10-27-2019, 12:37 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 25
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Stupid dealer, plastic oil filter assembly
Dealer CRANKED down the oil filter assembly after courtesy oil change , It is now time to change the oil so I dive in after receiving my oil filter and motivx wrench ..all bolts holding the skid plate must have been put on with a impact wrench, way too tight....oil drain plug NO, I repeat NO gasket..however I did not find any leaking oil...it was cranked down as well.
Next up oil filter, bottom screw on drain plug came off fine no issues but then came time to get the filter off..WILL NOT budge, I take a break gathering my thoughts and pulled up youtube on my phone to see about how much force it should take to get this thing off, Ive been changing oil since the mid 80's so I figured this assembly should take roughly the same amount as a spin on filter. I try again and add a little more oomph and snap! broke off a tab and then oil running out the side of the assembly... Saturday evening, dealer parts CLOSED and local parts stores do not carry it...UGH! Pull up amazon and order aluminum housing which leaves the 4runner stranded till Tuesday
the free dealer oil change is NOT worth this...
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10-27-2019, 01:01 AM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: N California (really, 4 hours N of SF)
Posts: 333
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: N California (really, 4 hours N of SF)
Posts: 333
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The faces on everyone in the waiting room for the free service looks the same as the faces at the dmv. Next time your in for parts check it out you’ll see. Never.
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1973 Datsun 240z (traded in for ---->) 1981 Toyota 4x4 Deluxe LB (avatar) stolen while sitting with For Sale sign on it / 1987 Chevrolet Suburban 4x4, workhorse - sold / 1984 Buick Grand National - Totaled, rear-ended / 1986 Buick Grand National - Sold then restified, lives in SF now / 1994 Toyota Camry - 240k - Taken to Austin Tx by son, traded in on VW GTI sport / 2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 212k - still pulling Arctic Fox Trailer - This is the shtf vehicle / 2018 Toyota 4runner TRD Pro Cavalry Blue
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10-27-2019, 01:47 AM
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#3
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: LAX
Posts: 54
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: LAX
Posts: 54
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My experience yesterday was slightly different. I had installed the RCI skid on my daughter's '18, it is time for the 10k service and I removed the skid before going in, didn't want to end up with jacked up bolts afterward. After the change, I went home and pulled up by front curb ready to reinstall the skid, gathered my tools and saw a small puddle on the ground, got under and noticed the darn housing drain plug was missing. At least that drain is spring-loaded so the leakage wasn't too severe before I made it back to the dealer.
I have the alloy housing and Fumoto so I will be doing the 15k myself. Free service is not worth the hassle.
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10-27-2019, 02:26 AM
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#4
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Member
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 545
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Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 545
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Toyota dealers use an oil filter wrench that grabs on the flats and not the ears. That’s why they don’t have trouble removing them even when over tightened.
This is a similar one they use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B8O0BFU
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10-27-2019, 03:22 AM
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#5
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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There must be hundreds of stories on this forum about dealer screwups during oil changes/tire rotations. Stripped or cross-threaded bolts, over torqued bolts, missing bolts, bashed-in hub caps, over-torqued lug nuts, over-torqued oil filter housings, etc. Gotta do your own oil service to be sure the right oil is used and everything is done correctly. You’ll want to chase the threads of your skid plate bolts and threaded inserts (tap and die) in case the dealer buggered them up. Torque everything per the Toyota specs. Search the forum for more info or refer to the Maintenance link:
DIY maintenance quick reference - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
Good luck.
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10-27-2019, 11:44 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: eastern Canada
Posts: 1,311
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: eastern Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by callihan_44
Dealer CRANKED down the oil filter assembly after courtesy oil change , It is now time to change the oil so I dive in after receiving my oil filter and motivx wrench ..all bolts holding the skid plate must have been put on with a impact wrench, way too tight....oil drain plug NO, I repeat NO gasket..however I did not find any leaking oil...it was cranked down as well.
Next up oil filter, bottom screw on drain plug came off fine no issues but then came time to get the filter off..WILL NOT budge, I take a break gathering my thoughts and pulled up youtube on my phone to see about how much force it should take to get this thing off, Ive been changing oil since the mid 80's so I figured this assembly should take roughly the same amount as a spin on filter. I try again and add a little more oomph and snap! broke off a tab and then oil running out the side of the assembly... Saturday evening, dealer parts CLOSED and local parts stores do not carry it...UGH! Pull up amazon and order aluminum housing which leaves the 4runner stranded till Tuesday
the free dealer oil change is NOT worth this...
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The EXACT same thing happened to me!
The dealer said they would “overnight” a replacement, the next day I called to see what was going on and it wasn’t even ordered. I was then told it would take a week to get one, and they were going to charge me $180.
I hung up, ordered a metal doorman filter canister, and it arrived at napa a few hours later.
