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Old 01-19-2020, 12:25 PM #31
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Same deal up here in Quebec. I tried touching up with rustoleum on my 2011 and had the front skid sand blasted and repainted on my 2013. The rust creeps back the following season with all the salt they use here.
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:25 PM #32
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Mine has a plastic scoop and it's a 2012.
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Old 01-19-2020, 02:33 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yota1976 View Post
Mine's only got 2500 miles. Could the factory skid be removed and coated with something?
Not worth it. What would be worth it is to remove the bolts and coat them with anti seize for when you do need to do something.
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:31 PM #34
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The stock skids are bad about scooping and collecting debris on top and it's hard to fully clean them off. I bet you guys in salt heavy states are having salt collecting there (maybe being collected by mud or debris stuck on top of the skid) and are having rust issues because of that. When you clean and spray off the underside of your vehicle you'll have to pay extra attention to clean off above the skids.


The skid isnt important, but I'd remove it and check the important stuff, and be ready with a wire brush and POR-15 to clean hp any rust that was starting on important things above the stock skid
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:39 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhguth View Post
The stock skids are bad about scooping and collecting debris on top and it's hard to fully clean them off. I bet you guys in salt heavy states are having salt collecting there (maybe being collected by mud or debris stuck on top of the skid) and are having rust issues because of that. When you clean and spray off the underside of your vehicle you'll have to pay extra attention to clean off above the skids.
I have two sets of stock sitting in my garage and one set of full RCI AU on my truck. Muck hangs on the stock covers like flies on horse sh!t, aftermarkets, not so much, at all really. I worry more about the sh!tty mung pockets in the fender wells, particularly the forward of the rear wheel, that cavity the plastic creates holds an ungodly amount of road salt/slurry/crud.
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Old 01-21-2020, 12:36 PM #36
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Wow, thank you for all the responses so far! I just returned from the long weekend and was able to review the posts.

I e-mailed the manager of the dealership the photos and a quick note about my recent service and it not being mentioned late on Friday, and I received an almost immediate response with an apology and a follow up for later.

Their service manage also called me Monday to discuss the issue (have not spoken to either yet).

I will say the condition of the skid plate does not match the rest of the truck, which does make me wonder if it was just poor materials to start with. Mine was one of the 1st 700 to be produced.

The OEM replacement part seems to be a reasonable/cheap cost, but the issue is going to be the labor depending on how frozen the bolts are.

I plan to trade this in within the next couple of years so I am not sure I want to drop money on high quality aftermarket parts that I will not 'enjoy' for long.

I plan to call the dealership this week to figure out what they give me for options/costs.
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:37 PM #37
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They are removing the skid plate to change the oil filter. So..hope the skid plate bolts aren't too bad. They must have been removed recently. A TRD Aluminum skid is $350 online.
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:53 PM #38
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Having been in bike manufacturing if we see rust on ONE component it's most likely a material defect (or coating). If there's rust all over the bike it's user neglect as the materials will come from a bunch of suppliers and they are not likely to ALL have the same material defect.

In the OPs case this surely appears to be a material or coating defect regardless of it being a sub-frame or a splash guard.

As far as selling it in the next few years: I'd replace the guard either way. It would bother me knowing that's under my car.

And how dare the dealership NOT mention, "Hey, your splash guard is rusting away. We have some options to replace that for you." That would have been what is more commonly known as "customer service". But dealers aren't really known for that.
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Old 01-21-2020, 01:57 PM #39
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I use Fluid Film to control rust. Its not paint but a waxy anti corrosive coating that prevents rust. Just spray it on anything that starts to look rusty. Smells great too.
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Old 01-21-2020, 05:58 PM #40
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Extremely accelerated deterioration on the skid plate. Maybe lack or improper coating/painting. BUT they do rust quickly. On my 11 FJ Cruiser the skid plate was the first to see rust and I fluid filmed often from new. The steel was "pancaked" (layers) and debris must of got in the crevices and it started to expand over the years. Soaking that area in oil helped for a few years.

The new (18) TRD ORP got a TRD aluminum skid plate and extra sprayings of Woolwax (HD Fluid Film) prior to the winter. Its still a constant battle here in MA
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:05 AM #41
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I'm curious about how they were able to remove that skid plate to do the oil change, without it falling apart.
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Old 01-23-2020, 10:24 AM #42
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I'm curious about how they were able to remove that skid plate to do the oil change, without it falling apart.
They just reached through it.
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Old 01-23-2020, 11:47 AM #43
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That's kinda remarkable for how short of time it's been out in the real world. I've noticed very similar things on my 4Runner. Some specific parts (mostly hardware like the bolts on the skids) has deteriorated at an extremely accelerated rate. I assume there must be a galvanic corrosion situation happening. Other parts show essentially zero rust even where exposed to the elements and paint is scratched off.

I think Toyota is making some parts from very substandard metals - and/or they are made from metals with unusually different anodic indexes. Mitsubishi was busted a few years ago for falsifying metal testing and I think Toyota was one of their customers. So it's possible that they were using cheap shit metal for these parts as a result of falsified supplier verification. OTOH I have not seen any major rust issues on the frames or any of the critical components on my own vehicle while the skid hardware has essentially just disintegrated.

Finally - aluminum skid would act as a sacrificial anode if well connected to the frame - and that's a good thing IMO. Same with your current skid if it's acting as an anode and being dissolved by rust while protecting the frame and other components.
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:50 PM #44
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Yeah, I have also noticed strange hardware corrosion. I could see using a lower quality on non-crucial hardware BUT I had them replace the rear solid KDSS linkage at year 1.5. I removed the bottom cup holding the bushing when I installed the rear suspension, it was pitted to h3ll, so much so that it was embedded in the bushing, some pits 1-2mm deep. Really strange. While it would take a while to fully corrode through still unsettling.

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Finally - aluminum skid would act as a sacrificial anode if well connected to the frame - and that's a good thing IMO. Same with your current skid if it's acting as an anode and being dissolved by rust while protecting the frame and other components.
now that makes me want to throw a couple of tack welds to blow through the powder coat on the steel cross member holding the transmission skid plate...
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:29 PM #45
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Yeah, I have also noticed strange hardware corrosion. I could see using a lower quality on non-crucial hardware BUT I had them replace the rear solid KDSS linkage at year 1.5. I removed the bottom cup holding the bushing when I installed the rear suspension, it was pitted to h3ll, so much so that it was embedded in the bushing, some pits 1-2mm deep. Really strange. While it would take a while to fully corrode through still unsettling.



now that makes me want to throw a couple of tack welds to blow through the powder coat on the steel cross member holding the transmission skid plate...
In theory the engine's aluminum block should be doing that as well as anything, and it's pretty well grounded to the frame already. But I can't really figure out why it's so hit or miss on other parts. Some bolts look like new. Others look like they were recently recovered from the Titanic.

I wish I knew more about this issue than a pretty high level understanding. And - toyota should understand it better than just about anyone and have considered it in engineering the product. I don't expect them to last forever. But I do expect them to last for at least 15-20 years without meaningful rust problems.

I've always thought this diagram is perfect as an example of how you get unexpected problems from something as simple as plugging in your boat at the same dock as someone with another boat that has a different material for the propeller. With all of the different metals in a modern car - I'm not sure how best to protect the metal from the corrosion problems that can be caused by all of the dissimilar metals.


I'm curious what Toyota tells the OP.

Last edited by Jetboy; 01-23-2020 at 03:02 PM.
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