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Old 12-29-2019, 03:34 PM #1
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JBL Speaker Only Upgrade Install/Write-up

One of my wife's dash speakers went out recently and this gave me an opportunity to upgrade my Tacoma to a Morel 3-way component setup which then freed up the Kickers I had been using to upgrade the stock JBL door & dash speakers. May upgrade the HU, sub, and hatch speakers later, but this is a tremendous improvement for now and solved the blown speaker problem and my justifying an upgrade to 3-way components in the taco problem.

In doing this I found that the write-ups had a lot of missing photos and/or blurred photos lost in the Great Photobucket Purge so thought I'd post a new one. It was also difficult finding the correct info about the wiring for the JBL dash speakers since my 2014 wiring colors did not match what I saw in other posts.

Here's what I used -
Kicker DS 2 Way 3-1/2 (DSC350) - Dash
Kicker CS 3-way 6x9 (43CSC6934) - Front Door
Kicker CS 2-Way 6-3/4 (43CSC674) - Rear Door



I already had mounting and wiring adapters for the doors from my Tacoma so I just needed to figure out something for the dash.

I used the Trail4R write up for removing the dash speakers. I was surprised that the JBL speakers actually looked pretty hefty, with separate wiring for the tweeter and woofer. It also looks different from all the other photos that I came across in my previous research.



I finally found a post from @bennecc that told me how to figure out how to wire the tweeters (peel back the shrink wrap and see what goes where), even though my colors don't seem to match his. I combined the yellow + green for my positive and the black + purple wires and for negative then crimped on proper connectors.



You can see that I also trimmed the speaker grille back since the speaker is now larger than cone/director and I also trimmed the stock mounting bracket to create a custom mount.

Driver -


Driver installed -


Passenger -


Passenger installed -



Used the videos from TacoTunes for the door panels with one caveat pointed out by @rigtec

I wish I'd seen this before I did the front doors. Most door panels are removed by pulling all the clips on the lower portion out then lifting up to raise the panel out of the door channel. The 5th gen 4R is not designed this way, although it can be done with patience and care. Instead what you should do is pull the top portion away the same as the bottom portion, i.e. toward your body not upward.

You can see in these photos the top piece has a second set of clips and it's much easier to separate the two pieces.





Front door panels/speakers -
TacoTunes video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AB4l5y6Sa8

Installed -


Rear door panels/speakers -
TacoTunes video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xfjJBh_KzM

Installed -
[/url]

I was concerned about the JBL system being 2Ω and the speakers being 4Ω, but they are very clear and very loud. The only noise I hear now is when I play older compressed MP3s, tracks with low compression are crystal clear. I was also very surprised by the increase in bass response.
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Last edited by gaterose; 12-29-2019 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 12-29-2019, 05:42 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaterose View Post

One of my wife's dash speakers went out recently and this gave me an opportunity to upgrade my Tacoma to a Morel 3-way component setup which then freed up the Kickers I had been using to upgrade the stock JBL door & dash speakers. May upgrade the HU, sub, and hatch speakers later, but this is a tremendous improvement for now and solved the blown speaker problem and my justifying an upgrade to 3-way components in the taco problem.

In doing this I found that the write-ups had a lot of missing photos and/or blurred photos lost in the Great Photobucket Purge so thought I'd post a new one. It was also difficult finding the correct info about the wiring for the JBL dash speakers since my 2014 wiring colors did not match what I saw in other posts.

Here's what I used -
Kicker DS 2 Way 3-1/2 (DSC350) - Dash
Kicker CS 3-way 6x9 (43CSC6934) - Front Door
Kicker CS 2-Way 6-3/4 (43CSC674) - Rear Door



I already had mounting and wiring adapters for the doors from my Tacoma so I just needed to figure out something for the dash.

I used the Trail4R write up for removing the dash speakers. I was surprised that the JBL speakers actually looked pretty hefty, with separate wiring for the tweeter and woofer. It also looks different from all the other photos that I came across in my previous research.



