Hi all,

I've got a '16 SR5 with 126,500 on it... bought it a year ago with 97,000 on it from a Ford dealer... the previous owner still had their Jiffy lube receipts in the glove box so Oil change was always done on time but I dont know about anything else.

Just bought a 6x12 enclosed cargo trailer to start hauling wood/drywall/lawn equip. around and figured I should get the truck ready to go with it's maintenance.

I've changed the oil at every 10k miles but have not done anything else. After some searching I found this maintenance interval list from pDubs in another thread:

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Engine oil every 6-8k miles. Synthetic 0w-20, Toyota oil filter, new drain plug gasket.

Grease all driveline zerk fittings. Every 15k miles

Retorque propeller shaft bolt. Every 15k miles

Engine air filter. Every 30k miles. Pn# 17801-38051

Cabin air filter. Every 30k miles. Pn# 87139-yzz08

Brake fluid. Every 2 years. DOT 3 synthetic

Spark plugs. Denso SK16HR11. Every 120k

Coolant. Replace at 100k. Then every 50k after. Toyota Super long life coolant. 11.1 quarts

Front differential fluid- mobil1 75w-90. 1.6 quarts. Every 50k
Rear differential fluid- mobil1 75w-90. 3 quarts - every 50k
Transfer case fluid. Redline 75w85 gl5 or Toyota 75w oil. 1.1 quarts every 50k
Parts:
Transfer Case Fill Gasket 90430-18008
Transfer Case Drain Gasket 90430-18008
Front Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Front Differential Drain Gasket 90430-24003
Rear Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Rear Differential Drain Gasket 12157-10010

Power steering fluid- Synthetic DEX III ATF. Empty reservoir and refill with fresh fluid every other oil change.

Transmission fluid flush- every 90k miles.
11.3qt Toyota genuine ATF WS

Serpentine belt- Bando 7pk2150 Every 100k miles

PCV valve. Every 100k miles. Part #12204-31030
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I have a few questions on this list.

1. Greasing the Driveline Zerk fittings. What type of grease gun and grease should we use, and are there any special fittings that we need for the gun to connect?

2. Changing the brake fluid. Do you guys use a pump for this or just do the "tighten, push pedal, tighten... repeat" process at every caliper?

3. Coolant change, do you use a pump for this? Or is there a drain plug somewhere to get it all out?

4. Power steering fluid, is there a way to flush the whole system? As i'm sure this has never been done on this 4runner.

5. Are there any other special tools other then a grease gun and wrenches and whatnot that I should get for doing this work? My old Honda, all you needed was a 10mm wrench and you could dissemble and reassemble the entire car. lol

I'll have more q's as I go down this list and get things done. Seems a bit time consuming so I have to space this out.

Thanks all for the help!

I did all of this on my '13 FJ Cruiser but it's all the same since they share drivetrains. I haven't had my '19 T4R long enough to do any of these jobs but they are the same. Find yourself a copy of the '10 T4R service manual .pdf as most of it applies to all years of 5th gens. Also, I change my oil every 5k miles.

1. Standard grease gun with a flex hose is what I use. Spider joints use Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2 while the slip yoke uses Molybdenum-disulfide lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2 or lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2. I actually got 2 grease guns so I can use the differnent types of grease without swapping it out. They are cheap enough from Walmart or amazon to get 2. I lubed the slip yoke with each oil change, and lubed the spider joints every other oil change.

2. I use the "tighten, push pedal, tighten... repeat" method with a helper (my daughter). Works just fine, was easy, and didn't require buying a pump. Do a search for the procedure because the rear brakes are slightly different. It's all easy pretty.

3. No pump. There is a block drain on either side of the engine block. I could only find the passenger side drain so I skipped the driver side. IIRC 1/4" ID clear tubing fits over end the block drain so you can have the end of it sitting in a drain pan out of the way and not make a mess. There is a bolt that you turn to open/close the drain. The radiator has its own drain valve of course. This will get most of it out, enough anyway. I didn't flush it with water or anything, just drain and refill with new. Follow the procedure in the service manual for "burping" the system.

4. Yes there is, and it's pretty easy. Jack the front up so the front tires are off the ground. Disconnect the return line to the PS reservoir (it's the hose higher up on the reservoir) and stick the loose end in a drain bottle, etc, and plug the outlet on the reservoir with something (I used a rubber vacuum cap). Have someone sit in the driver seat and turn ignition on but DO NOT START THE ENGINE (if you start the engine the PS pump will pump the fluid out very quickly). Have them work the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off and it will manually pump out the old PS fluid while you monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it filled. Do not let the PS reservoir run empty as it will let air into the system. Continue until clean fluid starts pumping out. Reconnect the return line to the reservoir and you're done.

5. I bought a specific 10mm brake bleed wrench to make it a little easier. For draining the fluids I bought various lengths and sizes of tubing to help. Other than that I just have one of those Craftsman 200 piece tool sets. I got a set of those metric ratcheting box wrenches from Harbor Freight that has come in handy. A proper oil filter wrench too.

Jiffy Lube doing a proper oil change without ****ing shit up will never happen. I would never buy a car from someone that had their car serviced by them.

All Fluids Guide: Beginner Fluid Maintenance

This is everything you need to know about ALL fluids!