I have KDSS which I believe limits down travel so would you still recommend the "long travel shocks?" I am looking to have a 2.5-3" of front lift. I don't have "extended" anything else and have the coils "C59-352 - 200-240LBS heavy load front weight, 2.25-2.5" lift. 385/385mm, 18mm wire, 730LB"

I guess the question is, will the long travel shocks be smashed at full compression, or will the non long-travel shocks limit my extension at 2.5" of lift? Keeping in mind I have KDSS.

The two shocks in question:
IMS59-50700 - IMS Front Struts - suits 0-3" lift
IMS59-50574 - IMS Front Long Travel Struts - suits 2-3.5" lift

There's no problem running what I recommended to you. It's the rear that can't run the long travel shocks.

You're looking for 2.5-3" lift, which is why you should use the IMS59-50574

Mike, looking for a shop here in FL that you'd recommend to do the installation. Want to sort that out before I buy. I'm in Fort Lauderdale, but don't mind traveling for a trustworthy shop. I've done some light research and haven't found much. I moved out here from Socal and use to have everything done at Aiden James Customs.

Looking forward to getting some IMS goodies. Want to get the most lift possible without compromising down travel and correct the KDSS lean. Have a full steel CBI front bumper, sliders, Gobi rack, and usually have a lot of gear in the back.

Appreciate the time. Thanks.

Hey man,

I've never done anything with them, but someone else recommended these guys

Terry's Toppers | Vehicle Accessory Center

and ask for Tony.

There's also Lux Tires down in Doral/Miami that has done a whole bunch of installs, they did mine a few years back.

For what you're trying to do, 3" lift up front with the C59-352 coils and IMS59-50574 struts, UCA's and diff drop, then C59-327 and IMS59-50701 with PS59-4025 spacer in the rear.

That can all be put together here: Dobinsons IMS Suspension Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-21 | Exit Offroad

The front and rear coils are due in early July

Thanks for the detailed breakdown! I'm sending you a PM now.

Mike - thanks again for your help here. Sorry about so many questions. I'm taking your recommendations for the shocks but still have some questions regarding the coils.

I'm still undecided on whether the 352 or the 354 coils up front would be best. I don't want to have too much lift so that it affects the IMS shock performance/CV wear as I've heard other getting more lift then expected, but I still want a substantial lift to clear 315/70/17s (already have the other mods required done). Keep in mind that I do have a 200+ pound front bumper and I'm planning on installing the Treaky KDSS brackets front and rear.

Additionally, what rear coil would come as close as possible to the Icon 3" Overland coil? Had some friends say its a great coil for heavier loads. Are there any rear coils that offer 3" lift that also work with KDSS?

Thanks you.

Use the 354's up front then.

The 677V is a little stronger than the Icon Overlanders. With the Treaty Oak spacers installed, you'll be ok with those springs in and the IMS59-50701 shocks. It's the lean produced without spacers installed when lifting 2.5" or more in the back, which is why those springs say "not for KDSS everywhere" so that people don't crap their pants when they have a 1"+ lean.

Order placed, thanks for the help Mike! I opted for local pick up in Doral since I'm pretty close by in Fort Lauderdale. I'm going to be checking my email for updates every 5 minutes now, lol!

I wanted to come here and provide some feedback on my lift. This may be long (first time I’ve ever said that…) so I’ll break it up by topic.

Exit Offroad/Mike - Mike at Exit Offroad was awesome to work with. Extremely quick to respond. I even changed the rear shock I wanted after placing the order and he got with the warehouse and within hours my order had been changed. (The warehouse ended up not sending out the right ones but Mike hurried out the correct ones and I had them in two days. He was quick to make it right.) Definitely recommend Exit Offroad!!

What I Got - I ordered an IMS lift for front and rear. 302 front springs (2.5” nominal lift stock), 505 rear springs (1.5” nominal lift stock), 50700 IMS front shocks and 50705 IMS rear comfort tuned shocks. Also got the front and rear passenger side shims to address KDSS lean. I wanted a softer riding suspension than what is typically found in a digressive tuned shock (these are progressive tuned) and something high quality that would last.

Install - Not going too detailed with this since there are tons of other write-ups. But these are some things I learned that I don’t recall seeing in other instructions. I bought new strut top plates so I could pre-assemble my coilovers using my spring compressor. These springs are stiff but mine aren’t HD so my compressors worked but may not work for everyone. (Be careful with compressors!!) Drivers side front went in super easy with no KDSS disconnect. Passengers side front was a pain and I disconnected sway bar from LCA and from the fixed link. With a jack and leverage went back together pretty easily. I set the fronts a little high so I could easily clean the threads and lower the seats as needed to dial things in.

