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Old 12-03-2021, 03:03 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RLTD16 View Post
I cannot tell you how excited I was to stumble across this write up after sifting through far too many non-JBL upgrades. I used your method to wire a new pair of 3.5" Infinity Reference 3032cfx tweeters in the dash and it work perfectly.

Question: On my 2016 4R Limited there was a cap inline on one of the wires, the green wire to be specific. Did you have this cap and did you leave in place when you reused the wiring for your new speaker connection?
It's been a while but I believe I did have those and removed them. That way the full range could go to the 3.5 and the 3.5's built-in cap could limit what goes to the tweeter.
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Old 01-06-2022, 08:22 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaterose View Post
One of my wife's dash speakers went out recently and this gave me an opportunity to upgrade my Tacoma to a Morel 3-way component setup which then freed up the Kickers I had been using to upgrade the stock JBL door & dash speakers. May upgrade the HU, sub, and hatch speakers later, but this is a tremendous improvement for now and solved the blown speaker problem and my justifying an upgrade to 3-way components in the taco problem..
Thank you so much for this! Finally replaced my blown dash speakers after 6 months of putting it off and they sound great! The passenger side was a pita in my car for whatever reason, The speaker was too large for the space but i managed to finally get it after turning the bracket and pushing down real hard.
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JBL Speaker Only Upgrade Install/Write-up-646e6adc-653e-4355-be32-8328be967673-jpg  JBL Speaker Only Upgrade Install/Write-up-c950c683-c665-4f32-9f0d-28695d1c6fd8-jpg 
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Last edited by BIGpharma; 01-06-2022 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 04-07-2022, 03:34 PM #18
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Originally Posted by gaterose View Post
I went with these speakers because it made more sense to me than a component set. Since the crossover is built into the HU, it is only sending higher freqs to the dash location and lower freqs to the door. The stock setup is a 2-3/4 2-way in the dash and a woofer in the door. This is a 3-3/4 2-way in the dash and a woofer (with non-functional tweeters since the HU isn't sending HF to the front door) in the door. Spending extra money just to eliminate the tweeters didn't make sense to me.

A component set with the stock JBL HU would require intricate wiring and signal reintegration or relying on the integral JBL crossover and throwing out the aftermarket crossover and most important part of a component set (also the piece that makes component sets so expensive).

If we ever swap the HU, I'll prob go with a 3-way component setup like I have in the Taco.
I purchase a set of 6x9 convertible component speakers and a set of 3.5” 2-way for the dash. Through this thread I’ve realized that the front doors get low pass signal only and dash gets high pass signal only.

Wondering if I could skip the crossover that came with the 6x9 and piggyback that door tweeter off the signal going to the dash?
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Old 04-26-2022, 08:31 AM #19
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Update on my 2017 Limited w/ JBL:

Front doors: Memphis Audio MS69 convertible component speakers. Removed the tweeters completely and didn’t not use the provided crossover. Wired driver directly to the factory wiring. I used the Amazon version of dynamat to soundproof the doors (worked great and was super easy). I also used the Metra speaker brackets and road kill foam rings to direct the sound out. I cut the factory wiring harness and soldered the connections then used heat shrink.

Rear doors: Memphis Audio MS62 convertible component speakers with same soundproofing/bracket brands as front speakers. Tweeters installed in the center mount. The crossover for these speakers were perfect as they have their own mounting bracket on the back of the speaker. Cut the factory harness and soldered speaker connections directly with heat shrink.

Dash: This is where things got interesting. At first, I built a bracket to mount the tweeters provided with the 6x9 front door speakers. I unclipped the factory harness and unbolted the factory speaker (2 wires that turn into 4. 2 of the 4 were wired to the “mid” driver on the little factory 2-way dash speaker and the other had a capacitor for low-pass function and went to the “tweeter” portion.) I used heatshrink to insulate the 2 wires for the “mid” driver and wired the 2 wires with the capacitor to the new tweeter provided with the 6x9 and reinstalled.

EDITED DASH: after listening to the system at this point I noticed that the tweeters in the dash were not powerful enough to overcome the awkward direction they were pointed so the sound profile was too far back toward the rear of the car. Also, I was missing out significantly on the mid-range compared to the stock 2-way dash speakers. The next day I picked up a set of Kicker KS 3.5” speakers. Removed the heatshrink on the “mid-range” wires coming out of the harness and reconnected those to the new speakers, then heat shrank the other 2 wires that had the capacitor since the new speakers had capacitor built-in for the tweeter, and therefore no low-pass filter was necessary. This was a MASSIVE improvement over the Memphis tweeter and stock dash speaker. The mounts for the factory speakers were cut to retrofit the bigger 3.5” speaker as shown earlier in this thread. The driver side went in super smooth, however the passenger side was a little more difficult fit due to AC vent and less depth available. The back of the factory speaker screens were trimmed with a oscillating dremel tool.

Rear hatch door: removed these speakers completely for the time being (until budget allows for another set of MS62).

Subwoofer: installed a Memphis audio MB series 8” subwoofer in the factory box and mounted a cheap skar audio 350watt RMS amp under the passenger seat to power it. This was the hardest part of the install with having to remove 3rd row seats and the entire rear panel. Lots of great videos on this process on YouTube.

I’ve also got a T-10 Chinese android head unit (plug and play) from cartrim that is AMAZING. There was definitely some fiddling and research to get the CarPlay and other features set up (CTH 4Runner Android Head Unit Owners group on FB was a HUGE HELP).
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Old 04-26-2022, 08:34 AM #20
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The sound is night and day compared to factory. Crystal clear and LOUD. I did notice the volume needing to be higher compared to factory since I went from 2ohm speakers to 4ohm with the factory amp, but it’s still plenty loud and will make your ears ring if you want it to. Very happy with the results. Everything including the head unit I’m about $1200-1400 in. Headunit was done first, subwoofer/amp was done second and the door speakers were done in a 3rd round of upgrades
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Old 04-26-2022, 08:35 AM #21
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And to answer my own original question, the new 3.5” dash speakers are plenty bright on the high frequency tunes. There is absolutely no need to also install tweeters with the 6x9s in the front doors
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:09 AM #22
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Is there an actual "drop in" subwoofer that we can use to replace and improve on the factory JBL subwoofer WITHOUT adding an additional sub amplifier?

I have found a couple of DVC 2-Ohm subs on Crutchfield, but I don't know if just putting one of those in the factory enclosure would increase bass output or not.

The only one that seems to be efficient enough and able to dig down into the 30hz range is: Audiofrog GS8ND2 GS Series 8" subwoofer/mid-bass speaker with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield

But I have never heard of this brand before, or know if it is a credible option...

The other 3 options I found were:
1. Kicker Kicker 48CWRT82 CompRT Series shallow-mount 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield
2. Rockford Fosgate Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 Punch Stage 3 shallow 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield
3. Pioneer Pioneer TS-A2000LD2 Shallow-mount 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield

Do you think any of these would be good options for a drop-in replacement to get more bass?
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