Thanks for the info and pic. Looks sharp! How is the tire fitment? You running spacers? Trimming?

Thanks! The tire fitment is great! I've got 255/80R17s. In this picture no spacers on, and no rubbing (just the occasional rub on the mudflap at a weird turn offroading, very minor).

Since the photo I've put on Spidertrax 1.25" spacers. I was rubbing bad on the front mud flap, so those got hacked up - they are pretty much off at this point. I do rub in reverse on the front fender liner slightly, so I need to adjust that or do a high clearance cut - just not sold if I want to do the cut without the C4 wings - so going to mess with moving the fender liner forward this week.

I think it'll be setup pretty good for a different wheel/tire combo (looking at 33x10.5 Kumho RT's next) with no rubbing. The skinny's help with MPG - it dropped with the bumper/winch install but is still holding about 18-18.5 depending how I'm driving.

Haven't read the thread, but do we know if the long travel shots will work on a 5th gen that has KDSS removed? I assume they would but I'm no expert and didn't say in a holiday inn express.

The front longer travels work with or without KDSS, no problem there.

The rears will work with KDSS removed

Got everything installed. This is 574/302 up front and 329 springs in the rear. Still running shocks from another Australian mfr that shall go unnamed.

Going to have to fly in some IMS rears under the Mrs radar. Everything is riding pretty tall right now but I’ll get measurements when it settles in. So far very happy with the drive.



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Mike,

From your website it appears the C300 front springs are on backorder. Any idea what kind of timeframe you're looking at? Also wondering if you've worked with any good install shops in the Seattle area?

Thanks

Early July on those coils.

I know several guys at Mule up there. Great shop, very capable.

5/8/2021:
Installed front & rear IMS suspension, diff drop and UCAs. Drove it gently for a week to let things settle. Had a clunk sound in the right front with the wheel cranked most of the way to the right. Same clunk sound in the front left with the wheel cranked most of the way to the left. Figured it was the CV's complaining. The front measured about 5" higher than it was previously with the oem suspension just after the lift. Here are the before & afters, measured on level ground from center of wheel to bottom of wheel well:

Before lift:
19-2/16" front left
21-9/16" rear left

19-5/16" front right
21-12/16" rear right

Just after lift (aftermarket skid plates not yet installed):
24-2/16" front left
25-2/16" rear left

24-2/16" front right
24-14/16" rear right

The only aftermarket addition prior to the lift was Shrockworks sliders (90 lbs). I had an eimkeith panhard correction bracket welded on about a month before the lift. The oem panhard bar is in the lower hole on the bracket, and is more or less horizontal after the lift was installed. I also installed the Treaty Oak KDSS brackets front and rear, which seem to work well since there is no lean in front, and only minimal lean in the rear.

5/15/2021:
Installed a full set of C4 Fab skid plates (front, transmission, transfer case, cross-member & fuel tank). The C4 skids weigh 200 lbs. Skids and sliders together, minus the removal of the oem skids, is about 250 lbs heavier than a stock truck. The extra weight helped to soften the ride quite a bit. The front end clunk is mostly gone unless it's turned close to full lock and I step on the gas.

5/27/2021:
2.5 weeks after lift was installed, with all C4 skid plates installed and front end aligned:
23-12/16" front left
24-12/16" rear left

23-12/16" front right
24-10/16" rear right

The latest measurements are exactly the same as the ones taken 10 days ago, so it looks like it has settled about as far as it's going to. If that's the case, the actual lift height above standard (20" front, 22" rear) is 3.75" front and 2.7" rear, which is about an inch higher than I was expecting for both the front & rear. Really wish I had ordered the 2.5"/1.5" springs, instead of the 3"/2". I may try lowering the front coil seats a 1/4 or 1/2 inch or so to see if that helps. I love the look, and it drives very nice, but man...that height doesn't leave much room for downtravel.

Thanks for taking the time to document and share all this. I would only deduct a few points for not putting your fractions in simplest form… lol! Looks great!

