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Old 10-30-2019, 04:59 PM #1
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Anyone powering their ARB fridge with the stock cigarette lighter

Trying to do process of elimination before I try to find the wall power cord. I took my fridge on my first trip in the 5th gen the other week and could not get it to stay cool constantly. It remained around 58° most of the time but finally cooled one night. I tried pressing the power button to the left of the steering wheel but it didnt seem to make a difference. The stock outlet in the 3rd gen managed this perfectly but I feel like I'm either not getting sufficient power out of the 5th gen one or something is up with the fridge.

Thanks!
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:19 PM #2
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Not too sure what you mean by sufficient power to the fridge. The fridge will draw the required Amps to run if it goes over the fuse rating its gonna pop.

I don't know the 12V fuse rating but are you thinking you are getting less than it? If thats the case I would think its an alternator problem but other electronics should be having issues.

I'm guessing the 4R was running also so voltage should of been up to par.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:24 PM #3
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I had problems with my fridge running for more than 5 minutes on the rear 12v outlet, I switched it to the front 12v in the center console and it worked fine.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:27 PM #4
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LOL

I tried to inflate tires with a chinese pos harbor freight compressor... could barely hold an idle on the REAR cig lighter jack. Moved it to the front and the pitch of the compressor went way up and worked fine. Go figure.
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Old 10-30-2019, 05:46 PM #5
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Usually fridges will shutoff from their low voltage protection due to the voltage drop from the stock outlet, so your problem is different. I'd try running off a different 12v outlet or different vehicle to rule out any issues entirely, but the stock rear 12v outlet usually isn't enough for a fridge (even with its stated rating)
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:10 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillusion View Post
Not too sure what you mean by sufficient power to the fridge. The fridge will draw the required Amps to run if it goes over the fuse rating its gonna pop.

I don't know the 12V fuse rating but are you thinking you are getting less than it? If thats the case I would think its an alternator problem but other electronics should be having issues.

I'm guessing the 4R was running also so voltage should of been up to par.
I'm going to assume right now it isn't an alternator problem since the vehicle is brand new. The display turns on but the green power light will turn orange soon after which I think may mean insufficient power. The weird thing is my 3rd gen stock outlet in the rear never had a single issue.

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I had problems with my fridge running for more than 5 minutes on the rear 12v outlet, I switched it to the front 12v in the center console and it worked fine.
Sounds like the rears are just normally underpowered. Nuts the center console one gives more juice. I'd almost think it's the distance from the battery but again my 3rd gen's tailgate outlet never failed me.

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Usually fridges will shutoff from their low voltage protection due to the voltage drop from the stock outlet, so your problem is different. I'd try running off a different 12v outlet or different vehicle to rule out any issues entirely, but the stock rear 12v outlet usually isn't enough for a fridge (even with its stated rating)
Well the display stays lit but the green power light turns to orange soon after being powered on so I think that's what I'm looking at. What's driving me nuts is I never had a problem with this on the 3rd gen's stock outlet back there.
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:27 PM #7
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I'm going to guess more of a voltage problem than a current issue.

Dunno if you could stick a meter in the back 12V and compare it to the front.

According to ARB's manual orange means it hits the temp and shuts off. Maybe something loose or bad sensor from transferring from your 3rd Gen?
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:29 PM #8
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well both, the current causes the voltage problem
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Old 10-30-2019, 06:50 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MillerPKA View Post
... The weird thing is my 3rd gen stock outlet in the rear never had a single issue.

Sounds like the rears are just normally underpowered. Nuts the center console one gives more juice. I'd almost think it's the distance from the battery but again my 3rd gen's tailgate outlet never failed me.

Well the display stays lit but the green power light turns to orange soon after being powered on so I think that's what I'm looking at. What's driving me nuts is I never had a problem with this on the 3rd gen's stock outlet back there.
The reason your fridge and my compressor has operation problems when plugged into the rear hatch lighter socket is simple. Skinny wires and I^2R voltage drop. The (loaded circuit) volts reaching the appliance are too low.

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Old 10-30-2019, 06:57 PM #10
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Skinny wires and I^2R voltage drop. The (loaded circuit) volts reaching the appliance are too low.
For the nerds

Vload = VSource - VDrop

VDrop = Current x Conductor Resistance
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:00 PM #11
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More math: Fridge problems = 5th gen - 3rd gen. This is the first bummer I've come across so far
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:01 PM #12
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More math: Fridge problems = 5th gen - 3rd gen. This is the first bummer I've come across so far
So that comes out to 2 Gen = Winner
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:04 PM #13
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So that comes out to 2 Gen = Winner
Now I don't like math that's my least favorite gen!
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Old 10-31-2019, 01:42 AM #14
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The rear cigarette lighter is useless for anything more than a phone charger IMO. If you see those skinny wires running the vehicle's length, it wouldn't surprise you why it can't keep the fridge on

I had trouble running the ARB fridge on it. Installed another cigarette outlet right next to it with proper wiring and now runs the fridge perfectly for days
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Old 10-31-2019, 02:12 PM #15
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I guess it's safe to assume the power outlet right next to it should suffice?
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