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Old 01-17-2020, 09:36 AM #31
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Originally Posted by EddieV4runnin View Post
Will we need extended brake lines??


Nope. I will have instructions on how to bend the brake line brackets down ward as well as the abs lines. With that said I’ll make us a extended brake line kit for cool factor and of course function.


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Old 01-17-2020, 09:37 AM #32
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Originally Posted by mynameistory View Post
This was my question, I can see the prototypes look 3D printed. Do they require extended bolts?



Powdercoat is definitely more durable than plain anodize, though it will change the dimensions and tolerance slightly. Plus it's UV stable (though you won't really need to worry about anodize dye fading when it's under the truck, away from sunlight).


It’s going to be anodized in black actually. Yeah I didn’t want to powder coat. Especially like you said it won’t fade under there. Yes they will come with longer bolts. I already sourced them.


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Old 01-17-2020, 09:50 AM #33
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so like i said on IG, when's the front fix coming to put the sway bar in a neutral position on the LCA bushing bracket?
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Old 01-17-2020, 10:12 AM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda250xtitan View Post
so like i said on IG, when's the front fix coming to put the sway bar in a neutral position on the LCA bushing bracket?


Totally will do something to fix that.

Oh dude what’s your gram again. I remember talking with you.


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Old 01-17-2020, 04:14 PM #35
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Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
Totally will do something to fix that.

Oh dude what’s your gram again. I remember talking with you.


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gvan90 or something lol
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Old 01-18-2020, 09:09 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
The height won’t really matter. It’s your shocks that will be the limiting factor. So if they are 25 3/4” - 26” fully extended measured from center of lower eyelet or bolt up to the top of the lower bushing at the pin top mount on the frame. If you can get that spec before hand then you should be good. I’m pretty sure no one really makes anything longer then that anyway for the kdss because no one has been able to pull more then that prior to this part.

Sonoran steel zig zag bar is maxed out at 25 1/2”. And any more with that setup the kdss will invert itself. Mine still has more to go.


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Thanks for the info. The shocks I'm installing are the Fox 985-24-118
PERFORMANCE SERIES 2.0 SMOOTH BODY RESERVOIR SHOCK | Truck Shocks | FOX

And I already have the ICON adjustable track bar, but it doesn't rub or hit the KDSS bar with my current 2" set up and the 5100s. We'll see what happens with the extra travel, as folks have said on this thread that it can rub the more travel introduced in the system.

Great idea and product, can't wait to see what the results are. Excellent work.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:53 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratpack View Post
This is awesome, I have a sonoran steel bar already, do you think it would interfere if I added these as well? If not im in for a pair.
I just ordered my bar, what do you think of yours?
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:18 AM #38
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Originally Posted by atx63bravo View Post
I just ordered my bar, what do you think of yours?
I have one installed. Its definitely noticeable in the ruts for sure. Was nice to get the axle aligned too after the lift
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:58 AM #39
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Good stuff, Finally found someone has the same thought!
Attached Images
Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks-caa7dc09-622d-493b-84ad-e9f8cc380b68-jpg  Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks-cc7832c5-8b37-4c6e-b86d-02588a5578fd-jpg 
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Old 01-23-2020, 12:44 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enginerd4ni View Post
I went down this path in 2016 after installing Icon Stage 6 and getting some major KDSS lean. I tried all the KDSS tricks like bleeding, calibrating, etc. Nothing helped, still leans. The next step was making extension blocks like these. I couldn't figure out the optimum block height so I settled on 50% of the lift height, 3" * 0.5=1.5" Then I lost access to my CNC and moved it to the back burner. I'm curious about your block height and underlying calculations. Do you think this would fix the KDSS lean? My research and understanding of the mechanism suggest it should help but I never completed my blocks to test it out. By the way, my Icon track bar still rubs. I'm so glad you made this work and are going to sell some. I'll buy a set!
No offense.
Just to share my experience.

I’ve done this in 2017, the lean in the front is about 10 mm only. I’ll say it definitely helps.

The way I think is, if you didn’t add the pad to the rear, there will be more pressure in the rear to pull down the KDSS cylinder, and since the front and rear KDSS path are connected, it may create opposite pressure in pushing up the front cylinder and then make the lean worse.

The pad actually helps releasing unexpected pressure to the KDSS cylinder caused by the lift.

My 2 cents.
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Old 01-24-2020, 01:27 AM #41
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Originally Posted by ytsejam View Post
Good stuff, Finally found someone has the same thought!


Dude why did you not make these ? As in for sale and what not ? I would have bought for sure. When I came up with the idea I searched like crazy and found no fix. So I decided to make them. I have my first batch coming soon.


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Old 01-24-2020, 02:23 AM #42
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Originally Posted by ytsejam View Post
Good stuff, Finally found someone has the same thought!
I understand how the ...spacer?... in the rear helps but how does it help in the front? Is there a clearance issue in the front too?
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:33 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyKevin View Post
I understand how the ...spacer?... in the rear helps but how does it help in the front? Is there a clearance issue in the front too?
The spacer/pad in the front is an experimental one. I don’t think it is really necessary for a 2” to 3” lift.

Although the front sway bar will be pull up along with the lift, buy since the sway bar arm is longer than the rear, the pulled height is not as much as the rear. Hence I the thickness of the pad in the front is only 1/2 in my solution.

The reason to have the front padding is I want to restore the piston position of the KDSS link back to center, and relief unexpected force like the rear as well.

Here’s the measurement for KDSS link in the rear for reference:

Max length 385mm
Min length 265mm
from the center of sway bar to the center of top screw hole of the KDSS link.

In theory, the length above should be 320mm if the piston position is in the center position. And the length of the rear KDSS link is 325mm approximately, which is perfect to me.
Attached Images
Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks-c33b05e2-2dd0-49b1-b567-610f2f516689-jpg  Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks-095f870d-fa3e-498d-9b7c-334e210fa203-png 

Last edited by ytsejam; 01-24-2020 at 10:46 PM. Reason: adding measurement, correct typo
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:47 PM #44
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One more thing which I think is quite important. You should check the rubber limiter position of the KDSS link sometimes, especially after off-roads. If that slips, just cut the old stainless straps, reposition the KDSS link to make sure it is vertical and the rubber, and fix it with new straps.

This will help a lot for KDSS/ sway bar effectiveness for on-road driving. If you find that there’s a slip on yours, after restoration, you can feel more stiff and less roll during cornering.
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Old 01-24-2020, 09:56 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom42 View Post
Dude why did you not make these ? As in for sale and what not ? I would have bought for sure. When I came up with the idea I searched like crazy and found no fix. So I decided to make them. I have my first batch coming soon.


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Hello dom42,

That’s why I feel quite happy when I saw your solution. At the time when I designed mine, I need to use 3D scan for perfect matching so that the pad can joint the bottom of KDSS link without any slip in horizontal direction.

For the front one, I only made this for a few team members in our local LC 150 group. PM me if you want to save some time for the front one, but I think it is not a problem for you if you decide to make your own one.
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