How are the tires treating you? I’d love a 255/80/17 OC AT3 but don’t want an E rated tire. Mileage and power effects after the tires and lift? I may go with that tire in SL 285/70…

Did you measure to see if you had lean before the lift? Did you set your spring seats at the same height of 213 from center of bolt on both sides? Didn’t use a spacer pack? Just trying to figure out if the lean was addressed via your KDSS spacers or not. I ordered the trim pack for KDSS just in case but haven’t decided if I’m going to use it yet…

I ordered and have received the 296 front springs (1.5”) and the 305 rear springs (1.5”). (700 and 705 IMS shocks) I read the 305 really gives you 2” though. Not sure if that 2” is above the baseline of 22” or 2” is what most people actually see after their stock rig had settled some which may equate to 1.5” above the standard 22”. I was originally looking for about 2”/1.5” lift. But if the 305s give me 2”, then I’ll have to go at least 2” or preferable 2.25” or 2.5” in the front to reduce the rake some. That would have me maxing out pre-load with the 296 which I don’t want to do. So I’m on the fence about ordering the 302’s (2.5”) and see what that gives me and lower the seat if needed… (300’s could be an option too I guess… but out of stock a lot of places…) None of this is the end of the world, I just want to hit it as close to my goal as I can without having to take it all apart again… your info is very helpful. Thanks.

Fuel economy on the 255/80/17s (18.7 mpg) was the same if not slightly better than the oem tires (19.5 mpg), after correcting for the difference in revs per mile. The speedometer is now accurate. The odometer underreports mileage by about 4.5% or so = free extended warranty! There is a slight difference in both acceleration and braking, but overall it's minimal. I strongly prefer the way it drives with the E loads. These tires laugh off crappy pavement at any speed. I'll never go back to a P-metric tire.

Yes, mine had a 3/16" lean to the left on both the front and rear prior to the lift. The oem suspension had less than 20k miles on it, and it was already sagging quite a bit below the standard benchmark of 20" front and 22" rear that Dobinsons uses.

I had the front struts pre-built through Dobinsons, so everything went from the box straight onto the truck. No spacers on the rear coils. The paperwork said the front coil seats were set to the standard 213mm. I didn't measure either strut to verify this though.

Glad to help.

I ordered the 314 front coils (3" stock weight) and 325 rear coils (2" stock weight) figuring they would settle to 2.5" to 2.75" front and 1.5" to 1.75" rear since my truck is heavier than stock. Unfortunately, it looks quite a bit higher than I wanted. I've noticed others are reporting higher lift heights with other coil combinations as well. As always, YMMV...

Dobinsons UCA update!! The container is on the way and due right at the end of the month, so the first week or 2 of July, all pending backorders will be shipping out and there are a lot in the container also, so we can take new orders for them as well.

4Runner UCA's by Dobinsons also suit GX470 GX460 and FJ Cruiser

Looks good! I have a similar setup, but with the C302 coils. I'm sitting about 24.3" in the rear (i've got the 725 coils, so the passenger has a built in 15mm spacer) and I've raised the front perch from 213mm to 226mm. My front is sitting at 23.0", which was my max want for having some down-travel left. Just rocked it on 16 miles of very rocky offroad trails over Memorial Day and it road great.

Also much easier to lower than raise without dis-assembly. Just spray some oil on the threads first to make your life a lot easier.

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Looks great!! Thanks for the tip.

I currently have Dobinsons twin valve shocks and coils front and back. With my 730lb front springs (because of full front bumper) it is harsh on cracked and bad roads unfortunately.

Will upgrading to the IMS monotube shocks make things softer?

I also want about an inch more lift up front so with the IMS I can increase the lift with the perch height.

Also, can I have IMS up front and the twin valve shocks in the back? From my research that is probably fine..

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Hey man,

Yeah, the IMS ride a good bit different than the twin tubes, and if you add the longer ones (Dobinsons IMS59-50574 Monotube IFP Long Travel Front Struts) with those coils, you'll have as much down travel as you can get plus the added 1" of lift height you want to get out of it.

Yeah, lots of guys are running IMS up front and twin tube or MRA in the rear. @Sundy did that for a while I'm pretty sure, then changed out to IMS in the back after he could afford the swap and has been raving about it since.