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Old 12-06-2020, 11:03 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Runner View Post
Hello, rigtec, I was hoping that you would be kind enough to send me all 5th gen electrical schematics. No worries if itís too much a hassle.
Hi The_Runner!

I don't think you wanna go through ALL of the 5'th Gen wiring diagrams cuz there are (easily), more than 1.000 pages in my "Printed" library...! I can get you the driver-door light scheme, but it'll have to be from photo-bucket (with the water-mark stain on it); and no telling what that stain would be covering up!

I'll be glad to look into it! Someone mentioned to me that they're using Whats-app to create a url for transferring photos/videos; maybe this is a perfect time for me to look into that!

If what-app works out properly, I'll be glad to load the driver-door prints to "Whats-app" and see if their urls can be loaded to this page or in a PM for you to use... I'll look into that!

rig, cheers!
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Old 12-08-2020, 06:50 AM #32
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Originally Posted by The_Runner View Post
Hello, rigtec, I was hoping that you would be kind enough to send me all 5th gen electrical schematics. No worries if itís too much a hassle.
Hi The_Runner,

I've been going through the Courtesy Lamp Circuit regarding the D/S Door Courtesy light circuit and here's what I think would help you to isolate your problem! The "Left front door courtesy Lamp circuit" Begins & ends at the MB-ECU terminals FLCY(+) & FLCY(-)!

So to be sure what the trouble is, I would (using a test light or 12V Multi-meter), GND the alligator clip/NEG-side of your tester, and touch the copper terminal attached to the "PINK" wire and see if it's HOT; it should be whenever the driver-side door is opened!

Then, I'd check the terminal attached to the RED wire (GND-TERM) by feeding the alligator clip 12V (from another power source), and connecting the test lead to that copper terminal; you 'SHOULD' have 12V at that termination!

If you don't have 12V (GND) at the RED wire, then check the door courtesy light switch; this is where your MB-ECU courtesy signaling device is located. You could remove the door switch and use an Ohm meter or continuity tester to confirm, or condemn the door switch BEFORE Condemning the MB-ECU!

Obviously I do have the wiring diagram for the door lamps; my trouble is getting a url to share them as photos/jpeg. If you need to see them for yourself, send me a PM with your email address and I can email the two pgs to you!

And if you need to replace the MB-ECU Compu net, I do have a Brand New one, from Toyota, still in the original box... just let me know how you make out AFTER testing the door lamp courtesy circuit and we can take it from there! 'Best to you'

rig
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Old 07-30-2021, 07:12 AM #33
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Can someone confirm this for me please.

I want to replace the courtesy door lights with LED bulbs from Diode Dynamics. But after reading a few on these posts I'm all worried now. Just would like some confirmation on the guys that have done this before and if my method here will be a safe method.

1. disconnect negative terminal of battery

2. remove courtesy light housing from door panel for full access

3. remove incandescent bulb and replace with LED bulb

4. install courtesy light housing back in to door panel

5. connect negative terminal of battery


Is this method OK? I don't have a multimeter nor the motivation to buy one and read/learn how to understand it just to pop some new bulbs in right now. Too much other stuff going on currently. Also don't have any idea or motivation to figure how to hook one of these bulbs up to a 9v battery to test either. I'm not normally this consumed with other things but here we are. I'm just looking for some quick intel before buying these this morning.

Do these bulbs need to be installed a certain way regarding polarity? If I install them backwards will anything bad happen or will the light just not work? And if thats the case I would just disconnect the negative battery terminal, repeat the earlier procedure and flip the bulb 180 degrees?

thanks for reading my rambling post.
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Old 07-30-2021, 04:39 PM #34
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Hi - I did this recently with the same concerns (I'm a real worrier) and have a few pieces of advice.

1) Skip DD. Use VLEDS. The quality is better and the polarity doesn't matter like they do on DD. They also have a better choice of color temperature. Finally, you can get them on Amazon with free shipping and free returns if you decide to try another color.

2) Do the 9V battery. It's easy. Step 1 buy a 9V battery. Step 2 put one end of the VLEDS bulb on the negative terminal, tilt it sideways, and you will hit another spot on the bulb and it lights up. Easiest part of any of this.

3) Read this. Makes the door (hassle) easier.

This may start an "internet war" but I didn't remove the negative terminal. If the bulb is going to cause problems, it will happen as soon as electricity is applied, so it was far more important IMO to test the bulb before inserting.

Good luck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sconnie View Post
Can someone confirm this for me please.

I want to replace the courtesy door lights with LED bulbs from Diode Dynamics. But after reading a few on these posts I'm all worried now. Just would like some confirmation on the guys that have done this before and if my method here will be a safe method.

1. disconnect negative terminal of battery

2. remove courtesy light housing from door panel for full access

3. remove incandescent bulb and replace with LED bulb

4. install courtesy light housing back in to door panel

5. connect negative terminal of battery


Is this method OK? I don't have a multimeter nor the motivation to buy one and read/learn how to understand it just to pop some new bulbs in right now. Too much other stuff going on currently. Also don't have any idea or motivation to figure how to hook one of these bulbs up to a 9v battery to test either. I'm not normally this consumed with other things but here we are. I'm just looking for some quick intel before buying these this morning.

Do these bulbs need to be installed a certain way regarding polarity? If I install them backwards will anything bad happen or will the light just not work? And if thats the case I would just disconnect the negative battery terminal, repeat the earlier procedure and flip the bulb 180 degrees?

thanks for reading my rambling post.
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Old 07-30-2021, 06:15 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
Hi - I did this recently with the same concerns (I'm a real worrier) and have a few pieces of advice.

1) Skip DD. Use VLEDS. The quality is better and the polarity doesn't matter like they do on DD. They also have a better choice of color temperature. Finally, you can get them on Amazon with free shipping and free returns if you decide to try another color.

2) Do the 9V battery. It's easy. Step 1 buy a 9V battery. Step 2 put one end of the VLEDS bulb on the negative terminal, tilt it sideways, and you will hit another spot on the bulb and it lights up. Easiest part of any of this.

3) Read this. Makes the door (hassle) easier.

This may start an "internet war" but I didn't remove the negative terminal. If the bulb is going to cause problems, it will happen as soon as electricity is applied, so it was far more important IMO to test the bulb before inserting.

Good luck.
Yeah, good advice. Please donít skip the LED test. A shorted LED right out of the package is a main cause of this type of ECU failure that have been reported in forums.

By unplugging the white power connector on the back of the courtesy light you effectively remove power from it and really donít need to remove the battery negative terminal while replacing this bulb.
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