So, today has been a weird day. I have never had a CEL, or any other related issues.

1. Started truck, shifted the trans and noticed it a bit stiffer than usual. Temp outside is around 30, perhaps that's it. But it didn't really smooth out after teh heater was on for over 1/2 hour.

2. Drove a bit, turned off, 10 minutes later turned on, drove for 10 minutes. About 20 minutes later, turned on and saw these symptoms:

- CEL is on
- TRAC OFF is on
- Multi terrain is green and blinks

3. Put it in 4LO, tried all the buttons/knobs up top and none work except for the locker; that engages and disengages fine.

4. Back in 4HI, shifting to D does NOT illuminate the "D" on the instrument panel. P, R, N all work.

5. Shifting to S mode, briefly the "S" illuminates and goes off, same for the "4". Shifting down and up in S mode does nothing and, still, no indication on panel.

Otherwise the truck runs fine.

Before, everyone get's on me, I don't yet have an OBD2 reader to check codes. I know, I know...been researching it to death to get the right one but still haven't.

Any help appreciated.

Check your gas cap. If it is loose I have heard similar symptoms.

Otherwise, yea, prolly need a reader.

The answer lies within your post.

Without the code, no one will be able to help you other than letting you know, some CELs trip other lights like you are experiencing. It could very well be a loose gas cap, that caused the CEL which makes the other lights come on.

I have this one and it works great to read and clear codes: Amazon.com: ANCEL AD310 Classic Enhanced Universal OBD II Scanner Car Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool-Black: Automotive

the live data monitoring works, but it's not like a nice gauge or anything.

I have the same one posted above, but this one will work with a cell phone and I believe show live data. You have to remove it though when finished driving or it will drain your battery.

I had the same problem a few weeks ago. Mine through a code P0705. Same symptoms and lights as yours.
It turned out to be a neutral switch assy.


It is located on the passenger side of the transmission and was a bit of a pain to remove, not much room there.

The dealer had one in stock, around $160.00

Thanks for that, I'll check the code as soon as my scanner arrives. I looked up this part number and it shows it for 2016 and up (mine is 2013). What year is your vehicle?

This site shows yours to be correct for 2013 (84540-35060):
2013 Toyota 4Runner Trail Parts like Automatic Transmission Gear Position Sensor

While this site shows the correct part as 84540-60050:
Range Sensor - Toyota (84540-60050) | Toyota Parts

Looks like the first part is newer, available everywhere, while the second part is older and only available in the US, according to this thread:

First issue with my truck, any ideas what's wrong?

Mine is a 2013 TE KDSS with around 40,000 miles.
I don't know what the difference is between those part numbers. The dealer used my vin # to look it up.
Notice that there is a slotted hole for the mounting bolt that allows some adjustment. I never had a delay shifting from neutral to D or R, less than a second, but with the new switch it shifts into gear instantly.
If you have any problems with a delay after installing the new switch, try adjusting it.

All of those lights are just attention getters that something is throwing a code. I have the same lights come on for different reasons. Let us know what the code is and we can help diagnose or steer you in the right direction. Most auto parts will scan the code for free if you don't want to buy a reader. I've survived without one, though would be nice to have.

Use this site to find correct part #'s based on your VIN#

Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

I had the same issue a few years back. New NSS and no more problems.

Confirmed today with reader, code P0705.

I ordered the original part# 84540-60050 from mcgeorgetoyota.com (link above) for $104, including shipping.

The disappearing shift indicator light was sporadic. The more I played with shifting the better it seemed to get and the indicator reappeared - so did "S" mode. Then out of the blue went back to slightly stiff and no indicator.

Thanks to all for the help.

Well, it appears the symptoms have all gone away. Three days ago I got underneath and sprayed the part with Corrosion-X, a high quality film spray that works to deter rust, clean electricals, repel water, etc.. I did not take off the connector, just gave it all a good spray.

Started it up a couple days later and smooth shifting, lights still on. Next day lights are out, no pending codes.

As I had already ordered the part, now I'm wondering if I should keep it for WHEN it's needed or not...

Well, three years almost to the day and the same symptoms surfaced. I have noticed the gear shifts becoming less smooth for about a week. Last night the idiot lights came on. I thought I'd try "fixing" this last night before today's cold set in - glad I did!

As before, got underneath and sprayed the control with some Corrosion-X. Today, the shifter was smooth in 12-degree weather. After two or three starts throughout the day the idiot lights went off and all is well.

So, don't be so quick to replace that part. Corrosion-X does wonders.

Neutral Back-up Safety Switch (NBSS). If it fails, it will prevent operation of the shift motor on the transfer case.

I recently had pretty much the same symptoms on mine. Shifter was harder to move, was finicky actually getting in gear, "D" was not registering on the dash, would only work in S mode. I first noticed that issue when it would not shift to 5th on the highway.

Ended up doing the same, freed the linkage up with PB Blaster, then lubed with spray white lithium grease. Now it shifts like buttah and everything works as it should. I'm going to make spraying that part of my oil change routine.

I have the same issues, about once a year or so I clear the code and keep going. I'll try spraying it down next time I do an oil change when it's on the lift.


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