I finally found a post from @bennecc that told me how to figure out how to wire the tweeters (peel back the shrink wrap and see what goes where), even though my colors don't seem to match his. I combined the yellow + green for my positive and the black + purple wires and for negative then crimped on proper connectors.



You can see that I also trimmed the speaker grille back since the speaker is now larger than cone/director and I also trimmed the stock mounting bracket to create a custom mount.

Driver -


Driver installed -


Passenger -


Passenger installed -



Used the videos from TacoTunes for the door panels with one caveat pointed out by @rigtec

I wish I'd seen this before I did the front doors. Most door panels are removed by pulling all the clips on the lower portion out then lifting up to raise the panel out of the door channel. The 5th gen 4R is not designed this way, although it can be done with patience and care. Instead what you should do is pull the top portion away the same as the bottom portion, i.e. toward your body not upward.

You can see in these photos the top piece has a second set of clips and it's much easier to separate the two pieces.





Front door panels/speakers -
TacoTunes video - YouTube

Installed -


Rear door panels/speakers -
TacoTunes video - YouTube

Installed -
[/url]

I was concerned about the JBL system being 2Ω and the speakers being 4Ω, but they are very clear and very loud. The only noise I hear now is when I play older compressed MP3s, tracks with low compression are crystal clear. I was also very surprised by the increase in bass response.
"GREAT JOB gaterose!!!"

...One of the best I've seen so far! I'm not sure if you're planning to add a Sub, but if so, I did a tutorial a few years back; NOT on which is the best one to install, but "What they do, how they work, the difference between a regular bass speaker/transducer, and an ACTUAL "Low frequency wavefront reproducer" cuz they're very different, and their jobs are NOT comparable!

I'm not trying to convince anyone to do what I did... but just to dispell ALL of the myths, wives-tales, marketing schemes, folklore, and the like! Here's one of my threads on the subject:

...got bass?

You've done an EXCELLENT job gatorose; I have a real bad habit of forgeting to take photos when I'm working on my truck, then when done, I'll say: "Opps" ...I should've snapped a few shots before I started the dissasembly... lol! Thanks for your post w/photos!'Best to you',

rig, Cheers!
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Last edited by rigtec; 01-01-2020 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:34 PM #3
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Thank you for this! I just purchased a 16 Limited and hate the sound of the JBL system. It is missing so much detail. I was going to replace my dash speakers but when I pulled them out, I wasnt sure what to do with the wiring. I couldnt find much on replacing the JBL speakers. I may give this a go!
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Old 12-30-2019, 01:52 AM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaterose View Post

Here's what I used -
Kicker DS 2 Way 3-1/2 (DSC350) - Dash
Kicker CS 3-way 6x9 (43CSC6934) - Front Door
Kicker CS 2-Way 6-3/4 (43CSC674) - Rear Door
What $$$ did this run you?

PS. the strike through txt is confusing as hell, it's completely out of context for me. Why not just delete it if you are cutting and pasting stuff from a taco post?
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Old 12-30-2019, 10:32 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nglayton View Post
What $$$ did this run you?

PS. the strike through txt is confusing as hell, it's completely out of context for me. Why not just delete it if you are cutting and pasting stuff from a taco post?
It was around $150 all in, hard to say since the door speakers came out of my Tacoma (as it says in the strike through) and were purchased 2 years ago.

ps. Sorry for the confusion but it’s definitely in the same context as the rest of the post. Strike through = “maybe I shouldn’t say this.” It’s a joke. She got these specific speakers because I wanted even better speakers in my Tacoma but already had the Kickers.
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Last edited by gaterose; 12-30-2019 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 11:51 AM #6
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The 3.5" in the dash and the coaxial in the doors is an interesting choice, though since you already had those speakers I understand the choice.

Normally you wouldn't want the tweeters down by your feet for the front sound-stage in a car. Most people go with 3.5" in the dash because they're just replacing those speakers, but if replacing the door speakers as well then the component / tweeter setup would be better.

Pictures of taking the door apart are awesome; I keep reading people saying how annoying it is but the detail pics help understand why it's that way.
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Old 12-30-2019, 03:36 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llDemonll View Post
The 3.5" in the dash and the coaxial in the doors is an interesting choice, though since you already had those speakers I understand the choice.

