw and use a C clamp to push the piston in so that ALL that nasty brake fluid is dumped out of the system.. professionals most do not do this type process..
when replacing the pads keep the brake pedal down so that the master cylinder will not get air air in the system..
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It seems like some service centers routinely turn the rotors when they do a brake job. I can't see where removing metal from the rotors could be a good thing. I used to do my own brakes back in the sixties when I was in high school and they were drum brakes and easy to do. Nowadays, I rely on the dealer to do those things. I drive like the old guy I am so my brakes tend to last a long time.
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11-05-2019, 05:04 PM
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#44
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 86
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Location: Florida
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I feel turning a rotor is a waste of money.
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11-05-2019, 06:30 PM
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#45
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Denver
Posts: 296
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GG5thGen
I can't see where removing metal from the rotors could be a good thing.
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Re-surfacing to remove rust and getting them true are two good reasons. As long as the removal work doesn't exceed the min rotor thickness (stamped on your rotor) it will work with the braking system as intended.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YelloLab
I feel turning a rotor is a waste of money.
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If you have ever driven a vehicle with warped rotors its pretty terrifying and it is a waste to buy new rotors every brake job. $10-20 turn fee per rotor vs. $50-80 per new rotor is the difference.
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