Thanks for that info ! I have the same issue here.. So I loosened up my UCA Bolts which helped soften the ride a little But i am still experiencing a Bouncy/Stiff Ride So Far. But i am only a Week or so into driving after install and alignment of the Dirt King LCA's

Head Scratch
Any ideas would be Awesome .

Thank you !
2010 4runner Limited

I'm guessing most of you still have issues, or some may still with minor improvements...
Figured I'd write a bit on this as I too have struggled (still struggle) with this issue.
Installed my DK LCA on my 2015 summer of 2020. SUPER bouncy. I took a LOT of measurements, definitely seemed like the inner metal sleeve within the derlin bushing was recessed more than it should be...given how derlin bushings work.
Lets get something straight, derlin bushings are meant to pivot around inner metal sleeve, so those who make the "loosen it, then tighten it under load" comment...I'll say that this really should not matter given the way this bushing works. Stock bushings are rubber, and do not act in a hinge like manner as derlin bushings do. The rubber in stock bushings actually is fixed and flexes to create a bit of resistance, but also absorb the loads on the suspension...we'll come back to the load absorbing aspect in a sec...
So, I called DK...emailed them measurements (pulled my LCA's off more than a few times). I ended up ordering Fox 2.5's w dsc's thinking it would make them better. Nope.
Here's what we (DK and I) came up with at the time. The powder coat was applied beyond the 'target' thickness casing the black part of the bushings to essentially stick out more than the inner metal sleeve.
So the culprit (in theory) at the time was that the Bushing was not actually working as designed. The inner metal sleeve becomes fixed when tightening the LCA bolts, and the black outer busing is to rotate around the sleeve *freely* with moderate resistance.
Getting back to the stock LCA for a moment, as I said I would...the rubber bushing flexes under load and the LCA is allowed to 'shift' a little while the suspension hits bumps, etc. This makes for a softer ride, BUT these bushings wear out, and create alignment/suspension issues (noise) etc. DERLIN BUSHINGS WILL CREATE A MORE STIFF RIDE. The LCA is not longer pivoting on a rubber fixed bushing, and now is rotating on a more fixed axis, which in turn creates a bit more feedback from the road, trails, etc.

So what's the fix. Well, this is an ongoing mechanical-science project in my book. Hindsight tells me the fix is: I should have just gone long travel.

BUT, here's what I've done so far, and where I'm headed just to see if I can dial them in...somewhere in me believes that I can get a better ride out of these F'ing things than what I've got now.

First step I took: removed LCA's, pull busings out, and took a belt sander to the bushing ends that meet the brackets on the frame, which in turn (by feel) I exposed the inner metal sleeve literally by a playing card thickness on both sides of the busing when put back together. This helped...a lot, but honestly left me wanting for a bit more. I've continued to tinker for the past two, almost three years now on this.

I've drawn up theoretical bushing ideas to possibly try to solve then send over to DK just so they have something to maybe work from.

One idea is essentially shortening the entire bushing and inner sleeve on both sides, and adding a washer that marries up with the inner sleeve, and makes for a smooth surface to mate up to the inner LCA mounts (which are actually not smooth if you notice they are meant to lock the stock LCA bushings in place).

I've then added the idea of drilling at least one small grease relief holes in the black (outer) bushing either parallel to the inner sleeve, or creating an elongate notch where the inner metal sleeve meets the outer black sleeve, which allows grease to press through the bushing itself, towards the now mating surface of a new smooth washer, by which the bushing will be able to rotate more smoothly upon, AND the drilled hole or 'notch' will not push the outer bushing out (hold pressure) alleviating possible 'bushing bind' as I call it.

Now, the above idea has come after I've done a LOT of things to TRY and soften this puppy up. I studied shock valving...changes my shock valving on my FOX 2.5's w DSC's...seriously. I bought the nitrogen tank to re-pressurize, a variety of valve stacks (compression and rebound) spent countless hours trying to find a way to get that 'softer ride' I felt was somewhere within reach.

I found myself disappointed through the revalving process, so I was like, hmmm...KING Coilovers start with 550# springs, and FOX starts at 600#, I only have a hybrid bumper, pretty light skid,....synthetic rope on my winch, MAYBE I should try a 550# King coil on my now 'hybrid #65 flutter valved compression/#80 rebound' Fox shocks. With my 600# coils i was sitting at 35% spring rate...top end, but within a reasonable range... I think the low end is 25%. Not an expert in this, but basically un-sprung length vs. under load helps calculate this. Knowing your spring bind length is important so that you can factor in your travel (mainly up-travel) remaining once the vehicle is under load. If I recall the 550# spring brought me right on the cusp of 27%~ sitting pretty much right in the middle of my shock up/down travel with a bit more pre-load necessary to get the front (lift) up toward the 2.5-3" range...prob more like 2.5. I've been lifted for so long I don't know what stock is.

So, lots of words, I know...did this help...heh, some...maybe...yes I think so.

Part of my revalving 'theory' was to stiffen the rebound a bit, as I always felt like the suspension was too quick to 'put the tires back on the ground' as I would hit a speed bump at speed. and then back off of the compression a good bit, mainly to do two things: (1) soften the ride, which was the goal all along, and (2) create more adjust-ability with the DSC H/L speed adjusters. These adjusters mainly impact compression only, and rebound is what it is, so I figured if I overshot the compression on the soft side too much, then I could tune it with the high priced adjusters that honestly made no difference before...especially with my LCA bushing bind happening.

I've since had a lot going on with a re-gear, and stuffing 315" (34") tires on my rig. I can say I'm still wanting for a more dialed in ride. And, I also will say that if I could go back to when I first installed my DK LCA's take a quick ride, then fast forward to now, I'd probably be like, "um, this is a cadilac compared to what it was before.

Conclusively, I do think this is an issue, and that most people probably 'jsut deal with it' because, well- you've spent a sh*t ton of money on new LCA's and you don't want to admit they ride like a low-rider. Now, on the other hand, i do understand more about the Derlin bushings, and how they will add a bit more feedback from the road...which, I can respect a lot of people wanting/liking from a handling perspective. Truth be known, the verdict is still out in my book as to whether I simply made a mistake and should have been patient with this purchase. Ultimately, I wish I went with LT. Can't take it back, and I'm persistently trying to get the best out of what I have. One day, I'd love to re-write this novel and tell everyone that experience(d\s) this, a real remedy...or better yet, let DK in on the fix, for no charge of my countless sweat, blood, tears, and time...just so everyone can benefit.

If you're struggling still, try this first: Lower your LCA bolt torque to around 60-ft LBS. Mark your cam tabs first, just in case they shift a bit...don't go 'baja 1000'...just a quick circle around the block. Did this feel softer? If so, then you're likely experiencing the bushing bind issue.

Shave a little off the black bushing, A LITTLE AT A TIME...LIKE BASEBALL CARD THICKNESSNESS...and try it.

Also, I've noticed that after I've greased them up...detatch the coil over and the two bolts at the spindle....pivot the arm by hand a bit to let the grease pressure relieve itself, and also helps get grease between the bushing and the LCA mount. This alone has made a difference, especially after a hard wheeling with mud and water involved. Can feel the difference after doing this.

Hopefully this helps some of you...sorry for the lengthy response, and I know I'm late to the party...old thread...not active on here. Been wanting to off-load years with this 'issue', and just finally did. Cheers.