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Old 01-26-2020, 09:21 AM #16
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x2 on bilstein 6112 with whatever 2" diameter rear shock you like the stickers most (i like fox branding lol). With wheelers rear springs to keep the back end from bottoming out in any minor dips/g outs...been a killer setup for the az stuff we do
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Old 01-26-2020, 09:42 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda250xtitan View Post
x2 on bilstein 6112 with whatever 2" diameter rear shock you like the stickers most (i like fox branding lol). With wheelers rear springs to keep the back end from bottoming out in any minor dips/g outs...been a killer setup for the az stuff we do
Whatever I get it will probably get sprayed flat black.
I don't like bling.

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Old 01-26-2020, 09:56 AM #18
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Something like this?
Bilstein 6112/5160 5th Gen 4Runner lift kit - YotaMafia

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Old 01-26-2020, 12:05 PM #19
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ome bp 51

Not a lot of people have done an OME kit on the 4runner. I haven't seen a lot of reviews so i wanted to be the ginny pig on the Drive ability with it.

First mention, the reason I went with OME is because they have something called a Bypass Valve, which is basically HIGH SPEED VALVING. This is very important if you like to go over bumps and feel comfortable at high way speeds.

The suspension is very solid and is 0.5" thicker than the competition. I have had it for approx 10k miles without any issues at all and love the Drive ability.

May cost more but it is definitely worth it. If you just want something to level and not pay that much go with the 5100's they will do the job.



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Old 01-26-2020, 01:37 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly4370 View Post
I like the stance of the truck. The spacer leveled it correctly to my eye.
The 285's also seem correct. They used to rub the inner fender ever so slightly. That has been addressed and is no longer an issue.
I like functional components. Though there is the benefit of a bit more ground clearance up front, I consider the spacer cosmetic. I would prefer that 1" to be functional.
Upon reflection, I don't think I need to go higher. My "go fast" days are behind me. Now it's go slow, don't raise dust, what did I miss last time.
Quality shocks with soft springs should help keep my tires planted as I shuffle along. E-locker in back + Atrac should give me 3 wheel drive (2 back, 1 front tire) to maintain the shuffle.
Armor the underside. Replace the Nfab nerfs with sliders. Replace plastic bumpers with metal if/when damage occurs.
A basic outline, subject to change.

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I don't think that you will necessarily have issues with the spacers but since you want a better suspension, you can throw them away in the process. The pictures I have seen of shocks broken due to overextension etc are normally 3" lifts.

I don't race either but you can bottom out the stock suspension at 15 mph easily on many easy desert trails and even on rough dirt roads at 20 mph.

The cheapest way to get good shocks with soft springs is to buy the 4 Eibach shocks and use them with the stock springs with 1.5" front lift and no rear lift (but when loaded, your nose will get really high) or with the 1" Eibach rear spring so you can load it without issues. This is super cost effective. If you still need more performance, then consider adding a Dobinsons spring in the front.

Mind you, the stock springs are not good. They may be soft, but I had Dobinsons front and Eibach rear springs on stock shocks for 7,000 miles and offroad it was MUCH, much better. It was a temporary thing and it helped me better understand what happens when a component is changed individually. The 1" Eibach rear spring made for a more comfortable ride despite the 12% increase in spring rate over stock. Changing the springs alone eliminated bottoming out but of course it posed two issues 1/how long would stock shocks last with aftermarket raised springs and 2/control when driving a bit faster over rougher terrain. The stock shocks are not strong enough to control aftermarket springs off road except at low speeds.
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Last edited by MAST4R; 01-26-2020 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 01-26-2020, 02:02 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly4370 View Post
Whatever I get it will probably get sprayed flat black.
I don't like bling.

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you cant hardly see them regardless.
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Old 01-26-2020, 04:11 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAST4R View Post
I don't think that you will necessarily have issues with the spacers but since you want a better suspension, you can throw them away in the process. The pictures I have seen of shocks broken due to overextension etc are normally 3" lifts.

I don't race either but you can bottom out the stock suspension at 15 mph easily on many easy desert trails and even on rough dirt roads at 20 mph.

The cheapest way to get good shocks with soft springs is to buy the 4 Eibach shocks and use them with the stock springs with 1.5" front lift and no rear lift (but when loaded, your nose will get really high) or with the 1" Eibach rear spring so you can load it without issues. This is super cost effective. If you still need more performance, then consider adding a Dobinsons spring in the front.

Mind you, the stock springs are not good. They may be soft, but I had Dobinsons front and Eibach rear springs on stock shocks for 7,000 miles and offroad it was MUCH, much better. It was a temporary thing and it helped me better understand what happens when a component is changed individually. The 1" Eibach rear spring made for a more comfortable ride despite the 12% increase in spring rate over stock. Changing the springs alone eliminated bottoming out but of course it posed two issues 1/how long would stock shocks last with aftermarket raised springs and 2/control when driving a bit faster over rougher terrain. The stock shocks are not strong enough to control aftermarket springs off road except at low speeds.
This is why I'm looking at package setups that are designed to work together.
My trouble is being new to 4runners.
Old jeeps I know (book-wise), roadrace motorcycles and dragrace bikes and cars I know (hands on).
This is a new realm for me, old dog new tricks.
I'm just now experiencing 4 wheeling. I've checked on a 4x4 club in Bullhead City. Found the "let's not TRY to break things" faction that follows the "crash & roll" bunch. They have lunch while the C&R entertain, then rescue them afterwards.
I just don't know where the trails are. But as you can see from the video there are small obstacles right around my home. Some big obstacles too when I get to that point. Baby steps.
This thread is my research for when my truck with 23,000 miles on it needs parts replaced due to wear or damage.
Many thanks to everyone for the replies. Please keep them coming.

