115k / km on them , all came out with a bit of a fight except one , top one in pic , it came out way too easy and seems to have oil on the threads and end looks worse than the other 5 that all look identical in wear and color , hummmm interesting , big difference in milage and engine smoothness , i would change out sooner than the recommended 150k/km.

Easy job ,did not have to remove any other items to complete job.

Remember to blow bore out with air before starting and i also blow it out again when plug is 3/4 way out incase anything falls off threads .

also use anti sieze on threads of new ones

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How long of an extension did you need? I bought a GearWrench spark plug socket with a swivel extension that stays attached for my Ram. Hoping it also works on the 4Runner. Ours still seems to be running pretty smooth but it's hard to compare to new after 95k miles. I will do them soon.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80.../dp/B0014ZVSVK

uses all kinds of extensions and combinations there of . lol the best answer i can give ya , each plug is different situation for lengths of extension needed so your ratchet wont hit anything

That gearwrench extension for spark plugs is great! I use it for my brothers Jeep and my 4runner, same size plug

I may be off a year, but around 2013, Toyota added more air emissions gadgetry that complicated spark plug removal. Not a tough job, just more stuff to take off and put back on. Here's some info, unfortunately the pics have disappeared but good for tools needed - YT video below should clear things up:

5th Gen 2014+ Spark Plug Removal (Air Injection Pump)


YT video - 2015 4R:

YouTube


Here's a plumbing diagram - pertinent areas outlined in orange - see YT video above:

25701B - part # 2570131013 - emission control valve set #1
25702B - part # 2570231013 - emission control valve set #2
17377 - part # 1737738010 - air tube gasket - there are 4 but only 2 needed for plug change
part # 94151-80841 - nut - 3 on each valve set
part # 91551-80620 - bolt - 2 on each air tube at valve set connection

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Thanks for posting that. I have a 2010 so the link also has Antman's thread that applies to what I need to do. Will try to get my sons to help me! I have done it on a '91 SHO and an '07 Maxima. Both require taking the entire damn intake manifold off. The 4Runner looks fine. My Dakota is pretty simple too. Now try this!

I would skip the anti-seize, these spark plugs don't need it and your torque specs will be off.

I would use it , all of them coming out except one were really tough to the point of I was worried of breaking em ,in fact they were tough right to the last thread , there was no spinning them out by hand once they were broke loose as most plugs are. the only one that came easy had oil on threads for some reason as I mentioned in above post. (something going on in that cyl for sure just don't want to know what lol)

I don't use a torque wrench on plugs , hand tight and 1/4 turn with gasket 1/8 turn if no gasket , your looking for trouble using a torque wrench on something with aluminum heads especially using a universal adapters on ratchet extensions , those alone will mess your torque rating up from binding, leverage etc ... and possibly cause ya to to strip them out or not make em tight enough , either one .

I can guarantee it will not be the correct torque on em using multiple extensions and universal on a torque wrench

If you read the manufacturer's recommendations, they'll state that the threads are plated or coated so that anti seize is not needed.

If you do decide to use it, adjust your torque so as to not strip out the aluminum threads in the head. Repairs could get very pricey.

And the Gearwrench plug socket/ext is great. Used it on my F150 5.4L with original plugs in it until 250k miles with no problems.

A great write up. I change the plugs on my Tacoma every 30K (now at 120K) and also decided to use anti-seize on them. Similar to the 4R I had issues removing the originals and didn't want a repeat of that scenario.

Use anti-seize.....run them down to bottom then 1/4 turn, compression of the washer rather than a torque spec is the way to go.