01-03-2020, 11:27 AM
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#1
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Electrical components on passenger side?
Has anyone mounted their electrical components on the passenger side of the engine bay? I already have a compressor mounted on the driver side and don't have any plans of a second battery. Trying to see if there is some sort of mounting bracket I could use or if I need to get one made up myself. There is plenty of space that I am hoping to use. Edit: I am talking about mounting fuse boxes, etc in this location
Thanks
Last edited by Ykket; 01-03-2020 at 01:10 PM.
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01-03-2020, 12:38 PM
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#2
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Lots of people do. Compressor, battery, etc.
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01-03-2020, 01:10 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llDemonll
Lots of people do. Compressor, battery, etc.
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I probably should have given more info. I meant components such as fuse blocks, etc.
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01-03-2020, 01:29 PM
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#4
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i think the only reason most people don't put fuse blocks and stuff there is because there is a really convenient spot for them on the drivers side, which also happens to be closer to the battery
you could just as easily mount them on the passenger side though, nothing wrong with it
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01-03-2020, 02:09 PM
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#5
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If you're not running a second battery then just move the air compressor to the passenger side and mount your fuse block/relay/switch to the driver side. You want all your fuses and electricals as close to the battery as you can. The longer your run a wire without a fuse the greater the chance you'll get a short and fry something.
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01-03-2020, 02:56 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sn_85
If you're not running a second battery then just move the air compressor to the passenger side and mount your fuse block/relay/switch to the driver side. You want all your fuses and electricals as close to the battery as you can. The longer your run a wire without a fuse the greater the chance you'll get a short and fry something.
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Thanks, yeah that makes sense. I finally got my compressor mounted this year (well last year) and was hoping not to move it so soon. Looks like that is the best option though. Maybe I can reuse my Slee bracket for some electrical stuff and only need to get a new bracket for passenger side.
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01-03-2020, 03:04 PM
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#7
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As stated, a lot of people mount secondary batteries and compressors on the passenger side. Most people mount their fuse blocks near the stock battery location to keep the wiring short. I'd suggest looking into a PowerTray
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01-03-2020, 06:46 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhguth
i think the only reason most people don't put fuse blocks and stuff there is because there is a really convenient spot for them on the drivers side, which also happens to be closer to the battery
you could just as easily mount them on the passenger side though, nothing wrong with it
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Battery is on that side, as well as the firewall access plug to run wires into the cabin, pops out right above brake pedals, and can also tap into the fuse box located under there.
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01-03-2020, 08:50 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ykket
Has anyone mounted their electrical components on the passenger side of the engine bay? I already have a compressor mounted on the driver side and don't have any plans of a second battery. Trying to see if there is some sort of mounting bracket I could use or if I need to get one made up myself. There is plenty of space that I am hoping to use. Edit: I am talking about mounting fuse boxes, etc in this location
Thanks
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This is what I did . But I have a dual battery system. the only difference is that your battery is farther from the panel thus increasing the need for larger gage wire.
May I suggest you start with a Bussman 15303-2-2-4 relay panel. Feed this with a #6 awg or larger Marine rated cable to allow for volatge drop about fifteen feet (Measure it first). Fused at the battery with a Blue sea MRBF Terminal fused at 80 amps.( You can order all this online from Defender Marine in CT).
You can get some 16 gage sheet metal for mounting the bussman panel. Bend the sheet metal to 90 degrees Tracy out the bussman panel then cut out the bottom of the sheet metal to allow the branch circuit wire to flows out the bottom of the panel (someone makes a mount for this panel that would work, I saw it but don't know where)
Use the existing threaded holes in the fender to mount it. You will need some tools to do this. A Drill motor ,Jig saw, Big Hammer to bend the sheet metal and a vice. Also don't forget the split tube and tye wraps.
You you will have 5 relay circuits and 5 non relay circuits to do what ever you need in the future. It may sound complicated but with all the correct parts you will have plenty of room to expand later.
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01-03-2020, 11:14 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pDubs
Battery is on that side, as well as the firewall access plug to run wires into the cabin, pops out right above brake pedals, and can also tap into the fuse box located under there.
