03-11-2020, 02:58 PM
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#1
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upgrading skids
I have decided to upgrade the skid plates on my 4R. I am looking at RCI since they currently have a 15% discount and reasonable shipping. Initially I plan to order the full skid set (engine, trans,transfer case) and the A arm skids. I am stuck on choosing aluminum or steel. The steel clearly is stronger, but at a 25% weight disadvantage as well as potential rust makes the aluminum consideration worthy. My off road trips will be enough to justify these, but I am looking to see what others RCI owners chose and why. As far as intended use, no rock crawling or tackling major ledges.
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03-11-2020, 03:02 PM
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#2
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I think it depends on your use. For me, aluminum for sure, but I'm worried about rust and I'm mostly "bashing" snow and sticks.
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03-11-2020, 03:09 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaWhiskey
I have decided to upgrade the skid plates on my 4R. I am looking at RCI since they currently have a 15% discount and reasonable shipping. Initially I plan to order the full skid set (engine, trans,transfer case) and the A arm skids. I am stuck on choosing aluminum or steel. The steel clearly is stronger, but at a 25% weight disadvantage as well as potential rust makes the aluminum consideration worthy. My off road trips will be enough to justify these, but I am looking to see what others RCI owners chose and why. As far as intended use, no rock crawling or tackling major ledges.
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I live in KS, so take it from me, don't worry about rust on steel skid plates. I've painted mine once in 3 years, with lots of scrapes on them, and just have very light surface rust on the scrapes. Remember they're 3/16 steel so it'll take years and years and years for them to actually rust through if you don't respray them every 5 years.
I'm still not convinced you should actually buy skids if you don't rock crawl at all. Maybe it depends on your lift amount and tire size but dropping a grand on skids, a t-case is what, $300 to replace?
Keep in mind you're adding weight to the lowest part of the vehicle so you'll actually be lowering the center of gravity. It's the best place to put the weight compared to something like a roof rack.
I guess my vote is for just doing the transmission skid from steel. Buying something else with the savings.
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03-11-2020, 03:09 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaWhiskey
I have decided to upgrade the skid plates on my 4R. I am looking at RCI since they currently have a 15% discount and reasonable shipping. Initially I plan to order the full skid set (engine, trans,transfer case) and the A arm skids. I am stuck on choosing aluminum or steel. The steel clearly is stronger, but at a 25% weight disadvantage as well as potential rust makes the aluminum consideration worthy. My off road trips will be enough to justify these, but I am looking to see what others RCI owners chose and why. As far as intended use, no rock crawling or tackling major ledges.
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If you're not scraping your belly much I'd go with aluminum. No need for extra strength if you're only worried about incidental hits. You'll appreciate the weight savings
And skip the A-arm skids. They're pointless overkill
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03-11-2020, 03:16 PM
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#5
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I went with aluminum, but that was after I got a lift so I scrape a lot less now than stock (stock height is not 9.6 as Toyota claims by the way). If you are not going to be doing a lot of rock crawling, aluminum is the way to go. I recommend still getting the front skid powdercoated (or you can just paint the front part with a rattle can), otherwise the aluminum will start to look tacky after a while. The rest I wouldn't worry about powdercoating. I didn't bother with the lower control arm skids, I didn't think that would be an issue even if they were hit.
Otherwise, just make sure you put anti-seize on all the bolts when installing.
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03-11-2020, 03:31 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
I'm still not convinced you should actually buy skids if you don't rock crawl at all. Maybe it depends on your lift amount and tire size but dropping a grand on skids, a t-case is what, $300 to replace?
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I'd rather have the cheap insurance than risk needing to be rescued from the middle of some desert somewhere with a busted t-case.
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03-11-2020, 03:43 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp.vegas
I'd rather have the cheap insurance than risk needing to be rescued from the middle of some desert somewhere with a busted t-case.
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A buddy I've wheeled with has an FJ without aftermarket skids. He's taken it everywhere I've gone, and everywhere an IFS FJ could go. The only time he hurt his T-case was from sending too much torque through it, cracking it near the input shaft, and even then he JB-welded it and drove it 800 miles home. If you managed to break a t-case in the middle of a desert without doing any tough obstacles you are obviously doing something very wrong. BTW my buddy paid $100 for his new t-case.
