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Old 04-04-2020, 11:07 PM #16
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When I had the original starter battery I went the Goal Zero Yeti 400 lithium route, I could get about 18 hours of run time once the car turned off and would charge the goal zero when driving with the inverter in the back. I then upgraded to a GZ Yeti 1400 for longer camping trips, could get about 4-5 days. When my starter battery finally bit the dust I switched to a deep cycle stock size agm battery (X2 from batteries plus bulbs). Once switching I ran the ARB wiring from the battery to the back. I can get about 2 nights off of it that way.

For the OP, from my experience I would use the OEM battery with ARB harness until your battery needs replacing (but invest in a good jumper pack). I love my GZ products. I prefer them to a dual battery just because of the interchangeability (I can run the fridge and have reserve power in any vehicle) and flexibility of them. I still bring them for redundancy on longer camping trips and as backup power for our trailer (as well as hurricane preparedness here in Florida). Wiring straight from the battery makes putting the fridge in as easy as loading a cooler. If you don’t spend extended time off-grid it will be the most cost effective and user friendly way of setting it up.
If you want more details on all of my setups and wiring tutorial they are all in my thread linked in the signature below.
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Old 04-05-2020, 04:55 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakeA View Post
I use a Jackery 500 to power my Dometic fridge and just charge the Jackery with the 12 volt outlet in the back. That way, no need to install a 2nd battery or run a new cable to the back from your existing battery. When I’m camping, I charge the Jackery with a 100 watt solar panel.
Which fridge do you have and what is his power consumption?

Will you be able to have enough power if you are 6-7 days stopped when the jackery 500 and solar panel recharging it all day, every day?

I want to be able to run a 65L fridge (Rated 14.9AH/24 hours / 2.7A Avg. running current) for 7 days without the truck running.
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Old 04-05-2020, 07:24 PM #18
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Instead of a jackery (or GZ/rockpals/whatever), if you have a 100W solar panel just replace the starting battery with a larger AGM and you should be able to run the fridge for days, almost indefinitely if weather cooperates.

My 40L fridge runs over 2 days with just the single AGM battery, with the 100W panel it can run almost indefinitely if sunny, and multiple days if overcast.

This is with the fridge on the highest shutoff voltage, if I change it to the medium setting it would last even longer (I prefer not to cycle the battery though if I dont have a specific need to)

The price of a goal zero could get you a good quality AGM and solar panel setup
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Old 04-05-2020, 11:27 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD_T4R View Post
Which fridge do you have and what is his power consumption?

Will you be able to have enough power if you are 6-7 days stopped when the jackery 500 and solar panel recharging it all day, every day?

I want to be able to run a 65L fridge (Rated 14.9AH/24 hours / 2.7A Avg. running current) for 7 days without the truck running.
I have the newest model Dometic CFX3 35. I haven’t had it out on an extended trip yet, but have tested it in my driveway (when sunny...not always going to be though, obviously) and it looks like it will keep up.
Planning on a trip in July, so I’ll be able to test it in real world conditions then.
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Old 04-06-2020, 05:24 AM #20
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I’m a real estate photographer and videographer working mostly out if my vehicle. I use the goal zero products and love them. My most recent GZ purchase was the yeti 200x. It’s the perfect size to sit right behind the wheel well of the 4Runner (against the subwoofer enclosure) and can charge 2 drone batteries, drone remote, camera battery, and strobe battery all at the same time. Heck, it even charges big V mount batteries for my hot lights and cine cam. Best part is that when I want to dump a mini mag to the laptop or do some editing away from the truck, its easy to grab as it only weighs a few pounds. I mounted a 100watt GZ panel on the roof that keeps the 200 topped off.

There are those who bash goal zero for being expensive, and I get it, but I’ve also had competing products that aren’t nearly as solidly built or feature rich. You get what you pay for, and since I’m using these products professionally I’d rather buy something that fits my needs and that I can trust.

Could I build a solution out of some old mobility scooter batteries with nothing more than a beer and a soldering iron?...maybe, but really? Don’t start a fire.
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Old 04-06-2020, 10:17 AM #21
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the competing products are as solidly built
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Old 04-06-2020, 12:31 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WD_T4R View Post
W
I want to be able to run a 65L fridge (Rated 14.9AH/24 hours / 2.7A Avg. running current) for 7 days without the truck running.
You might want to check your spec sheet and confirm that 14.9Ah isn't at 24 volts because that sounds optimistically low in the power consumption department for 12 volts.