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Firewall access is also on the passenger side
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01-03-2020, 11:16 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sn_85
If you're not running a second battery then just move the air compressor to the passenger side and mount your fuse block/relay/switch to the driver side. You want all your fuses and electricals as close to the battery as you can. The longer your run a wire without a fuse the greater the chance you'll get a short and fry something.
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The wire to the fuse block should be fused, and even at the longer distance it's still short enough that wire gauge isnt much of an issue (even if you have to bump up a gauge it's short enough run that it wont cost much more)
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01-04-2020, 08:46 AM
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#12
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: LI, NY
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Real Name: Russ
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
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Age: 37
Posts: 67
Real Name: Russ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rack
This is what I did . But I have a dual battery system. the only difference is that your battery is farther from the panel thus increasing the need for larger gage wire.
May I suggest you start with a Bussman 15303-2-2-4 relay panel. Feed this with a #6 awg or larger Marine rated cable to allow for volatge drop about fifteen feet (Measure it first). Fused at the battery with a Blue sea MRBF Terminal fused at 80 amps.( You can order all this online from Defender Marine in CT).
You can get some 16 gage sheet metal for mounting the bussman panel. Bend the sheet metal to 90 degrees Tracy out the bussman panel then cut out the bottom of the sheet metal to allow the branch circuit wire to flows out the bottom of the panel (someone makes a mount for this panel that would work, I saw it but don't know where)
Use the existing threaded holes in the fender to mount it. You will need some tools to do this. A Drill motor ,Jig saw, Big Hammer to bend the sheet metal and a vice. Also don't forget the split tube and tye wraps.
You you will have 5 relay circuits and 5 non relay circuits to do what ever you need in the future. It may sound complicated but with all the correct parts you will have plenty of room to expand later.
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This is awesome, thank you. Is that picture from your setup? Would the sheet metal need some sort of vertical support?
I had started looking at the Bussmann and pricing out everything I would need. Then I saw this on eBay, Universal Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Panel Cooper Bussmann ATV UTV RV Boat 4X4 | eBay do you think this would work? Price wise, it's just a little more than all the components I had priced out. I already have some 4awg wire that I can probably use from the battery, and a 125amp fuse and 100amp breaker laying around too.
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01-04-2020, 11:40 AM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ykket
This is awesome, thank you. Is that picture from your setup? Would the sheet metal need some sort of vertical support?
I had started looking at the Bussmann and pricing out everything I would need. Then I saw this on eBay, Universal Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Panel Cooper Bussmann ATV UTV RV Boat 4X4 | eBay do you think this would work? Price wise, it's just a little more than all the components I had priced out. I already have some 4awg wire that I can probably use from the battery, and a 125amp fuse and 100amp breaker laying around too.
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The Bussman panel is similar to what I used and It worked well. The wires that come with it are not long enough to really go anywhere so you will have to add on to them.The Bussman relay panel is only rated for 80 amps so size your fuse and wire accordingly.
The other blue sea fuse block and fuse are spendy but they attach to the battery connector so there is no drilling plus it makes for a cleaner installation.
The bracket I made is 16 gage sheet metal its strong enough to support the relay panel so no extra support is needed. Yes that is my photo. I don't have a build page but you can see what I have done by going into my album on page #2 you can see how I did this Mod.
I don't profess to be an expert on my builds its more of a Hobby.
Take your time do it right and have fun.
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Last edited by Rack; 01-04-2020 at 11:54 AM.
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01-04-2020, 01:42 PM
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#14
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: LI, NY
Age: 37
Posts: 67
Real Name: Russ
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: LI, NY
Age: 37
Posts: 67
Real Name: Russ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rack
The Bussman panel is similar to what I used and It worked well. The wires that come with it are not long enough to really go anywhere so you will have to add on to them.The Bussman relay panel is only rated for 80 amps so size your fuse and wire accordingly.
The other blue sea fuse block and fuse are spendy but they attach to the battery connector so there is no drilling plus it makes for a cleaner installation.
The bracket I made is 16 gage sheet metal its strong enough to support the relay panel so no extra support is needed. Yes that is my photo. I don't have a build page but you can see what I have done by going into my album on page #2 you can see how I did this Mod.
I don't profess to be an expert on my builds its more of a Hobby.
Take your time do it right and have fun.
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Thank you, this has been incredibly useful information. I have some ideas in mind now.
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