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Old 03-05-2020, 06:56 AM #1
mr.walleye mr.walleye is offline
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Adding LED light bar to hi beams

I'm adding an LED light bar and I want to tie into the hi beams, I got 2 wiring extension cords from the retro fit shop where I got my hi beam bulbs from, this way I don't have to cut into the factory wiring. My question is, is tapping into one side going to be enough power for the light bar and will the side I tap into be dimmer if I don't tie into both side? Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:11 AM #2
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You shouldn't share the same connection as the factory highs to be the sole power source. You will overdraw the circuit and likely blow the fuse.

You can however take a relayed harness that tees off of one of the factory high beam plugs to be your signal or trigger source for the relay. This is the way all added light fixtures should be wired.

This will also have no negative effects that your concerned about as well.
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:22 AM #3
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Like he said you should use the high beam power wire to signal a relay. Very easy to wire.
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Old 03-05-2020, 10:25 AM #4
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Yep, you'll want to use the relay harness for the LED bar
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Old 03-05-2020, 12:36 PM #5
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All you need is a SPDT on-off-on switch and the relay harness that might have come with your light bar.
Switch common goes to the relay coil, load one goes to the battery with fuse, load two taps into the high beams.
The switch in the middle position will keep the light bar off no matter what. The next two positions allow manual on and high beam on.
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Old 03-05-2020, 01:23 PM #6
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There me be an issue where the DRL's send power to the HB bulbs and turn the rely on?
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:50 PM #7
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I would advise against it all together. Run a separate switch with a relay.

Here is why: In some states its illegal to have more then 4 forward facing lights on at a time. Also I am pretty sure the light is not DOT approved, and or will violate some other on the road light law.

SPods systems are nice. You can alsouse push switches that fit into the factory blanks, so you don't need a whole spod system.
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Old 03-05-2020, 11:13 PM #8
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I agree with @dade73 . Personally I don’t feel it’s a good idea to tie to the high beams since you cannot defeat it if law enforcement doesn’t like it. I don’t pretend to know the law here but frankly wouldn’t push it.

I have 2 hidden light bars behind the grill operated by BOTH an sPod and dash switches. I only put in the dash switches because I liked the looks. But the sPod touch screen is really fantastic and can turn off/on simultaneously. The sPod is expensive but IMHO worth every penny

Just my opinion

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Old 03-06-2020, 01:40 AM #9
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I have 2 rigid pods and a cheap hidden light bar that is tied to my high beams with a switch and relay. Super easy to do. Just wire the relay, lights, and switch as you normally would, but run the trigger wire from the switch to the hot wire of your high beams at the bulb end. I used a cheap adapter so I did not have to tap into my factory wiring. With this configuration, I can run my high beams as normal. When my switch is activated, the lights will turn on when I turn on my high beams and will turn off once the high beams are turned off. I honestly rarely use it.

You will also pass inspections, if that's a thing for you, with this setup. Just make sure that the switch is off before the inspection.
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Old 03-06-2020, 02:42 AM #10
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You just don't want to add things to existing circuits for a couple of reasons. As already stated there may be issues with it being legal and if the circuit fails somehow, it could cause the factory lights to fail as well. Also, you really need to know what the current draw of this light bar is before connecting it; so as to insure you are using the proper fuse and wire size.
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:13 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelkins View Post
I have 2 rigid pods and a cheap hidden light bar that is tied to my high beams with a switch and relay. Super easy to do. Just wire the relay, lights, and switch as you normally would, but run the trigger wire from the switch to the hot wire of your high beams at the bulb end. I used a cheap adapter so I did not have to tap into my factory wiring. With this configuration, I can run my high beams as normal. When my switch is activated, the lights will turn on when I turn on my high beams and will turn off once the high beams are turned off. I honestly rarely use it.

You will also pass inspections, if that's a thing for you, with this setup. Just make sure that the switch is off before the inspection.
This is how I've done it in the past. Your having no issue with the DRL's turning the relay on?
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:43 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrtoy View Post
This is how I've done it in the past. Your having no issue with the DRL's turning the relay on?
No. I also keep the switch off unless I plan to use them.
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Old 03-07-2020, 01:18 PM #13
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Thanks for the replays. My light bar did come with a harness (Ridig) so I'll use it instead of my original plan of just tapping into the wires to the hi-beam bulb.
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Old 03-07-2020, 02:31 PM #14
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on the early trucks the DRL's are independent of the headlights so I triggered my LED driving lights off the high beams. I do have a switch for them but I just leave it on. They come on automatically with the high beams and shut off with them also. I do use them pretty much all the time I use my high beams. I have had regular independently switched driving lights in the past. After not being able to get to the switch quick enough when a car was coming and getting flashed a few times I pretty much stopped using them altogether. If you're truly going to ONLY use them off road that's another thing entirely. I had some lights wired exactly like I have on my 11 on a 00 4Runner my now ex wife drove for 10 years. That had DRL's that were the high beams on 1/2 power. And yep they triggered the driving lights and she drove around with them on ALL the time.
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Old 03-07-2020, 05:45 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dade73 View Post
I would advise against it all together. Run a separate switch with a relay.

Here is why: In some states its illegal to have more then 4 forward facing lights on at a time. Also I am pretty sure the light is not DOT approved, and or will violate some other on the road light law.

SPods systems are nice. You can alsouse push switches that fit into the factory blanks, so you don't need a whole spod system.
Actually FMVSS 108 only allows for two lights to be on at a time (i.e. both headlights or both highbeams) and several states do not allow auxiliary lights to be on the road uncovered, meaning they must be physically covered.
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