Normally you wouldn't want the tweeters down by your feet for the front sound-stage in a car. Most people go with 3.5" in the dash because they're just replacing those speakers, but if replacing the door speakers as well then the component / tweeter setup would be better.
I went with these speakers because it made more sense to me than a component set. Since the crossover is built into the HU, it is only sending higher freqs to the dash location and lower freqs to the door. The stock setup is a 2-3/4 2-way in the dash and a woofer in the door. This is a 3-3/4 2-way in the dash and a woofer (with non-functional tweeters since the HU isn't sending HF to the front door) in the door. Spending extra money just to eliminate the tweeters didn't make sense to me.

A component set with the stock JBL HU would require intricate wiring and signal reintegration or relying on the integral JBL crossover and throwing out the aftermarket crossover and most important part of a component set (also the piece that makes component sets so expensive).

If we ever swap the HU, I'll prob go with a 3-way component setup like I have in the Taco.
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Old 08-04-2020, 08:24 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaterose View Post
I was concerned about the JBL system being 2Ω and the speakers being 4Ω, but they are very clear and very loud. The only noise I hear now is when I play older compressed MP3s, tracks with low compression are crystal clear. I was also very surprised by the increase in bass response.
@gaterose Nice write-up - I wish I would have read that before digging into replacing the front doors and dash speakers on my 15 Limited with JBL. It would have made it a lot easier, but eventually I figured it out. These well documented tutorials are few and far between for the 5th gens with JBL.

I was curious if you noticed difference with your sub remaining at 2ohm while all your speakers switched to 4ohm? I switched out the dash with the JL Audio C2-350x that you see here in the forum alot, and then the front doors with JL Audio C2-690tx 3-ways, but after a few days I had to take them out and return them. I have the stock HU and ended up fading the signal 3/4 to the front, turning the volume up by 10 (from normal), and then the bass at minus 3. Still, as soon as a hip hop song came on the Spotify list, the stock sub and rear speakers would be booming too much for their own good and ruin the clarity that I was getting from the new front speakers. I imagine part of this problem is solved by replacing the rear door speakers with 4ohm also, but I was still curious if you had to compensate with the volume, fade, or bass in order to keep the 4ohm/2ohm working together well?

I know it's been a few months since you originally posted this - have you made any upgrades since then?
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:58 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Person View Post
@gaterose Nice write-up - I wish I would have read that before digging into replacing the front doors and dash speakers on my 15 Limited with JBL. It would have made it a lot easier, but eventually I figured it out. These well documented tutorials are few and far between for the 5th gens with JBL.

I was curious if you noticed difference with your sub remaining at 2ohm while all your speakers switched to 4ohm? ... I was still curious if you had to compensate with the volume, fade, or bass in order to keep the 4ohm/2ohm working together well?

I know it's been a few months since you originally posted this - have you made any upgrades since then?
Thanks! I agree, I had a very hard time finding a good writeup for the JBL system and it looked like my speakers were not the same as some of the threads.

I think that replacing the rear at the same time may have helped me a lot over you, since I'm not having noise issues with the rear. We hadn't noticed anything different with the sub either, the bass seems heavier since we now have better woofers in the doors but nothing distorts or sounds like it's being pushed too hard.

I honestly don't remember making any changes to the settings. I remember being afraid the 2/4ohm thing could be a problem but I was happy with the sound on the first drive. No updates to the audio since this post.
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Old 08-05-2020, 12:17 PM #10
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This write up only refers to the 4R's with the JBL system? Is it the same for non-JBL equipped 4R's?

2011 SR5, no nav no JBL
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Old 08-05-2020, 12:20 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNicestGuy24 View Post
This write up only refers to the 4R's with the JBL system? Is it the same for non-JBL equipped 4R's?

2011 SR5, no nav no JBL
The dash speaker wiring would be the biggest difference between JBL and non-JBL. There are a ton of other good write-ups for non-JBL 4runners if you google or search the forum though.

