03-21-2020, 12:29 AM
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#16
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Crystal River, FL
Posts: 984
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Crystal River, FL
Posts: 984
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FWIW, maintenance on all of my Toyotas not including routine PMs:
1981 Celica - sold at 178,000 miles in near-mint condition. 1 wheel bearing, 1 muffler and an alternator
1988 Camry - sold at 205,000 miles, tranny sometimes missed 2nd gear. No significant maintenance
1990 T4R - sold to friend at 215,000 miles. He got rid of it with over 400,000. Head gasket (recall, no charge), timing belt (preventive), water pump (preventive) , front axle boots. Used frequently to tow pop-up camper and bass boat.
1998 Camry - scrapped at 210,000 miles after accident. No significant maintenance
2000 T4R - sold at 152,000 in near mint condition (market was too good not to buy an '08), front axle boots, MAF sensor (my fault. Over-oiled air filter). Used frequently to tow bass boat.
2008 T4R - still own it with 182,000 miles. Front axle boot, front wheel hubs. Still used as primary tow vehicle.
2019 T4R - only 2500 mile's. Still in diapers.
I provide that to indicate how bullet proof these Yotas are. I've owned 6 or more domestic vehicles of which my maintenance cost for any ONE exceeded what I've spent on ALL my Toyotas. And I wouldnt hesitate to jump in my 2008 T4R right now and tow cross country. I never felt that comfortable with ANY domestic vehicle I've owned.
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Rick
'90 T4R - sold at 205,000 miles
'00 T4R - sold at 152,000 miles
'08 Sport - 178,000 miles & still going strong
'19 ORP - just over 6,000 mi. (garage queen, like my '07 Mustang)
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03-21-2020, 01:24 PM
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#17
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Bahamas
Posts: 430
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Bahamas
Posts: 430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda pc
I personally wouldnt upgrade or pay that much for a 4runner those years. Just buy cheap 3rd gen and fix as you go along.. Dont think theres that much of difference or improvements to be worth $10k+ or more.
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If you ever replace the shocks/struts go with OEM. I made that mistake with a new GM Jimmy went AM - and ride was awful.
And Yes. Toyotas build the best cars and SUVs OAT. Bought my daughter a new Camry in 2015, and she has had no issues.
Last edited by Captsolo; 03-21-2020 at 01:27 PM.
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03-23-2020, 09:50 AM
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#18
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 286
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 286
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Thanks for all the replies, everyone.
I have zero qualms regarding the general, and gold-standard, reliability that comes with Toyota.
Having bought my first third gen in 2012 with 190k on the odometer and taking it for another 100k with only minimal issues, I was sold.
-Regular oil changes
-plugs and wires
-TB, water pump, etc (preventative)
-U-joint (was going bad in Sacramento in 2017 while I was in the middle of a 7000 mile road trip...fortunately Ray from Zen Automotive fixed me up fast!)
-O2 sensor
That was it.
Unfortunately I feel a little gun-shy, probably unreasonably so, because this most recent 3rd gen of mine just went down with a cracked flexplate while I was heading from Ohio to Florida to see my grandpa. Got stranded in Columbia, SC for two days. Thus, the story behind why I'm asking about things for which to check while looking into 5th gens.
Thanks again!
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--'00--Red--295k--Auto--SOLD --'99--Green--204k--5spd--TOTALED --'00--Black--165k--Auto--TRADED --'14--Blue--250k--Trail Edition
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03-23-2020, 01:19 PM
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#19
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 143
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 143
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I’ve put 175k on my 2012 TE.
The passenger rear caliper had to be replaced at 130k because of contaminated fluid. Other than that nothing else to speak of. I don’t see any major issues down the line.
These are phenomenal vehicles, mine won’t ever be sold.
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03-23-2020, 02:27 PM
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#20
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 96
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 96
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Just my opinion...these trucks are pretty dang bulletproof, but if I was buying a higher mileage 2010-2013, 100k miles or more, I would make sure every fluid had been changed at least once, including transmission. If you find one that the previous owner has done at least that, I would have no problem predicting 250k+.
For reference, I have a 2010 TE with 125k miles. I've been obsessive with routine maintenance and mine still runs like the day I bought it.
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03-23-2020, 05:28 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 509
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 509
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2012 with 140k here. Most faithful vehicle I have ever owned. And I have also owned a Toyota before. But it wasn't made by tiny Japanese hands, it was a Sequoia and was quite frustrating.
Normally with 140k I'd be moving on but I just can't part with this one. I have no doubt that I could keep it for my son to drive in 6 years if I wanted to. Best vehicle I have ever owned.
Routine maintenance, that's it. Fluids, belt, pulleys, brakes, tires, filters, spark plugs. I did have to do both front brake calipers recently but that is a Northeast thing from the salt/rust permanently lodging the slide pins into place.
Still running around on all original suspension, steering, driveline and axle components even and people comment how it rides and drives like new.
Last edited by kenwilliams0803; 03-23-2020 at 07:44 PM.
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03-23-2020, 07:42 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: East Bay
Posts: 4,584
Real Name: Sparky
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: East Bay
Posts: 4,584
Real Name: Sparky
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Not sure how everyone is using theirs, but I had a 2013 TE in Colorado.
Rear brake pads at 60k, front at 75k.
Driver's side CV axle out at 90k, replaced both. Front LCAs rusted frozen at around the same time.
Had a 5100 Bilstein Toytec lift installed at 20k which was totally trashed at 90k and went with Icons with external reservoirs.
ALL door locks have gremlins, driver's side only works with key/manually.
HVAC blower motor went out around 60k, is going out again.
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Old and (c)rusty.
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03-24-2020, 12:38 AM
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#23
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vegas
Posts: 325
Real Name: Joe-Runner
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vegas
Posts: 325
Real Name: Joe-Runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruiser
Had a 5100 Bilstein Toytec lift installed at 20k which was totally trashed at 90k and went with Icons with external reservoirs.
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What exactly went wrong with the lift? I just bought a used 2013 TE w/ the same lift/miles. Interested in learning what to look out for.
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2021 ORP, Naut Blue, sunroof, Gunmetal TRD wheels w/265 Falkens, NFAB steps, 1.75" 5100s front, 1" Cornfed spacer rear / 2̶0̶1̶3̶ T̶r̶a̶i̶l̶, K̶D̶S̶S̶, / 2̶0̶1̶7̶ O̶R̶P̶
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03-24-2020, 01:51 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: East Bay
Posts: 4,584
Real Name: Sparky
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: East Bay
Posts: 4,584
Real Name: Sparky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe-Runner
What exactly went wrong with the lift? I just bought a used 2013 TE w/ the same lift/miles. Interested in learning what to look out for.
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3/4 shocks blown/leaking. Not uncommon given heavy use.
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03-30-2020, 12:56 AM
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#25
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vegas
Posts: 325
Real Name: Joe-Runner
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vegas
Posts: 325
Real Name: Joe-Runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruiser
3/4 shocks blown/leaking. Not uncommon given heavy use.
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Just checked and I think one of my back shocks has a leak FML
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2021 ORP, Naut Blue, sunroof, Gunmetal TRD wheels w/265 Falkens, NFAB steps, 1.75" 5100s front, 1" Cornfed spacer rear / 2̶0̶1̶3̶ T̶r̶a̶i̶l̶, K̶D̶S̶S̶, / 2̶0̶1̶7̶ O̶R̶P̶
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