I will never let them change my oil again, and I’ve never been back to that dealer.
Now when I change my oil, I hand tighten the canister only. The tabs line up, good to go. It is designed to seat the side o-ring properly. This concept is lost on the professor doing the oil changes at Toyota
Oh, and it took me a full day to remove the old one piece by piece. What an absolute nightmare
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10-27-2019, 03:13 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
Posts: 1,299
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
Posts: 1,299
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I've got to admit I went for the free oil changes when we bought our 2013 SR5. After the last one I went to do it myself; and after reading some of the issues others have had, I was expecting the worst. Turns out I had no issues - no over tightened skid bolts and no leaks or damage to filter housing or mess from the work they did. I guess I lucked out by having a dealer that has done good work . They also did the timing belt change in our Tundra 4.7 with no issues. I ordered the parts from Amazon and got the oil locally. I did buy the good filter socket which worked well. I also printed and followed Antman's procedure which was a big help (thanks again Antman!)
I'm getting ready to do this again in the next day or two before it gets cold to stay. All I need is oil and I'll be ready. I ordered extra parts last time. As it hasn't been mentioned in this thread (I think) remember to use anti-seize on all bolt threads. Also, as of yesterday - WalMart's price for Mobil1 0W/20 synthetic oil is better than Amazon and local parts stores.
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10-27-2019, 04:18 PM
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#8
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: LAX
Posts: 54
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: LAX
Posts: 54
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I am thinking to skip swapping out the aluminum filter housing for plastic and just bite the bullet and get the Baxter spin-on adapter since clearance won't be an issue with the RCI skid.
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10-27-2019, 04:35 PM
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#9
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: WV
Posts: 328
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: WV
Posts: 328
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This and the skid plate bolts are why I won't let anyone else change the oil in my 4Runner.
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10-27-2019, 07:31 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 179
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kirkland, WA
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Sorry To ask but I can’t find this information. So...what is the part number for the aluminum housing?
Thanks in advance
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10-27-2019, 08:05 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
Posts: 1,299
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
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I worked with a guy who previously worked as a manager of one of those quick change oil and lube places. Some of the stories he told about the problems his workers created were frightening. Everything from not doing the work requested to draining the oil but not changing the filter and not putting new oil back in to taking a car on a joyride and totaling it. I'd rather just not change my oil before I trusted one of those places.
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10-27-2019, 09:42 PM
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#12
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Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 590
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shamish
Sorry To ask but I can’t find this information. So...what is the part number for the aluminum housing?
Thanks in advance
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Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly
Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A..._.CKTDb11PZ4VF
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-27-2019, 09:43 PM
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#13
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 590
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 590
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Don’t forget you have to swap out the center piece on the aluminum and plastic one.
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10-27-2019, 10:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,508
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnezie
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Make sure you get the one that is OEM Toyota. I got one from NAPA that was not and it leaked through the threads.
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2017 Off-road Premium w KDSS, moon roof, sliding rear cargo deck,3" Toytech Boss lift, SPC upper control arms, Sonoran Steel High Articulation KDSS Trac/PanHard Bar, RCI sliders, RCI skid plates aluminum including gas tank, C4 Fab diff skid plate, SCS Ray 10 Wheels Matte Gray, 285/70R17 Hankook Dynapro AT2 RF11 E-load RWL, Cali Raised LED 3x2 fog-light pods, Lock'r Down EXxtreme console safe with electronic lock, Auto Heat Shield all windows, Raingler rear cargo net, Canvasback rear covers, LFD Off-Road cross bars aluminum, LFD Hybrid bumper, LFD wind fairing, LFD Hi-lift jack mounts, Goat Armor, Blackgate Custom KDSS spacers, Ironman 2.5 awning with quick release mounts, Ironman 12,000 lb synthetic line winch.
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10-27-2019, 10:56 PM
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#15
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mteolus
Make sure you get the one that is OEM Toyota. I got one from NAPA that was not and it leaked through the threads.
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True. The one listed on Amazon is the real deal. That’s where I got mine. It’s also the least expensive that I could find. Like the previous posters said, swap the center perforated tube. (Bend tabs up, twist to remove, put old tube and spring in, twist, bend tabs up). You also need to use the original drain cap. Get a genuine Toyota filter element. It has the two o-rings you need and good instructions on the box. Pay special attention to where the larger o-ring is to be installed, you don’t want leaks. Lube the o-rings well. Torque the housing to 18 lb-ft, then the drain plug to 9 lb-ft. It’s a little strange the first time you do it, the housing snugs up tight all of a sudden. You’ll get the hang of it.
Edit: PS, I thought the sudden snugging of the filter housing was so unusual that I drove around for a day without the skid plate attached so I could periodically check for leaks. Everything was OK.
Last edited by ElectroBoy; 10-27-2019 at 11:05 PM.
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