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Old 02-13-2020, 12:17 AM #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesNellis View Post
Yeah maybe. That would cutoff would bug me.
By any chance can check how both your projector lens sit in the housings?

On mine, I noticed there is a gap difference between the housings and low beam projectors. The drivers side sits a little further back than the passenger side.
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*Review* Alpharex Pro headlights-7113f3b8-9973-403d-9f2a-5c3d61b662de-jpg  *Review* Alpharex Pro headlights-c5f5a3f3-77cf-4ad7-90b1-ab4235a7ef9b-jpg 
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:11 AM #47
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Originally Posted by mcat707 View Post
Alpharex should note this issue on their product page, To save customers from returning their product and having to deal with that BS. They should be up front about it. Itís not like they didnít know about it. How could they not?
If I would have known that I would have to take off the bumper every time I need to remove bulbs I probably would have held off on buying my set.

Iím on the fence of returning them at this point. Too lazy to take off my bumper and reinstall my stock set.

I guess they want to take that gamble on customers like me who might just keep theirs.
You mean like they do here, in their blog.

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NOVA-Series Cons: The LED chips is not replaceable, so if the LED burns out, you will need to replace the whole set of headlights. To solve this contra, we provide a 2 year warranty on our headlights; furthermore, we use Osram LED chips which is used by a lot of high end stock factory headlights as well, so the quality is trustworthy
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:20 AM #48
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Originally Posted by PK930 View Post
Yeah that's pretty disappointing, IMO. 2 years is a a bit of a joke. It says to me that you don't stand behind your product at all. The Morimoto's at least offer a 5 year warranty, which still seems a bit skimpy. I'm not saying they should have a lifetime warranty, but for $1200 you'd expect to maybe have a 10 year warranty.

I just can't see myself spending that much on those headlights (even though they seem to be quality) when they seemingly don't stand behind their products. Toyotas/4runners are some of the most durable and dependable trucks in the world; by adding a product like this, you don't know if you're adding something that can live up to that standard or not.
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:22 AM #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PK930 View Post
The PRO-Series. Not talking about the Nova series.

Like mentioned before, the PRO-Series requires bumper removal and headlight assembly removal to the access dust cap, to get to the low beam bulbs.

There is no way you can get the low beam bulb out while the headlight is installed. Unless you can squeeze it out of 1/4 inch space.

OP posted pics in the OP
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:35 AM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcat707 View Post
By any chance can check how both your projector lens sit in the housings?

On mine, I noticed there is a gap difference between the housings and low beam projectors. The drivers side sits a little further back than the passenger side.
Mine are pretty even.


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Old 02-13-2020, 01:42 AM #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesNellis View Post
Mine are pretty even.


Then that might be why my cutoff line is crooked.
I sent an email to Alpharex with pictures of the lens gap and cut off line. Hopefully they will respond quickly.

Thank you for checking and posting pics. Its appreciated.
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Old 02-16-2020, 02:33 PM #52
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Originally Posted by mcat707 View Post
Here is what I got a few days ago. These are with OEM fogs. As you can see its not as straight as yours. Had to go back and lower the height yesterday.
So I removed my headlights to see how I insert them in because I wanted to make sure the "rod" was facing down on the bulb.

Turns out they weren't. I was at about a 10 o clock position with the tab and the rod was at 4.

I fixed it so I was at 12 o clock and the rod was now at 6 o clock.

Remounted the lights and now my passenger side had a wacky beam pattern!

I messed around with it a bit and 10 o clock gave me the best pattern on the passenger's side and 12 o clock on the driver's side.

I guess these cheap Amazon HID bulbs may not be on a perfect plane so you have to pick the right spot for them.

I would try to reclock before you return.
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Old 02-17-2020, 12:04 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesNellis View Post
So I removed my headlights to see how I insert them in because I wanted to make sure the "rod" was facing down on the bulb.

Turns out they weren't. I was at about a 10 o clock position with the tab and the rod was at 4.

I fixed it so I was at 12 o clock and the rod was now at 6 o clock.

Remounted the lights and now my passenger side had a wacky beam pattern!

I messed around with it a bit and 10 o clock gave me the best pattern on the passenger's side and 12 o clock on the driver's side.

I guess these cheap Amazon HID bulbs may not be on a perfect plane so you have to pick the right spot for them.

I would try to reclock before you return.

Thanks, this is something I will look into.
I sent an email and a text message to AlpaRex last week addressing my crooked cut off line problem and the projector lens mounting differences between the L and R low beams. Still waiting to hear back from them. I want to see what they say before I go into moving around the bulb again.
Iíve already removed my bumper and headlights 3 times and that shit gets old.
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:40 PM #54
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So I gotta ask. With all the pita of pulling the bumper. Would you buy them again?
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:52 PM #55
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So I gotta ask. With all the pita of pulling the bumper. Would you buy them again?
Love my pro lights. Really only takes 10 minutes to pull it. 30 mins first time for me since the 2020 has 2 extra bolts you gotta unscrew under the hood latch for the safety sense I didn't see. Would most likely buy novas in future if they have good beam pattern
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Old 02-17-2020, 04:08 PM #56
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So I gotta ask. With all the pita of pulling the bumper. Would you buy them again?
Yes. One of the best mods I've done so far. The part I hate most about removing the bumper are those stupid fender line clips.
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Old 02-17-2020, 05:55 PM #57
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From my experience with taking off body panels, fender liners, splash guards, bumpers and other shit (not just on the T4R) is sometimes the body clips/retainers break, lines donít match up after reinstalling, tabs get wore down and donít hold as strong as before, risk of scratching plastic bumpers and other shit, (already scratched my AlphaRex PROs on a metal part), threads on screws and holes wear down and risk of stripping, etc.

All this I would like to avoid. Iím 50/50 on the question on would I buy them again. If I didnít buy them and if I was reading other people commenting on this same issue, I would have held off and just stuck with my OEM headlights.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:18 PM #58
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Thanks for the review... I've been drooling over how they look.
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Old 02-17-2020, 07:21 PM #59
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I got the ďproĒ headlights how do you wire them up . I wanna stay with the H11 hid bulbs xenon depot but there tons of wires coming out of the headlights . How do you connect them all. Clueless on the ones with the yellow wires side marker ones
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:26 PM #60
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I got the ďproĒ headlights how do you wire them up . I wanna stay with the H11 hid bulbs xenon depot but there tons of wires coming out of the headlights . How do you connect them all. Clueless on the ones with the yellow wires side marker ones
It's plug and play. Every stock connector has a home outside of the light assembly. Then there are only 2 connectors inside the dust cap. One for your high and and one for yourblow beam.

I'm not even sure if an H11 socket will fit in the H7 socket of the Pros.
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