I swapped all of these speakers from my non-JBL Tacoma and the only real difference was the dash wiring.
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Old 08-05-2020, 12:38 PM #12
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Great, thanks!
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Old 09-10-2021, 10:08 AM #13
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Im so confused i have a 2019 TRD PRO 4RUNNER WITH THE JBL STEREO, and I read a few places it says I need capacitors for the tweeters is there a reason you didn't use that?


Thank you in advance for your help...




Quote:
Originally Posted by gaterose View Post
One of my wife's dash speakers went out recently and this gave me an opportunity to upgrade my Tacoma to a Morel 3-way component setup which then freed up the Kickers I had been using to upgrade the stock JBL door & dash speakers. May upgrade the HU, sub, and hatch speakers later, but this is a tremendous improvement for now and solved the blown speaker problem and my justifying an upgrade to 3-way components in the taco problem.

In doing this I found that the write-ups had a lot of missing photos and/or blurred photos lost in the Great Photobucket Purge so thought I'd post a new one. It was also difficult finding the correct info about the wiring for the JBL dash speakers since my 2014 wiring colors did not match what I saw in other posts.

Here's what I used -
Kicker DS 2 Way 3-1/2 (DSC350) - Dash
Kicker CS 3-way 6x9 (43CSC6934) - Front Door
Kicker CS 2-Way 6-3/4 (43CSC674) - Rear Door



I already had mounting and wiring adapters for the doors from my Tacoma so I just needed to figure out something for the dash.

I used the Trail4R write up for removing the dash speakers. I was surprised that the JBL speakers actually looked pretty hefty, with separate wiring for the tweeter and woofer. It also looks different from all the other photos that I came across in my previous research.



I finally found a post from @bennecc that told me how to figure out how to wire the tweeters (peel back the shrink wrap and see what goes where), even though my colors don't seem to match his. I combined the yellow + green for my positive and the black + purple wires and for negative then crimped on proper connectors.



You can see that I also trimmed the speaker grille back since the speaker is now larger than cone/director and I also trimmed the stock mounting bracket to create a custom mount.

Driver -


Driver installed -


Passenger -


Passenger installed -



Used the videos from TacoTunes for the door panels with one caveat pointed out by @rigtec

I wish I'd seen this before I did the front doors. Most door panels are removed by pulling all the clips on the lower portion out then lifting up to raise the panel out of the door channel. The 5th gen 4R is not designed this way, although it can be done with patience and care. Instead what you should do is pull the top portion away the same as the bottom portion, i.e. toward your body not upward.

You can see in these photos the top piece has a second set of clips and it's much easier to separate the two pieces.





Front door panels/speakers -
TacoTunes video - Toyota 4Runner How to remove front door panels - YouTube

Installed -


Rear door panels/speakers -
TacoTunes video - Toyota 4Runner How to remove rear door panels - YouTube

Installed -
[/url]

I was concerned about the JBL system being 2Ω and the speakers being 4Ω, but they are very clear and very loud. The only noise I hear now is when I play older compressed MP3s, tracks with low compression are crystal clear. I was also very surprised by the increase in bass response.
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Old 09-10-2021, 10:27 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2019TRDPRO View Post
Im so confused i have a 2019 TRD PRO 4RUNNER WITH THE JBL STEREO, and I read a few places it says I need capacitors for the tweeters is there a reason you didn't use that?


Thank you in advance for your help...
I had not read that, I read that there was already a capacitor in there for the JBL system since it had 3.5s in that so I didn't think it was necessary. It sounds GREAT so
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Old 12-03-2021, 02:59 PM #15
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I cannot tell you how excited I was to stumble across this write up after sifting through far too many non-JBL upgrades. I used your method to wire a new pair of 3.5" Infinity Reference 3032cfx tweeters in the dash and it work perfectly.

Question: On my 2016 4R Limited there was a cap inline on one of the wires, the green wire to be specific. Did you have this cap and did you leave in place when you reused the wiring for your new speaker connection?
Attached Images
JBL Speaker Only Upgrade Install/Write-up-74529413-8b15-4742-8a1f-148197fe6662-jpg 

Last edited by 4RLTD16; 12-03-2021 at 03:04 PM.
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