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Old 12-06-2020, 11:03 PM #31
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Originally Posted by The_Runner View Post
Hello, rigtec, I was hoping that you would be kind enough to send me all 5th gen electrical schematics. No worries if itís too much a hassle.
Hi The_Runner!

I don't think you wanna go through ALL of the 5'th Gen wiring diagrams cuz there are (easily), more than 1.000 pages in my "Printed" library...! I can get you the driver-door light scheme, but it'll have to be from photo-bucket (with the water-mark stain on it); and no telling what that stain would be covering up!

I'll be glad to look into it! Someone mentioned to me that they're using Whats-app to create a url for transferring photos/videos; maybe this is a perfect time for me to look into that!

If what-app works out properly, I'll be glad to load the driver-door prints to "Whats-app" and see if their urls can be loaded to this page or in a PM for you to use... I'll look into that!

rig, cheers!
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Old 12-08-2020, 06:50 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Runner View Post
Hello, rigtec, I was hoping that you would be kind enough to send me all 5th gen electrical schematics. No worries if itís too much a hassle.
Hi The_Runner,

I've been going through the Courtesy Lamp Circuit regarding the D/S Door Courtesy light circuit and here's what I think would help you to isolate your problem! The "Left front door courtesy Lamp circuit" Begins & ends at the MB-ECU terminals FLCY(+) & FLCY(-)!

So to be sure what the trouble is, I would (using a test light or 12V Multi-meter), GND the alligator clip/NEG-side of your tester, and touch the copper terminal attached to the "PINK" wire and see if it's HOT; it should be whenever the driver-side door is opened!

Then, I'd check the terminal attached to the RED wire (GND-TERM) by feeding the alligator clip 12V (from another power source), and connecting the test lead to that copper terminal; you 'SHOULD' have 12V at that termination!

If you don't have 12V (GND) at the RED wire, then check the door courtesy light switch; this is where your MB-ECU courtesy signaling device is located. You could remove the door switch and use an Ohm meter or continuity tester to confirm, or condemn the door switch BEFORE Condemning the MB-ECU!

Obviously I do have the wiring diagram for the door lamps; my trouble is getting a url to share them as photos/jpeg. If you need to see them for yourself, send me a PM with your email address and I can email the two pgs to you!

And if you need to replace the MB-ECU Compu net, I do have a Brand New one, from Toyota, still in the original box... just let me know how you make out AFTER testing the door lamp courtesy circuit and we can take it from there! 'Best to you'

rig
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