I just don't see the use-case for aluminum skids. You either use your skids or you don't. 1/8" steel is a much better and cheaper option than aluminum.
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Last edited by Inv4drZm; 03-11-2020 at 03:54 PM.
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03-11-2020, 03:51 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
A buddy I've wheeled with has an FJ without aftermarket skids. He's taken it everywhere I've gone, and everywhere an IFS FJ could go. The only time he hurt his T-case was from sending too much torque through it, cracking it near the input shaft, and even then he JB-welded it and drove it 800 miles home. If you managed to break a t-case in the middle of a desert without doing any tough obstacles you are obviously doing something very wrong. BTW my buddy paid $100 for his new t-case.
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Shit happens, simple as that. My back yard is Death Valley and the Mojave desert. Wheeling here is an exercise in surviving the shit that does happen and preparedness is a thing. That road you came in on a week ago could be gone today, washed out from some flash flood or what have you. Skids are cheap insurance and I've always gone with aluminum because I'm not dragging my truck over rocks on purpose but if I have/need to, then I won't sweat it.
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03-11-2020, 03:54 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
If you're not scraping your belly much I'd go with aluminum. No need for extra strength if you're only worried about incidental hits. You'll appreciate the weight savings
And skip the A-arm skids. They're pointless overkill
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I guess I don't see the overkill part, these should help with possible cv boot punctures shouldn't they?
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03-11-2020, 03:56 PM
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#10
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I went with their aluminum for weight savings.
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03-11-2020, 03:57 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
I live in KS, so take it from me, don't worry about rust on steel skid plates. I've painted mine once in 3 years, with lots of scrapes on them, and just have very light surface rust on the scrapes. Remember they're 3/16 steel so it'll take years and years and years for them to actually rust through if you don't respray them every 5 years.
I'm still not convinced you should actually buy skids if you don't rock crawl at all. Maybe it depends on your lift amount and tire size but dropping a grand on skids, a t-case is what, $300 to replace?
Keep in mind you're adding weight to the lowest part of the vehicle so you'll actually be lowering the center of gravity. It's the best place to put the weight compared to something like a roof rack.
I guess my vote is for just doing the transmission skid from steel. Buying something else with the savings.
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Good info. it seems to me that too much protection is better than too little. The aluminum set weighs 70lbs, the steel 120lbs. The difference isn't that significant in the general scheme of things.
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03-11-2020, 04:01 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp.vegas
Shit happens, simple as that. My back yard is Death Valley and the Mojave desert. Wheeling here is an exercise in surviving the shit that does happen and preparedness is a thing. That road you came in on a week ago could be gone today, washed out from some flash flood or what have you. Skids are cheap insurance and I've always gone with aluminum because I'm not dragging my truck over rocks on purpose but if I have/need to, then I won't sweat it.
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I've literally been trapped by a flash flood before with a group of Toyotas. We waited 30 minutes and drove through the water once it died down. Didn't see any rocks that were moved
Buy whatever makes you sweat less, I just don't see how 1/8" steel has any disadvantage to aluminum.
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2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
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03-11-2020, 04:08 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaWhiskey
Good info. it seems to me that too much protection is better than too little. The aluminum set weighs 70lbs, the steel 120lbs. The difference isn't that significant in the general scheme of things.
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If you're like me, you'll eventually want bigger tires, more lift, more capability. Steel will be good to have for the long term.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
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03-11-2020, 04:12 PM
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#14
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I personally use an aluminum front skid and steel transmission and tcase (+ Diff skid). Main reason I went steel for the trans/tcase was I like to rock crawl and was worried about slipping off rocks. Can control the front pretty well but not the middle lol.
Been driving all over Death Valley (not particularly difficult terrain) and haven't felt the need yet for having All Steel vs Aluminum yet. Will probably replace the front skid with steel if I land on it one more time lol.
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Last edited by SpeedyKevin; 03-11-2020 at 04:17 PM.
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03-11-2020, 04:31 PM
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#15
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One may not be rock crawling, but objects can still be thrown up into the undercarriage. Surprisingly large and hard objects.
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