Thank you!

this crossed my mind and why i didnt wait till monday to check to see if the dealer even had it in stock, placed my order on amazon so I know it will be here atleast by tuesday. Today I am calling them to give them an ear full ! Thank god I eventually got the oil filter to break free and didnt have to chip it away

well the dealer got an earful and agreed to give me a courtesy car till the part arrives, reluctantly because " i attempted the oil change myself"... I then gave him a rundown of my experience of working on engines which included oil changes and letting him know what little torque it takes to tighten the oil filter and it was tight to the point of cracking the assembly

I had all of the non-threaded portion break free, and the threaded portion remained in place.

I was extremely worried that I would damage the threads of the engine portion (it's actually not part of the engine block, but another piece)...as I watched someone with an avalon destroy their engine block online by cutting away with a dremel and tearing up those threads-- I wound up finally breaking the inside threaded portion free by spending an afternoon with an old soldering iron scoring and melting through the plastic. it took more than 2 hours.

It had occurred to me that a hot soldering iron near oil on the underside of the engine was not safe or healthy-- but by that time I was ready to meet my maker.

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^^^^ and that was the worst day ever ^^^^

Mine wasn't quite that bad but it did take a 24" pipe wrench turning it 1/16th of an inch at a time. It was Sunday and luckily O'Reilly's was open and had the Dorman in stock. When I took it to the counter, the dude just laughs and said "plastic one broke, eh".
The cheap one didn't leak but I did replace it with OEM at the next change and added a Fumoto valve.

not to derail the thread, but that's on my wishlist too. Good call on the fumoto.

The doorman was pretty messy. I had to file some galling off of the threads. I've been meaning to replace it with the toyota OEM, but it's been flawless for the last 4 oil changes or so. Goes on and off buttery smooth. I replaced the center post with the original OEM one from the carnage

That is some fkd up business right there

What a mess. @callihan_44 @nb rob @Big Daddy K , you are champs. Good recovery.

Definitely!!

$200 for the adapter is nuts. I see the aluminum filter housing online for $18 shipped or so. I've done 12 oil changes (2 at dealer) and no issues on the plastic piece but never liked that material.

I think a soldering iron and some oil would only produce some smoke and of course an oil smell.

you are correct. and the occasional hot drip of oil. And of course, fumes from melting plastic

I have been the only one to change my oil, and the first thing I did is add the Fumoto drain. The only problem with it is that it takes a bit longer to get all the oil drained out of that smaller opening. But it sits under the skid, and I don't have to worry about plug gaskets or stripping threads. And I haven't had any issues yet with the plastic housing, but I'm removing it myself. The one thing I bypass is trying to remove the plug and use the plastic adapter to pop up the valve and drain the oil. I just unthread the housing and let it drain like I would a normal oil filter before removing it. A little more wiping my hands off, but less frustration. That damn plastic adapter is a pain to get in there juuuuussst right, and I had oil sprayed all over the place before I finally got it right. I can catch all of the oil dripping down the sides of the housing. I can't guess where the plastic tool will get it to ricochet and then I have way more cleanup to do.
The only other thing I did was ditch the plastic retainer on the front air dam thing. One less tool to take with me underneath

well amazon prime paid for itself , the part was delivered yesterday a day early...thank god because winter weather is coming . I think the oem aluminum housing actually goes in smoother than the plastic one does, I popped out the center tube as described in another thread and didnt have to bend the tabs...just push the tube to one side and the opposing side pops out of socket, I had it done in about 10 seconds and installed in the new housing. When screwing in the new housing it does have an abrupt stop point when it bottoms out, feels nice and secure and NOT over tightened ! I highly recommend this swap!