10-28-2019, 02:33 AM
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#16
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kirkland, WA
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Location: Kirkland, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnezie
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Thank you!
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10-28-2019, 08:49 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nb rob
The EXACT same thing happened to me!
The dealer said they would “overnight” a replacement, the next day I called to see what was going on and it wasn’t even ordered. I was then told it would take a week to get one, and they were going to charge me $180.
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this crossed my mind and why i didnt wait till monday to check to see if the dealer even had it in stock, placed my order on amazon so I know it will be here atleast by tuesday. Today I am calling them to give them an ear full ! Thank god I eventually got the oil filter to break free and didnt have to chip it away
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10-28-2019, 10:11 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 25
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well the dealer got an earful and agreed to give me a courtesy car till the part arrives, reluctantly because " i attempted the oil change myself"... I then gave him a rundown of my experience of working on engines which included oil changes and letting him know what little torque it takes to tighten the oil filter and it was tight to the point of cracking the assembly
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10-28-2019, 10:23 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: eastern Canada
Posts: 1,311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by callihan_44
this crossed my mind and why i didnt wait till monday to check to see if the dealer even had it in stock, placed my order on amazon so I know it will be here atleast by tuesday. Today I am calling them to give them an ear full ! Thank god I eventually got the oil filter to break free and didnt have to chip it away
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I had all of the non-threaded portion break free, and the threaded portion remained in place.
I was extremely worried that I would damage the threads of the engine portion (it's actually not part of the engine block, but another piece)...as I watched someone with an avalon destroy their engine block online by cutting away with a dremel and tearing up those threads-- I wound up finally breaking the inside threaded portion free by spending an afternoon with an old soldering iron scoring and melting through the plastic. it took more than 2 hours.
It had occurred to me that a hot soldering iron near oil on the underside of the engine was not safe or healthy-- but by that time I was ready to meet my maker.
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10-28-2019, 10:24 AM
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#20
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^^^^ and that was the worst day ever ^^^^
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10-28-2019, 10:37 AM
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#21
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 253
Real Name: Kevin
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Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nb rob
^^^^ and that was the worst day ever ^^^^
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Mine wasn't quite that bad but it did take a 24" pipe wrench turning it 1/16th of an inch at a time. It was Sunday and luckily O'Reilly's was open and had the Dorman in stock. When I took it to the counter, the dude just laughs and said "plastic one broke, eh".
The cheap one didn't leak but I did replace it with OEM at the next change and added a Fumoto valve.
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10-28-2019, 10:57 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Daddy K
Mine wasn't quite that bad but it did take a 24" pipe wrench turning it 1/16th of an inch at a time. It was Sunday and luckily O'Reilly's was open and had the Dorman in stock. When I took it to the counter, the dude just laughs and said "plastic one broke, eh".
The cheap one didn't leak but I did replace it with OEM at the next change and added a Fumoto valve.
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not to derail the thread, but that's on my wishlist too. Good call on the fumoto.
The doorman was pretty messy. I had to file some galling off of the threads. I've been meaning to replace it with the toyota OEM, but it's been flawless for the last 4 oil changes or so. Goes on and off buttery smooth. I replaced the center post with the original OEM one from the carnage
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OPOR sliders ● 255/75/17 firestone destination AT ●
King coilovers and shocks w/ compression adjust ● Dirtking UCAs ● Icon 2" rear springs
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10-28-2019, 11:26 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: YouTah
Age: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nb rob
I had all of the non-threaded portion break free, and the threaded portion remained in place.
I was extremely worried that I would damage the threads of the engine portion (it's actually not part of the engine block, but another piece)...as I watched someone with an avalon destroy their engine block online by cutting away with a dremel and tearing up those threads-- I wound up finally breaking the inside threaded portion free by spending an afternoon with an old soldering iron scoring and melting through the plastic. it took more than 2 hours.
It had occurred to me that a hot soldering iron near oil on the underside of the engine was not safe or healthy-- but by that time I was ready to meet my maker.
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That is some fkd up business right there
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10-28-2019, 01:16 PM
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#24
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Real Name: Mark
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Banned
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What a mess.
@ callihan_44
@ nb rob
@ Big Daddy K
, you are champs. Good recovery.
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10-28-2019, 02:58 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: illinois
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Real Name: Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclui56
I am thinking to skip swapping out the aluminum filter housing for plastic and just bite the bullet and get the Baxter spin-on adapter since clearance won't be an issue with the RCI skid.
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Definitely!!
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10-28-2019, 04:40 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclui56
I am thinking to skip swapping out the aluminum filter housing for plastic and just bite the bullet and get the Baxter spin-on adapter since clearance won't be an issue with the RCI skid.
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$200 for the adapter is nuts. I see the aluminum filter housing online for $18 shipped or so. I've done 12 oil changes (2 at dealer) and no issues on the plastic piece but never liked that material.
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10-28-2019, 05:26 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
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I think a soldering iron and some oil would only produce some smoke and of course an oil smell.
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10-28-2019, 06:20 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrv9
I think a soldering iron and some oil would only produce some smoke and of course an oil smell.
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you are correct. and the occasional hot drip of oil. And of course, fumes from melting plastic
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2015 trail edition premium w/ KDSS
OPOR sliders ● 255/75/17 firestone destination AT ●
King coilovers and shocks w/ compression adjust ● Dirtking UCAs ● Icon 2" rear springs
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10-28-2019, 06:22 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 325
Real Name: Ben
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I have been the only one to change my oil, and the first thing I did is add the Fumoto drain. The only problem with it is that it takes a bit longer to get all the oil drained out of that smaller opening. But it sits under the skid, and I don't have to worry about plug gaskets or stripping threads. And I haven't had any issues yet with the plastic housing, but I'm removing it myself. The one thing I bypass is trying to remove the plug and use the plastic adapter to pop up the valve and drain the oil. I just unthread the housing and let it drain like I would a normal oil filter before removing it. A little more wiping my hands off, but less frustration. That damn plastic adapter is a pain to get in there juuuuussst right, and I had oil sprayed all over the place before I finally got it right. I can catch all of the oil dripping down the sides of the housing. I can't guess where the plastic tool will get it to ricochet and then I have way more cleanup to do.
The only other thing I did was ditch the plastic retainer on the front air dam thing. One less tool to take with me underneath
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10-29-2019, 08:29 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
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well amazon prime paid for itself , the part was delivered yesterday a day early...thank god because winter weather is coming . I think the oem aluminum housing actually goes in smoother than the plastic one does, I popped out the center tube as described in another thread and didnt have to bend the tabs...just push the tube to one side and the opposing side pops out of socket, I had it done in about 10 seconds and installed in the new housing. When screwing in the new housing it does have an abrupt stop point when it bottoms out, feels nice and secure and NOT over tightened ! I highly recommend this swap!
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