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Old 11-12-2019, 11:26 AM #16
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".if you dont ask they arent gonna do it."

When I had my 30k Free service done at McGeorge Toyota the service writer told me that they never do it because it isn't needed.

I waved the owner's service manual at him and got it done. For free.

Cheapskates. And they think they know more than the people who built them.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:48 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwilliams0803 View Post
I do u-joints and driveshafts for a living. You need to make sure all 4 seals purge grease or it's not properly lubed.

You can even go to the Dana/Spicer webpage and see a video showing this.

People fear that they are going to "break the seal" and let contaminants in. The seals were designed to purge grease and maintain their integrity.
In that case, let it flow.
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:31 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwilliams0803 View Post
I do u-joints and driveshafts for a living. You need to make sure all 4 seals purge grease or it's not properly lubed.

You can even go to the Dana/Spicer webpage and see a video showing this.

People fear that they are going to "break the seal" and let contaminants in. The seals were designed to purge grease and maintain their integrity.
Thats how I've been doing it on the joints, pump until red comes out then clean off the old stuff with q-tips. On the slip yokes just a few pumps because it usually extend the yoke rather than go past the seal. If I see it move i undo the zerk to let excess out. The best way on the slip yokes is to take the shafts off and clean and re-grease them on the bench.
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Old 11-12-2019, 04:36 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenwilliams0803 View Post
I do u-joints and driveshafts for a living. You need to make sure all 4 seals purge grease or it's not properly lubed.

You can even go to the Dana/Spicer webpage and see a video showing this.

People fear that they are going to "break the seal" and let contaminants in. The seals were designed to purge grease and maintain their integrity.
i was just here to say the same.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:47 PM #20
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My dealer sends out a postcard offering yellow, green and blue levels of routine maintenance. If I wanted a propeller shaft lubricated, I would have to request Blue 30,000 mile interval Service for a Truck, which costs an extra $100. My service writer thinks a 4Runner is a car, which does not get driveshaft lubrication, so I lube it myself when I change oil.

I agree with kenwilliams0803's post in regards to greasing until clean grease appears on all four spider seals (and note exception for the slip yokes).

See also this post started last year: Driveshaft grease per toyota recommended maintenance

Last edited by DougR; 11-12-2019 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:28 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker View Post
No, per the manual. Moly fortified on slip joints, regular GL on spiders. The manual tells you the two types needed. I got mine from Amsoil, but there is a good bit of diversity on the forum of what grease is best.
My manual said you could use a lithium based NLGI 2 on both.

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Old 01-24-2020, 09:00 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agoff71 View Post
My manual said you could use a lithium based NLGI 2 on both.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
Yes, that is correct. Moly-fotified is the first listed for the the slip yokes followed by NLGI2 chassis grease. Somewhere on here someone explains why moly is better on the slips. Something to do with forces. I'm going to edit that post I made since it's not really correct. Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:30 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker View Post
Yes, that is correct. Moly-fotified is the first listed for the the slip yokes followed by NLGI2 chassis grease. Somewhere on here someone explains why moly is better on the slips. Something to do with forces. I'm going to edit that post I made since it's not really correct. Thanks!
My understanding is that moly grease is good for where there is friction from sliding forces and not rolling. The slip joint is metal on metal sliding so moly-fortified grease helps there. If used where there are ball or needle bearings they may slide instead of roll and cause them to get flat spots.

On my previous FJ Cruiser I used NLGI2 on the spider yokes and moly-fortified NLGI2 on the slip joint. I would pump grease into the slip joint until it starts moving. No problems in the 143k miles I had it, and I lubed everything at every 5k mile oil change. I will continue that method with my 4Runner. IMO it doesn't matter so much as to which grease you use on the slip joint (moly-fortified or not) as it does making sure it is lubed regularly. I bought 2 grease guns because they were cheap and have both types of grease on hand.
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Old 01-24-2020, 10:51 AM #24
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Buy a damn tool and do it yourself. Why is that so hard?
When you get to 81 years old, like me, you might want to reconsider why it’s so hard.🙄
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:10 AM #25
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:15 AM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamo View Post
My understanding is that moly grease is good for where there is friction from sliding forces and not rolling. The slip joint is metal on metal sliding so moly-fortified grease helps there. If used where there are ball or needle bearings they may slide instead of roll and cause them to get flat spots.

On my previous FJ Cruiser I used NLGI2 on the spider yokes and moly-fortified NLGI2 on the slip joint. I would pump grease into the slip joint until it starts moving. No problems in the 143k miles I had it, and I lubed everything at every 5k mile oil change. I will continue that method with my 4Runner. IMO it doesn't matter so much as to which grease you use on the slip joint (moly-fortified or not) as it does making sure it is lubed regularly. I bought 2 grease guns because they were cheap and have both types of grease on hand.
2 guns here as well, I use moly on the slips and regular on the spiders.
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:55 AM #27
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My manual said you could use a lithium based NLGI 2 on both.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
just use lithium on both! Moly is less likely to leak out of slip yokes vs Lithium. My guess is its environmentally better to have less grease slung on our roads in the long run which is why its recommended for slip yokes.

However using Moly in your spider joints will cause premature wear because of metallic Moly content. Think of teeny tiny metallic balls gnashing between metal and metal and this is why Lithium is recommended for these parts instead.

Why did grease requirements change mid model? Easy. EPA requirements relaxed a bit with the different administration.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:33 PM #28
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When you get to 81 years old, like me, you might want to reconsider why it’s so hard.🙄
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Old 01-24-2020, 01:58 PM #29
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" I waved the owner's service manual at him and got it done. For free.
My dealer offers drive shaft lubrication only if I choose scheduled maintenance for a TRUCK, which costs an extra $100. Most service writers think of the 4Runner as a CAR and don't realize the driveshaft has grease fittings. I lube it myself.

I use the same grease for slip yokes. After many times of greasing it, there is a potential of over-greasing and locking up the joint, so bench greasing yokes is the best method. I think the next time I grease it, I'll remove the zerk, wrap the shaft in aluminum foil and drive over tall speed bumps and deep dips on a nearby street. I'll post what happens here. This "test" probably won't prove anything. I think there must be an air space in the slip joint, hence the grease I just put in will be pushed out. If I give it a couple extra shots of grease, then some grease has to reach the splines.

Has anybody ever greased the slip joint until grease oozed past the seal? I think that would result in a hydro locked joint.

This video, YouTube shows grease slung from a FJC slip joint. Fast forward to time 3:33. Obviously, it was over-greased, with no apparent damage to the joint or seal.

Last edited by DougR; 01-24-2020 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:18 PM #30
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i was just here to say the same.
Same.
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