Rear was pretty easy as well. Was able to leave both sides of the sway bar connected since I used spring compressors to remove and install springs. (Thanks @Jetboy ) I installed the spacers/shims front and rear on passenger side to address potential lean.

I’m pretty mechanical and I had help so it took about 5 hours total and that was not being in a hurry and enjoying some cold beverages. Looking back, it was easier than I was expecting. YMMV. Also, get some flex head ratcheting wrenches. Makes life so much easier!!

Results - I over analyzed what to get because I didn’t want to screw around with this multiple times! My Numbers are below, hub to fender.

Pre Lift
Front
19.25 19.00
Rear
21.75. 21.75

As you can see. Fair amount of sag up front exaggerating rake and a little lean up front and no lean in the back.

After Lift (After a couple of days and 200 miles)
Front
22.75” 22.75”
Rear
24.25 24.75”

I knew it hadn’t finished truly settling but it was clear to me the rear didn’t need the spacer. I had read the lift could exaggerate any lean so that’s why I installed it in the beginning. So I removed it. And that eliminated the rear backwards KDSS lean. I was surprised the front was high on the passenger side but would correct by lowering seat rather than removing the shim. My camber was way off and since I had gotten an extra 1/2” of lift in the back than I was expecting with the 505’s, I was going to have to leave the front a bit higher. So I decided to get UCAs to ensure the correct ride and good alignment since I would be pushing or over 2.5” lift in the front.

Went with Freedom Offroad on that per @Sundy recommendation. After that install it drove and handled much better even before an alignment. But what was weird, the UCAs affected what I was measuring for lift. Strange but perhaps the extra camber created a measurement of more lift?

After UCA install and after the alignment and my current numbers are below.

Front
22.75” 22”
Rear
24” 24”

I’ll drive it for about a month and then if it all stays pretty much the same, then I’ll lower the front left a little and should be good!!

Performance

The initial imbalanced bouncing I experienced is completely gone. While the ride is firmer than I was hoping/expecting, it’s ride is predictable and stable. And on larger bumps and dips it handles it well. It’s almost smoother the faster I go over dips. There are some RR crossings that used to be quite rough, but it floats over them at speed. Wish it was softer over smaller road bumps… I haven’t gotten off road yet, but hope to soon.

Pics. I’ll try to load in order. Pre-lift, then after lift but before new tires, then after new tires.

Attached Images

     

Maybe I read this wrong. You installed a shim on the front passenger side and it's 3/4" lower than the driver side? Have you considered the Treaty Oak KDSS front and rear spacer kit? That may help solve the front lean without using different preload settings, and it should also help you to get full extension on the rear passenger side by avoiding interference with the panhard rod. That's what I did on mine. No lean in the front and it's at +3.75".

Glad to see your rears went on at only 1/2" high with no lean. I could live with that all day long.

You read that right. 3/4” higher on front left even with the 1/4” spacer on the passenger side. But the left is actually at the correct height for the spring and the seat height I used. (216 seat height instead of 213 so it should be 2.75” over baseline. Passenger side is actually low…)Perhaps the Treaty Oak spacers would be a good idea to finish correcting all the geometry. May lengthen the life of my swaybar bushings as well… How does it impact the skid plate? I still have my stock skid plate….

I've read the stock skid plate may require some cutting if you use the front KDSS spacer, but I honestly don't know. I have a KDSS compatible front skid from C4 Fab which has no interference.

If you got a diff drop kit with your lift, the small spacers are intended to be used to lower the stock skid plate to avoid interference. If not, let me know and I could probably send you the ones that came with my kit since I didn't need them.

I had originally ordered the diff drop kit, but it was on back order so I canceled it and decided not gmto get it after all. For my height, I’m skeptical of the benefits… If you don’t mind shipping, I’ll be happy to cover the cost for the spacers. Thanks! PM me.

I'm looking at this lift for when I get my new 4Runner. What size are your Falken Wildpeaks?

In the first two pics, you see the Falken Wildleaks which were SL 265/70-17 (stock size) and had 60k miles on them so they were wore out. My new tires in the 3rd pic are SL 285/70-17 Toyo Open Country AT3.