If it is for 24v you will need to double the amp hours for 12v

I have metered the ARB 50 for 24 hours and it uses twice that, and that fridge is already very efficient. (350 watts hours / 24 hours @ 75F ambinet)
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:09 PM #23
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For the folks who are using the Jackery in passthrough, is the Jackery plugged into the AC or cigarette outlet in the cargo area? If I understand it correctly, you have to remember to press the dash switch to activate the outlets in the back every time you get in the vehicle, right?
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:54 PM #24
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Originally Posted by Chilow View Post
For the folks who are using the Jackery in passthrough, is the Jackery plugged into the AC or cigarette outlet in the cargo area? If I understand it correctly, you have to remember to press the dash switch to activate the outlets in the back every time you get in the vehicle, right?

We use a Dometic and Jackery combo. The 12V outlet in the back is on when the engine is running. 120V needs to be turned on. Just use the 12V to charge the Jackery and then either one for the fridge. I prefer the 12V for fridge too
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:59 PM #25
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We use a Dometic and Jackery combo. The 12V outlet in the back is on when the engine is running. 120V needs to be turned on. Just use the 12V to charge the Jackery and then either one for the fridge. I prefer the 12V for fridge too
Thanks. I don't have the Jackery yet so I cant tinker with it in person. Sounds like it comes with two charging cables. One for the traditional wall outlet and one for the cigarette outlet. You plugged the Jackery into the rear cigarette and then plugged the same Dometic cigarette into Jackery? Any concerns with voltage drop? I heard the rear power outlets have thin wires.
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Old 09-03-2020, 02:21 PM #26
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Thanks. I don't have the Jackery yet so I cant tinker with it in person. Sounds like it comes with two charging cables. One for the traditional wall outlet and one for the cigarette outlet. You plugged the Jackery into the rear cigarette and then plugged the same Dometic cigarette into Jackery? Any concerns with voltage drop? I heard the rear power outlets have thin wires.

You get one 12V and one 120V cord with both the Jackery and the Dometic. Jackery gets its input power from the 12V in the rear of the 4Runner and the Dometic gets its input from the 12V outlet on the Jackery. I have had no issues. We end up getting to our destination with 100% battery on the Jackery. Can't comment on the exact voltage that is going to the rear outlet because I haven't had any issues that needed to be sorted out. The Jackery is really there so I don't have to turn the fridge back on every time I start the vehicle up.
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Old 09-03-2020, 02:37 PM #27
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You get one 12V and one 120V cord with both the Jackery and the Dometic. Jackery gets its input power from the 12V in the rear of the 4Runner and the Dometic gets its input from the 12V outlet on the Jackery. I have had no issues. We end up getting to our destination with 100% battery on the Jackery. Can't comment on the exact voltage that is going to the rear outlet because I haven't had any issues that needed to be sorted out. The Jackery is really there so I don't have to turn the fridge back on every time I start the vehicle up.
Thank you! That's what I'm trying to avoid doing too. I just want to set it forget it type of thing.
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Old 09-03-2020, 03:25 PM #28
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I have an NrgGo 400 portable power pack that I use to run my Massimo 50 Kooler. The NrgGo has a readout for input and output simultaneously so I can monitor exactly what is going on with it. For reference, I get about 65W to 80W input from the 120V rear outlet while driving. I get between 8W and 14W input from the rear 12V outlet using the OEM wiring while driving. There is a huge difference there! My understanding is that the 12V system is capable of much more output than that, but is hampered by the thin wires. The ARB kit is a worthwhile investment for anyone who wants higher output or always-on capability.
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Old 09-03-2020, 05:02 PM #29
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I’m running the exact setup that NB17Limited is using, and it works just fine with my Jackery500 and Dometic CFX3-35. You CAN charge the Jackery using the 110 volt, but you have to remember to push the dash switch, so I just use the 12 volt. I use a GZ 100 suitcase panel at the campsite to charge the Jackery.
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