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Old 01-26-2020, 05:21 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly4370 View Post
This is why I'm looking at package setups that are designed to work together.
My trouble is being new to 4runners.
Old jeeps I know (book-wise), roadrace motorcycles and dragrace bikes and cars I know (hands on).
This is a new realm for me, old dog new tricks.
I'm just now experiencing 4 wheeling. I've checked on a 4x4 club in Bullhead City. Found the "let's not TRY to break things" faction that follows the "crash & roll" bunch. They have lunch while the C&R entertain, then rescue them afterwards.
I just don't know where the trails are. But as you can see from the video there are small obstacles right around my home. Some big obstacles too when I get to that point. Baby steps.
This thread is my research for when my truck with 23,000 miles on it needs parts replaced due to wear or damage.
Many thanks to everyone for the replies. Please keep them coming.

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This is the most comprehensive AZ coverage I know of, including GPX tracks at the bottom. Trail descriptions are lapidary but the GPX files are priceless:

Jeep the USA - Best Jeep trails in the Western U.S.

For print books, look for the new edition (3rd) of Charlie Wells, AZ guidebook. It is excellent and should come out this spring.

For difficulty ratings, Wells has the difficult ones divided into suitable for stock and not suitable for stock. Some of the latter will be doable with your upgrade and some will not. But only a few are torture tests and they are marked as such. FunTreks | Offroading Trails | 4 Wheeling


For the Jeep site, the 2.0 normally correspond to easy in Wells and 2.5 to moderate. The 3.0 normally correspond to difficult but suitable for stock in Wells. The 3.5 get very serious. There is only one 3.5 in AZ of interest to me down the road, it is near Tucson. For the rest, the scenic trails are normally the 2.0, 3.0, and 2.5, with the harder ones normally "play trails."
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Old 02-07-2020, 06:47 AM #24
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So for the rear. 1" longer progressive rate springs and corresponding longer travel shocks with adjustable rebound & dampening.
Same on the front, only 2" to keep it level (ditching the current 1" spacer).
Though probably not necessary, would aftermarket UCA be a good idea (stronger)? How about a front diff spacer?

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Old 02-07-2020, 01:10 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly4370 View Post
So for the rear. 1" longer progressive rate springs and corresponding longer travel shocks with adjustable rebound & dampening.
Same on the front, only 2" to keep it level (ditching the current 1" spacer).
Though probably not necessary, would aftermarket UCA be a good idea (stronger)? How about a front diff spacer?

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I don't recall any reports here on bent factory UCA's. It's done for caster and sometimes a little more travel.
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Old 02-18-2020, 02:01 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAST4R View Post
This is the most comprehensive AZ coverage I know of, including GPX tracks at the bottom. Trail descriptions are lapidary but the GPX files are priceless:

Jeep the USA - Best Jeep trails in the Western U.S.

For print books, look for the new edition (3rd) of Charlie Wells, AZ guidebook. It is excellent and should come out this spring.

For difficulty ratings, Wells has the difficult ones divided into suitable for stock and not suitable for stock. Some of the latter will be doable with your upgrade and some will not. But only a few are torture tests and they are marked as such. FunTreks | Offroading Trails | 4 Wheeling


For the Jeep site, the 2.0 normally correspond to easy in Wells and 2.5 to moderate. The 3.0 normally correspond to difficult but suitable for stock in Wells. The 3.5 get very serious. There is only one 3.5 in AZ of interest to me down the road, it is near Tucson. For the rest, the scenic trails are normally the 2.0, 3.0, and 2.5, with the harder ones normally "play trails."
Just received the "Arizona Backroads & 4-wheel Drive Trails" book. Also downloaded AllTrails, Jeep the USA.
Now to find time and someone to come with me.
Though some of the trails I can see from my house.

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Old 02-28-2020, 07:04 AM #27
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So looking for a level or modest lift, currently leveled with front spacer.
- Rear: better shocks. OEM or 1" taller springs with OEM/progressive spring rate.
- Front: 1" to 2" lift (depends on rear) via longer, not stiffer, springs. I would like that additional front height to incorporate additional travel. Again OEM/progressive spring rate.
Can those here with experience suggest specific brands to look at?

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Old 02-28-2020, 01:04 PM #28
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Just buy the Eibach kit. It will work great for your needs and is budget friendly.
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Old 02-28-2020, 01:25 PM #29
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Don't overthink this (easy to do, esp on forums), the Bilstein 6112 and 5100 or 5160 w/rear spring is straightforward, lifetime warranties, and budget friendly. One stop shop.
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:52 AM #30
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Another vote for the Eibach Pro Truck Lift.

My mile long private road and the county roads around me are just like your roads - I have more greenery to look at though. The Eibach lift makes my bumpy rocky, road smooth and comfortable.

On road handling is fantastic with no more body roll or nosedive on braking.

The lift supports the weight of my winch, bumper, sliders, and skids.

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